Unwanted 1976 Time Capsule
OneRidgeOff
5 years ago
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Prepare for Swine Flu
Comments (60)There were roughly 30 deaths in the U.S. from Guillain-Barre syndrome in 1976. GBS can be caused by a variety of things (typically infection), which stimulate the body to produce antibodies not just against the infection, but which also attack the nerves, producing (usually) temporary weakness and paralysis. It's thought that many of the GBS cases that year were linked to the swine flu vaccine. Nobody knows exactly why, since the flu vaccines used in the decades since 1976 have not caused the problem. I made an incorrect statement earlier in this thread about the incidence of GBS during the 1976 swine flu - it was much less common than the figure I gave: "In all, the vaccination resulted in nearly one extra case of Guillain-Barré for every 100,000 people immunized, which would translate into roughly 450 cases for the 45 million people who got the shot." Obviously, even those numbers were unacceptable (particularly when the flu strain in '76 did not turn out to be an especially dangerous one). Given the continued advancements in vaccine science and the good health record since 1976, I'd expect far fewer side effects from a 2009 vaccine, and given the choice between the vaccine and taking my chances with a full-blown deadly flu outbreak, I'd go for the vaccine, no question. apollog is dead on target, by the way, when he contrasts the risks of getting an immunization with a small quantity of killed virus, with the far, far greater hazard of having large amounts of virulent virus coursing through your system. Many of us have forgotten or never known what it's like to actually face a deadly epidemic of infectious disease in our community. When such a thing happens (and I hope it doesn't in this case), the current climate of alarmism about vaccines will change rapidly....See MoreSterilizing seed starting medium?
Comments (44)Lots of good comments & advice already given (notably by Fusion, Digdirt & Plantatus) to which I concur. I'll just try to add my 2 c's on a few points already discussed. "Sterilized compost is nothing like seed starting mix. As explained at least a couple of times above seed starting mix is composed of peat from peat bogs. The amount varies but is usually 60-80%. To that either perlite or vermiculite and a little lime is added. Then some sort of nutrient supplement is added to some, but not all, of the mixes." A commercial mix has been sold here whose main component is shredded bark; I've used it for several years, and am happy with the results. It would offer a good alternative for those who consider the use of peat to be the destruction of a non-renewable resource. "I still say I don't understand how some of the experts can jive their zeal against uber-big businesses having their fingers in seed companies, promote heirlooms and sustainability, talk about preparedness and self-sufficiency in the "just-in-case-it-all-comes-crashing-down" world and at the same time proclaim that nothing other than store-bought seed starting mix will work. At all. Ever." As I've read through this thread, that wasn't what I heard. What has been said is that you should start with a sterile medium... and provided that you sterilize a fertile soil or mix, the results can even be better than the sterile (but nutritionally weak) seed starting mixes sold commercially. Really, all of the other discussions - indoor versus outdoor, etc. - take a back seat to that issue. Fusion's experience with his own mix was a great example of what can be accomplished, and leaves the door open for a great deal of experimentation. Those who grow their crops in subsistence levels - and rely on them for sustenance - can't afford the chance of a complete loss before the plants even get in the ground. You try to minimize the risk to the greatest degree possible... and at present, the sterile mixes sold commercially are a very reliable way to do so. If those were not available, however, I think the people in question (self among them) would find alternatives - some of which have already been mentioned. My methods (in my climate) would likely differ from those in warmer zones. And if "it-all-comes-crashing-down", there would not only be no starter mix, but no power for lights or bottom heat. At that point, IMO, seed starting becomes something of a non-issue... I would be less concerned with forcing hot-weather plants (of relatively low nutritional value) to grow in my climate, and more concerned with growing nutrient-dense grains & root crops that don't require coddling to produce. "This is something I do [sterilizing containers], even though I always kind of wonder what the point is when I don't bother to sterilize the seed starting mixture. But it just seems to make good sense." Even when you start with sterile soil & containers, contamination can (and often does) occur through airborne spores; fans & dusty or damp locations can increase the chances of initial infection. When this occurs, there would likely only be a few plants affected, unless the container were enclosed (I recommend against those "mini-greenhouse" flats for that reason, they are fungus breeding grounds). But if you were to then start the next year with some containers already infected, it would be giving the pathogens a chance to develop & spread more quickly, and the losses would greater. I would add that the sterility of soil & container can be rendered moot, if the water used to dampen them - and the fingers & tools used during planting - are not also sterile. I use rubber gloves when planting, and RO filtered water or boiled rain water for seed starting. If I add an organic fertilizer to the water (which increases germination in old seed) I boil it before use. Once the plants are growing (and have their first true leaf) the sterility of water is probably less important. " I run a fan over my seedlings, and I spray with peroxide and water if I suspect any funny business, and I sprinkle with cinnamon, etc. and it seems to work. I grow very healthy seedlings that go on to be very healthy plants." I like the peroxide idea. It might be even more effective if it were used preventively (before symptoms occur) rather than correctively... it would be interesting to test that idea, and determine the dosage & periodicity that are most effective. It's worth mentioning, though, that peroxide also does not fit into a self-sustained philosophy. There might be other solutions (perhaps herbal teas) that would offer an alternative. For what its worth, I think Madhacktress & the original poster are on the right track philosophically... the vast majority of gardeners do not use sustainable methods for seed starting. If the economy were to go sour, there could be increased interest in this topic....See MoreAny Dog Allergy Solutions??? Help!!
