Proudmama: Yes, that's exactly what I'm looking for in a light maple. Puppy farms? Egads, just another category of purchases to feel guilty about.... I can't buy anything from China without a twinge of guilt either.... Ellen: Thanks for the insight into Amish business practices. I'm glad they've found a way to survive and still hold their belief system together. I admire those people for their lifestyle and discipline. Thanks again for all of the replies!

Hi, Jessie - The measurements for the LNT stools are: Seat - 9 x 17 1/2; Legs (widest part) - 14 1/2 x 17. If these are too big for you, there are similar ones at Ballard that are smaller and more squarish. I have linked those below. Well, thanks for asking about my RH Brightwood pendants. They are hung and look great, but they still don't have shades. You remember that I had gotten enclosed bell shades from Schoolhouse Electric in the 2.25 fitter size? (I wanted the enclosed shades because I was worried about the glare from exposed bulbs, since I was hanging them high above the table. RH doesn't have enclosed shades that small.) Trying to be environmentally conscious, I ordered the fixtures with the GU24 socket and 24W bulb, but did not think it through or do my research. As it turns out, I have yet to find a GU24 bulb that fits into the shade. (In fact, you have to go down to an 18W to even get a shade that will fit into a 2.25 GU24 socket, never mind the shade. RH is changing their site to not allow you to select GU24 in 2.25 fitter size with a 24W bulb.) I understand there are 13W and 9W bulbs out there, but I hate to order them without knowing the dimensions because they have mercury in them and are difficult to dispose of if they don't work, and with shipping returning them is a hassle and expensive. And these bulbs are so new that I am not finding them IRL. Plus, I am now also reading that the bulbs may not be safe with an enclosed shade! Anyway, I will keep you posted... Here is a link that might be useful: Ballard Stool

Looking at the leg of the table - you have what was mid-range stylish furniture in the late 1920s. They went in for those bulbous things on furniture in a big way during that decade. Mixed woods were common. You will find solid and/or veneer, either left visible as more than one variety, or stained/varnished to look like a single more expensive wood, usually mahogany or walnut because they are dark. They used multiple stains and colored varnishes, often more like a nearly opaque wood-colored paint. I've removed "mahogany" that was covering up blonde wood (ash or birch) Your choices are to live with it and enjoy the quirkiness of it or try to hide it because it wasn't what you thought you were getting. First: wipe it with mineral spirits and you will see approximately what a clear topcoat will give you ... It might be interesting. To lightly conceal it ... wipe on a medium toned penetrating oil-based stain (NOT a gel stain, not a water-based stain) followed by a clear topcoat. Minwax's oil-based stains can be wiped on and you wipe them off to control depth of color, building it up in layers. You will be able to see the grain differences. If you want a grainless table, one that is not of any apparent species, General finishes gel stains are easier to use than Minwax's. I wipe them on and then wipe most of it off so the grain shows, again using multiple coats. Painted on wiht a foam brush they are a close cousin of the wood-colored varnishes used in the 20s ... they cover it ALL. I would paint as the last resort.

Used/antique Iranian rugs on ebay. A real bargain bin, if your eye can sort through the real garbage. This one was about $300 with freight. Odd-size rugs like this one are bigger bargains, this is 5x11. Casey