If we are going to start to get critical of placement of individual specimens...that's a never ending road of murkiness that is going to create a boat load of hard feelings. There is no "right" or "wrong", there is what you would do or not do, and if it's what you would not do, since you are a smart, intelligent individual of incredible good taste and impeccable discernment, then all other options must be from surly, irascible characters of low moral fiber with unibrows and knuckles that drag on the pavement. ??? As far as a practical matter in answering the question at hand, you've got very little room, as pointed out by others. The cloistered corner is going to help you in that it offers protection, but there's very little space to provide anchoring points. You could drive stakes vertical and tie off to those, but you are going to have to drive those puppies in. Regardless, trying to get the roots re-established is going to be a long term proposition. For a couple of different reasons, I'd consider moving the tree. Second, you've got a weeping evergreen of some kind leaning over the walkway from the other side of the door. Since most needle conifers are notoriously tolerant of shade (hardly), this may be an opportunity in disguise. What's the shrub you are apparently trying to espallier against the wall? You've got a lot going on in a small space. There's nothing wrong with that. Trying to do the remedial work of staking and re-establishing this guy is going to take a while. And while you obviously have a lot of affection for what you have, considering this is a front entrance, I'd at the least consider moving/removal and beginning anew.

While weeping birch (Betula pendula) is a cold climate species cutleaf weeping birch (B. pendula 'Laciniata', sold incorrectly as 'Dalecarlica') seems particularly to need a cold winter to perform fully. Here irrigated plants in the hot and dry summers and cold winters east of the mountains look much better than most seen here on the cool and moist maritime side. Despite the coolness here native stands of native paper birch don't become a feature driving up the freeway until the yet cooler more northern part of western WA is reached. If you are able to prevail over the climate, perhaps you might still have borers show up and spoil your trees. Heat- and borer-resistant birches of other kinds are on the market, so you might try one of these if you experience failure with the current planting.

I feel ya about Norway maple seeds sprouting, RI. Many of the properties that I do maintenance at have one or more of these trees around, and true to their shade-tolerant maple heritage, the seedlings thereof come up in every hosta, daylily, or any other clump of landscape plant present. Truly frustrating to deal with. But I'm not hating on this tree generally. While it is certainly a problem in wooded areas due to its ability to outcompete many native trees, in the midst of the city, where this is not a problem, I still think it a good all around workhorse tree. Folks just have to know what they're gettin into when they plant one! Maybe mentioned already, but if you could source Taxus canadensis-not sure if it is even available-you'd have the pre-emminent low-growing shade tolerant understory conifer, plus be helping a threatened species survive. +oM

kcblu, First let me disclaim that I have no formal education in architecture, or horticulture. I apologize for any typos, or mistakes on the botanical names. Some friendly tips that us help you to consider for the future. When describing the area be detailed and concise. The type of shade is very important to determining the right type of plant. A bed that is located under or near a large shade tree is very different from being shaded by a tall building. The direction, or side of the house is also very important. Your soil type is crucial (topsoil, clay, sandy etc). Most importantly, what are your goals/preferences/wants. For example "I don't like gold color, I want something narrow with a max height of 6-7', I want it to be evergreen. In my experience I usually try keep people that are not active gardeners away from what I consider sensitive plants like rhododendron, holly and hemlock. Depending on your environment, many of these acid loving plants are picky about their soil, and exposure, and you don't seem like the type of person that wants plants that need a lot of attention to establish, and survive. As the bed exists I think the picea pungens 'glauca pendula' was a great suggestion for its durability, and slow growth. See also a named variety called 'the blues.' 'Glauca pendula' can sometimes have a more contorted structure (which many like myself enjoy for character that is unique to each plant) where 'the blues' has a stronger weeping habit and will remain more slender. Picea abies 'pendula' (see also 'frohburg' 'formanek' etc). Very similar plant but dark green. Options are endless as mentioned above. Myself I would plant chamaecyparis 'green arrow', but you might not want that kind of height. Try not to be overwhelmed by the project. When designing, I often want the customer to let me start with a blank slate, but as a homeowner, I understand budgets. Focus on one small project at a time that you can afford, and can physically achieve. I have to agree that removing the deciduous foundation plants, and planting green velvet boxwood in an arch, or L shape 5-6 feet from the house with a deciduous tree in the remaining open area is a viable option as well. You could go low with something like acer dissectum 'tamukeyama' (the best red weeping / cascading japanese maple in my opinion). Or something that could be maintained with an open / airy structure like cornus kousa, acer japonicum acontifolium / vitifolium, for color acer palmatum bloodgood / emperor one. Fagus s. tricolor / roseo marginata could work short term, but despite their slow growth may be problematic post 10-15 years. See also acer palmatum ryusen (can be staked to any height), and acer palmatum 'green cascade'. I like the idea of liquidambar 'slender silhouette, but you may not like that much height, and you would need some size elsewhere to balance the look. Tall and linear can really help with an entrance like yours. Local garden centers may offer free or affordable design services that can help you get a plan together that you can pick away at as funds become available. Please be courteous though, and do not abuse their services by shopping their prices at competitors if you like their design ideas. Most of all remember that this should be about having fun, and being proud of the end result.