Jeffrey court riverwash is very similar to fireclay foggy morning. My local tile store had both on hand, and they were *very* close. Fireclay comes in a wide range of sizes. It's pricey, but absolutely gorgeous. I was also shopping for a tile like this. My short list included Senio Newport in Alabaster Craquele or Transparent White. And my very favorite was an italian tile I hadnt heard of before... I cant remeber the manuf name, and my quote just says Aspen Loft Bianco in White. It was a white tile, but with an interesting finish, almost metallic. Looked so nice with my marble-esque quartz counters. All of these were in the $11/sqft range. Here is the aspen loft bianco -

lmao. what Jan said! Although, I had to help out my guys who did my herringbone wood floor. it's the starting point where everyone gets messed up. after that, it's simple. Look up how to properly start a herringbone layout and read it. you need to use a speed square at the end of your tile in order to get the proper middle starting point. much easier to illustrate than trying to write it out here. This is how I showed my guys how to start it. see the blue tape w/the two lines? you have to start on the middle after you mark your corner. that's the only way you will get perfect even cuts on both ends. this is how most do it, and it's not correct IF you want perfectly symmetrical left/right borders. All he's done is set the corner of the tile on the line. doing it like this will leave you w/one side smaller than the other: see how the sides of the window don't match? this is what you don't want. your tile guy should be doing a dry layout in order to determine where he starts so he doesn't get this look or these tiny triangles. Again,,,see how the ends don't match below? the right has longer tiles than the left edge. that's because of the way he started his first tile. And don't do these vertical tiles for your edging. get proper bullnose tiles, pencil liner or a Schluter edge. This is a layout board of my herringbone for my shower. took a few hours in order to get this almost perfect. since this was an odd size, and the tiles were even at 3x12, it couldn't be perfect. the right bottom corner triangle is the only portion that doesn't match. luckily, it's not readily visible! Even the subway tiles are perfectly matched. this layout took hours to get exact, even around the niche. 2x6your 3x9 will be 1/3 larger. 3x9 is a good size for a backsplash. this is a regular 3x6. again, a 3x9 will give you 1/3 longer.

I've been going back and forth on this same topic for the white ceramic subway tile I'll be installing as a backsplash in my kitchen. I'm using a 2"x4" mosaic. The problem is they don't make matching bullnose pieces. I can get them in bigger sizes and try and cut them down with a wet saw, but they're thicker than the mosaic (1/4" vs. 5/16"). I'll have some areas where the edge of the tile is open (i.e. doesn't terminate into a wall or cabinet). For those edges, I really just want a matching 2"x4" bullnose piece with the bullnose on the short edge. In the upper corner, I want a 2"x4" bullnose piece with a bullnose on both the short and long edges. For the top row where it's open, I want 2"x4" bullnose pieces with the bullnose on the long edge. I looked at the Schluter, but I really didn't like it. I'm going for a more rustic look, and I think it has more of a modern look. The solution I finally found was a place down in Cincinnati where you send them pieces of your field tile and they make them into bullnose pieces to your specification with a kiln fired finish. That way everything matches my field tile. It's costing me about $4 per bullnose tile, but it's giving me exactly the look I want. I think they have a minimum order amount of $50.

ajracine, after I thought about your question, are you saying to take the 2"x4" inch (that is on a 45 degree with the herringbone) but run them in a straight pattern along the edge to line it? That would work. You might sacrifice a sheet to see how it will look to you. As long as you are okay with a 2" wide line of tile running vertical. Those would not need to be "polished off/bull nosed" like I was talking about. In my earlier reply, I was envisioning "rounding off" the cut edge of your mosiac. Sorry about that. I think I now understand. I think I would still go with a shluter edge or a thin pencil liner tile (if it blended well with your mosaic herringbone.) The reason I say that is the border you would created with the 2x4 tiles will pull your eye to the trim line/herringbone joint line, and take away from your pretty herringbone pattern. (or that is what my mind is seeing.)