Thanks Jim, My intentions are that my son and I will plant the trees. I plan to rent a dingo with a large auger. These are small peach trees, so they won't need much of a hole, but I don't want to try it by hand. I've thought of doing some soil testing. The biggest issue with our soil and climate around here is getting peach trees up out of the ground (i.e. terraced). If that's done peaches grow like weeds, if it's not done, they die. I did a couple soil tests on the soil here and it was very low in P. However, the farm property has been used for cattle pasture for years, and so should have plenty of P (probably too much). Zinc was also low here, but I typically spray Ziram for early scab control which also provides zinc through foliar absorption (peach trees are heavy feeders of zinc). My general problem is that peach trees have been too vigorous here, so I wouldn't mind if the soil was a little less fertile at the farm (but it probably won't be). The soil profile looks very similar on both sites (20" of top soil followed by clay for as far as you want to dig). I plan to mulch the trees out there with wood chips and run a dry orchard, as I do here. "are you doing this on your own or are you getting technical assistance from a university or crop specialist?" I'm not quite doing it on my own. I've been touring orchards in the area for many years (partly with the Kansas Fruit Growers Assoc.) so compared to other orchards I don't think there are many surprises. There is a good fruit specialist in Missouri I've met and may see if I can get him to come out. My wife and I looked for land for a while and no site is perfect. This ones not either. The biggest issue is air drainage. The part of the land I intend to plant does flatten out in a low spot, but the low spot extends for over a mile, so I'm hoping the flat area is large enough to accommodate cold air drainage. Part of the property is on a southward facing slope, but I don't intend to plant on that (at least not right away). I wish the property didn't have the air drainage concern but trying to find a property easily accessible to the public, zoned rural, doesn't flood, at a reasonable price is pretty difficult. My biggest question was row spacing, since I don't have any experience running large equipment down rows. I emailed a few commercial peach growers and basically got back similar answers. Namely, it's personal preference. Jerry Frecon (fruit specialist from Rutgers) sent back the most humorous response - "I could take you to orchards with 16' row spacing and when they are heavily laden with fruit you can hardly walk down the rows. I see the growers drive his equipment through these blocks and break limbs, knock off and bruise fruit but he does not worry about it because he says he is picking up to 1200 bushels per acre at this close spacing and high vigor." I've pretty much settled on 25'rows which is a bit more space than growers around here allow. I plan to allow 30' at the ends to turn equipment. There is a very good resource here, http://www.clemson.edu/extension/peach/commercial/index.html called the "Southeastern Peach Growers Handbook". It is obviously written for peach growers in the Southeast, but the Midwest doesn't have anything nearly that extensive, and a lot of the information crosses over.

Just moved into our new home and discovered glue on hardwood throughout kitchen and tracked/dripped into the great room. Used Mirage Clean to remove it and it worked. First, sprayed the cleaner on an O'Cedar Microfiber Flip-Mop and mopped a small section. Then, got down on hands and knees and did each spot where the glue was. Sprayed some Mirage on a soft cloth (washcloth) and rubbed it on, gently, then scraped the glue off with my fingernail. Too concerned that anything more abrasive than my fingernail would take off the finish. Did the whole kitchen/dining/great room this way. At the end, I mopped the entire area again with Mirage Clean. This product I got from my flooring dealer; I plan to use it regularly for cleaning. No residue build-up. He also said Armstrong products are very good. Took me 12 hours of hard labor, hands and knees, but worth it, as I now have a glue-free hardwood floor and I didn't damage the surface. Twas not a happy camper when I discovered this and I probably could have complained loudly and insisted the builder take care of this. But I wanted careful attention to it, not a quick clean-up. As an award to self, I went out and found three counter stools on sale! Thank you all you Garden Web members. You've helped me tremendously during the building process.

Last year, I tackled the same project in a spare bedroom. Our house is approximately 25 years old to give you an idea of how long the popcorn had been up there. I didn't wet the ceiling at all--I dryscraped it with a piece of 2x4. I didn't get it down to a smooth ceiling, but got about 2/3 of the stuff off so that when I was finished, it looks like orange peel. Cleaned that mess up, vacuumed it well, and put a coat of Gardz on the entire ceiling. Let that dry, and then painted the ceiling with two coats of white paint. Don't know if this helps, but I still remember my sore arms and neck.

That’s the BIL tuition tax. You just learned to not hire friends and family for anything that you care about the result, and aren’t ready to lose the friendship over getting a hack result. Once a polyurethane based glue cures, you just bought all new flooring and a ripout and new install if you want something better looking. The only way to save this if he is an even worse hack than he looks, and he didn’t use a polyurethane glue.