Looks good to me too.

These floors are new. I believe my Gc didn’t scrub clean the tiles before sealing them. I know he poured the muriatic acid on it but he did not scrub the dirt that accumulated from people stepping on it to get the shower installed. He followed up with a sealer. Would this just not seal the dirt in? I think there are even rust marks already.

Looks like he didn't clean the grout off very well. I can't help as to how to address that after sealing. Luckily, pebbled floors are rustic in nature so I don't think it looks awful. Are the stones supposed to be shiny? The acid could have abraded the surface and resulted in the low sheen. I also don't see silicone where the shower floor and wall meet and this would make me question the entire installation if I hadn't watched each step.

Edit: What in the world would have caused rust?

Hi Alex9179 i think there were a lot of workers in and out of the house. I saw stuff on top of the shower floor before the floors were sealed. I’m thinking something left on the shower floor rusted.

That can be removed, then. Scrubbing with Barkeeper's Friend or a recommendation from a tile expert that, hopefully, weighs in for you. Is that grout or silicon at the corners and where the floor meets the wall? It should be silicone that matches the grout color.

I cleaned the floor and walls with a very mild bathroom clean method. It didn’t get much out. Upon complaining my Gc said he could poor muriatic acid again to reclean it then seal it again. This sounds drastic and since it didn’t work the first time he did it I’m not sure it’s worth risking wearing the tiles. The countertop guy recommended the barkeeper for tough stains on my quartz. Do you think it’ll work on these stains? Would this be safer than what my Gc is offering to do.

Ugh, yes. Where the change of plane occurs it should be silicone. The grout will crack and fall out, which looks like what is already going on in that corner. All of the corners and where the wall meets the floor need to have the grout removed and grout matching silicone used, instead.

I'm sorry. It doesn't bode well for the overall job when even I can see errors in execution. Do you have pictures, or proof, of the waterproofing method used?

I don't have any pictures of the work as it was being done.

is removing the grout at the joint at the bottom require removing floor and tile?

just googled it and I saw a video where the grout was removed from between the tiles without the need to remove the tiles. So I'm hopeful this will be the same in this situation.

Not if they're careful and don't chip the wall tile, but it's not a quick job. I wouldn't ask the previous tiler to take care of remedying the mistake. That person has less knowledge than I do about TCNA best practice.

You can also post this on the John Bridge forum. It's for tile professionals and homeowners with questions. They might be able to direct you to someone who can remedy the problems.

https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1

Do you know the waterproofing method? That's something that would require removing everything and starting over, if not done correctly.

Ok so I’ve researched what Alex said and Its all over the internet that there should be silicone caulk instead of grout where the tile meet the floor in this shower. I read in the internet that in every plane change there should also be silicone caulk instead of grout. So should I ask my Gc to remove grout in the corner of wall and put silicone instead?

Thanks alex for your insight!

Please do not use Barkeeper's Friend on quartz. My fabricator scratched mine with it and had to replace my countertop.

Oh wow thanks for the tip. I did research barkeeper friend for these floors. The pebbled rock are considered porcelain tiles from what I researched ? and it looks like barkeeper friend is safe on porcelain tiles. I did read somewhere ?? to wipe it off quick though even though..

The contractor already used acid on the pebbles, so BF wouldn't do more damage on the rust spots. The polished tiles look fine. And no, no abrasives on polished surfaces!

Yes. The contractor needs to remove the grout and use silicone. Unfortunately, there may be more worrisome issues behind all of the tile. I hope you have a warranty on the work done, in case there're future leaks.

Ok. Alex thanks again for all your help. let me see if I have this straight.

1. So only use BF on rust spot?

2. Leave the other tiles alone and you are advising not to reclean floor with acid and not to repeat seal?

3. Take out grout where shower floor meets tile and use silicone.

4. Also take out grout in corners up the wall and replace with silicone.

I think BF can remove the rust if you don't choose to have the contractor use an acid to further clean the pebble tiles.

I encourage you to check your options as far as removing haze/cleaning/sealing the pebble floor. I don't have the knowledge to advise you with that one.

Yes, remove grout from all change of planes and replace with silicone that matches the grout color.

BF Friend will remove the rust, but Muriatic Acid won't? That sounds backwards to me.........................

That wasn't the point. I didn't know if she wanted the contractor to try muriatic again or look into a different option. BF would remove the rust stain if she left the floor alone.

