given up for this year - but next year!!!
6 years ago
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- 6 years ago
- 6 years ago
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Giving up until next year
Comments (2)Attack the quackgrass and all weeds now with a complete kill with roundup. Hose end sprayer, kill everything except shrubs and trees of course. On or about August 15, rake it well, plant new lawn with the best Kentucky Blue Grass seeds you can find. Use starter fertilizer. Keep the area damp until germination and continue to water until established. Fertilize again mid-November. Next spring, your back yard will have the best grass on the block. Good luck with your new home and lawn. Fall is by far the best time for planting grass....See MoreRamping Up For Next Year
Comments (11)I'm also concerned about the Monarch, so I plan on harvesting Milkweed seed from home, work and the Research Park/Science Drive area restored prairies and distributing the seed around the country. I don't know where I'll be this time next year (it all depends on this winter) but I plan on planting more Liatris and Milkweed for the Monarchs if I choose to stay here in WI. I plan on starting Rue seed as a perennial host plant for the BST. Martha, Stinging Nettles and White Snakeroot (Eupatorium rugosa) do quite well in shade. Also, you can try Poke Milkweed (Asclepias exaltata) for the Monarch, although it seems to attract more rabbits here in my garden. (hopefully you have a gun and a bigger dog LOL). Another thing to consider is a butterfly feeder replete c overripe bananas and mangoes....See MoreGearing up for next year
Comments (7)I've taken some of my herb plants before (marsh mallow, agrimony while both were in bloom, etc.) - my mother plants (all of my mother plants are in containers) - it did help sell some but everyone wanted to by my mother plants --- I did move a bunch of the 4" up to gallons this fall for next year so they should easily sell when in bloom (I moved a few to 2 gallon as well) The price of organic soil, most people don't want to pay the little extra for the 2 gallons that I have to charge versus the conventional growers (yet they want the organic) I pay 150% more for organic soil versus the regular potting soil. I should get organic certified so I can call my plants 'organic' - although having no employees and creating more paperwork (plus the cost for certification) is something I do not relish - hard to keep up with what needs to be done as it is. Most of my market customers don't seem to care about my being certified - they know I grow according to the organic standards --- although it would definitely help sell at a little higher cost to my nursery customers if I were "officially organic" so they can call the plants organic. This next year I will seriously look into it....See MoreWriting off this year's season, when to divide for next year?
Comments (12)I agree, go for it, starting with the daylilies (I just did some of mine) but only if you are in an area that hasn't ikmposed a water restriction. I also divided up the Montauks as well, and I also did some of the hostas and anemones. Heat doesn't seem to be the main problem for us on Cape Ann - it's lack of water. If you can keep your plants moist, they will have plenty of time to get established, develop a root system, and store food for winter and early spring. I don't know about anyone else but I find that hostas and anemones always appear wilty for days to weeks after I transplant. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, I'm not quite sure, but they always do seem to bounce back and thrive. Despite the several weeks of vintense heat and little rain, and despite a modest watering ban, our garden did very well this year. We used SoilMoist to give us some leeway with the drought and it's been very, very effective. The thing to do is to get it down by the roots. I use a stray and herb funnel to do it. We went back and put some by all of our roses, shrubs, and perennials (about half of them so far) and when I plant anything now, we automatically use it. Between that and capturing water when it has rained, our gardens are looking pretty dandy, and although the top layer of garden soil is bone dry and hard, the roots are getting enough moisture from with the SoilMoist to sustain the plants....See MoreRelated Professionals
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