Comments (17)Unbelievable! I'm just learning now the reason why my 11 yr/old female Westie almost died in March of 08. I'm in central FL and my second Westie's been treated for allergies to just about everything (didn't need an expensive allergy test to figure that out either). The usual treatments with prednisone and sometimes antibiotics were VERY temporary. Being my 2nd Westie I already knew to go as natural as possible with food and flea treatments. But sometimes you have to use the big guns. Back in March 08 I ended up at an expensive skin specialist. She did a skin biopsy as opposed to the useless skin scrape done my most vets and found she had demodectic mange and flea excrements. So she gave her a Comfortis pill and gave me Ivermectin liquid. After 2-3 days my dog was falling off while walking and totally disoriented and clingy. I took her to emergency clinic (of course she gets sick on a weekend). Vet said stop all meds and call specialist first thing Monday morning. I don't think the specialist knew about the interaction problem then, but she put her on Interceptor for 5 months and my Westie was perfect for 2 years. I never gave her Comfortis monthly (vet don't like this). Only at first sign of scratching(always cut in 4, mixed with can food). Our heavy flea season coincide with pollen season; Oct (trees shedding) and Feb through May (pollen etc) Whenever the temperature hovers between 70F-85F day time. I also spray my yard and surroundings with the inexpensive flea/tick citrus shampoo from Hartz for $2-$3 at Walmart. Use hose attachement container, pour whole bottle of shampoo plus water and spray. Pray it doesn't rain for a few days and don't water your lawn either. Don't let your pets walk on ANY type of pesticide for 4-5 days. Also, get rid of your carpets. Best is laminate floors with disposable/washable area rugs. My Comfortis dilemma is, I've been trying to narrow down on a new situation that started to occur with my Westie. At those time of the year mentioned above she has a YEAST overgrowth flair up. Her skin gets greasy, smelly and full of brown debris and dark areas where the most greasy. I've been doing extensive research on Yeast Imbalance here http://tinyurl.com/24792su Turns out MANY dogs diagnosed with allergies have actually Yeast overgrowth and whatever treatments used to treat allergies actually PROVOQUE a yeast overgrowth which cause more scratching, biting and paw licking. What a catch 22! Main causes of all this is, a weaken immune system caused by immune system suppressants like vaccinations (I only vaccinate this dog when younger), pesticides (who can avoid them totally?) and prednisone (which the specialist said never to give her again) among other things. Did Comfortis (dose of insecticide) suppressed my Westie's immun system so much so that it triggered a yeast overgrowth AND/OR pollens and other allergies caused the flair up? In any event I ordered natural Flea Treats and may or may not give her Comfortis again unless a bad flea infestation. Also looking into this new food by Wysong Epigen; it's starch free. My conclusion on Comfortis is; every dog is different. If a dog's immun system has been compromised in anyway shape or form by other triggering agents mentioned above, proceed carefully. Ordering online is cheaper but now vets tell me "Oh well it's been a while since we haven't seen your dog and would like to do exam (take my money again) before we can allow the prescription." Also very useful to treat skin ailments; most effective for me are: 1)Bathe with Malaseb shampoo (DO leave on 10 min), rinse thorougly, then pour over dog (and leave on) a suiting solution of 2-3 tbs of baking soda diluted in a gallon of warm water. DO NOT submerge dog, the parasites will gather around the neck area. Best is a dog rinsing hose in a shower. 2) Apply ANIMAX ointment on hot spots. (best ointment out of many) cheapest at vetdepot.com 3) Add immun booster supplement to dog food. Solid Gold Seameal is good but proceed slowly with SMALLER dosage or you'll come home to a house full of diarrhea. Keeping finger crossed, for May is always the worst for fleas that I won't have to use Comfortis but since she'll be on Seameal let's hope and pray for no adverse reaction....See MoreHornets in August: Trim with Foresight!
Comments (41)"between the big sniff and the big chomp." LOL Deanna, you always make me laugh! The last time a bird flew into my house, she ended up staying for eleven years. It was a lost roller pigeon who flew onto the porch, and into the house when I opened the front door. Unlike your bird, this one was looking for her lost loft, or a reasonable substitute. As far as the wasps, I'm glad to have them gone, but I ponder what I would have done had bees nested in my daylily bed rather than yellow jackets. Given the seriousness of the honeybees' decline, I would have probably tried to locate a bee-keeper willing to capture the hive and remove the bees to his own home. Had they been bumble bees I might have at least considered leaving their nest and just avoiding the area for the rest of the summer. I once had bumble bees build a nest under my back porch and had to call an exterminator to kill them. The bees had to travel right by my collie's favorite lounging area on the back porch to get into their hive, and he used to snap at them as they buzzed by. Once he caught one and was stung in his mouth. Thankfully he was not allergic or it could have killed him. I was never stung once, and my dog was stung only that one time when he snapped the bee out of mid-air, so I gained a lot of appreciation for these bees' sweet disposition. If I had had a snapping beast at my front door I would probably have retaliated, not withstanding the fact that the porch had been my dog's domain before the bees decided to co-opt it....See MoreOneRidgeOff
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