BF isn’t going to remove iron deposits from out of the rocks. Way too much misinformation on this thread. Sealer isn’t a layer of plastic applied. Sheesh. And all sealer does is inhibit the penetration of stains into a porous substance. It doesn’t waterproof or “seal in” dirt. That’s nonsense.

If you want the rocks to be enhanced, you have to apply an enhancer. But you’ll need to strip whatever concoction was put on it first.

Ok. so it looks like no ones really saying the stones look bad except for the rust like stain. I’ll try barkeeper friend on the local spot. I’ll also ask my Gc to remove grout at change of planes and put silicone.

I am hoping this shower doesn’t have any long term problems. What should we look for? Our Gc relies a lot on recommendations and we know his past referrals. I’m sure if there is a problem he would care to fix it.

Your GC can take care of the rust stain and the haze. Leave it for him to fix.

Do you think the rocks look hazy? I'm sorry i have zero experience.

In your close-ups, it looks like some grout is on top of the rocks. If there is a glob left then it's likely the entire surface needs to be cleaned. You can see them better than I can - LOL!

Haze will make the tile look dirty and dull and that was your original concern. I called my tile installer back after I took a damp rag to mine. My grout was dark and showed up clearly on the fabric.

Why don't you compare the pre-installed pebbles with the installation? You'll have to do the comparison and talk to your GC about any differences that you find unacceptable.

Yes there is grout on some rocks and little splatters of paint as well on the rocks. There is also some grout on the tiles on the walls that is of course dried up. I've scraped some grout off the wall tiles and it comes out. I may do the same on the shower floors as I don't think my gc will do it with the patience and care required.

I am going to have to speak up about the grout removal at the change of planes unless it Is that something I can do myself????? I just want it done right and not rushed....

By the way went on the john bridge forum and created a log in but I'm unable to post. it says it maybe because i have limited access.

Doing the silicone yourself may void any warranty/give your GC an excuse to not fix future issues.

Not sure about johnbridge, did you get an activation email?

Ok you are right I won’t touch it myself.

Yes I got an activation email for John bridge. I have a login and can view post but when I try and start a new post it says I have limited access.

Hmm. I don't know why you can't post but you might contact them and ask.

I know I need to tell my GC to take out the grout at the change of planes and replace it with silicone caulk but I'm feeling a bit insecure being that this isn't my line of expertise. Any tips on how to address this?

Alex By the way You had mentioned there maybe more worrisome issues behind the tile. please share?

Only my instinct given that he didn't execute the visible finishing in an accepted, and well-known, manner. If the visible isn't up to standards, what's behind the walls? My alarm bells went off but it's too late to check it without tearing it all out. You'll know within the year and that's why a warranty is so important.

I'm just a check, check-again person after reading the forums for several years. Also, I'm going through my own reno and, despite written instructions and pictures, there have been some silly errors. I try to have a basic understanding of what should be happening so that I can, hopefully, catch it before we have to tear out the work. Also, hired a GC with positive local standing...just like you did. Mine has taken care of things, which have been minor like the wrong size cans and placement.

It's like any medical issue, I'm my own best advocate and it's my duty to ask questions. I have to have an idea of the possibilities to ask the questions. Approach it like that. I see no reason to be confrontational. After some self-education with the TCNA handbook (Tile Council of North America), johnbridge is a great place to become acquainted with basics, just say that you expected silicone at the changes of plane and you're confident that he (or his tile person) will follow industry standards.

Why in the world would the GC use muriatic acid on that floor? If left for too long it will eat the stone. If not washed off properly, it will continue to eat the stone.

When being installed, a grout release should have been applied to the stones prior to grouting. This will keep the grout from not grabbing onto the stone. After grouting, the entire floor must be whipped down with a damp sponge which also removes the grout release and any grout on the stone. After all of this has been completed, seal the entire floor. An enhancing sealer will cause the stones warmer colors to show. A solvent based sealer is best for performance and longevity of life of the sealer.

Stone Tech by Laticrete sells a product called KlenzAll that is a natural stone cleaner. If you use this product, not diluted, it will clean the stones and strip away any sealer applied. Once the area has been cleaned properly wait 24 hrs before applying the new sealer.

Muriatic acid is no joke, our drains had a bucket poured on them by Tilman at his Post Oak Hotel, they survived and stayed shiny!