Just some thoughts on the chemical aspects of all this: Lily Miller Polysul is a standard lime/sulfur spray. If you spray this at the dormant concentration (1 cup per gallon) you will probably kill the leaves on the plant but do no further harm to your roses. Stripping off the leaves to prevent killing them with the dormant spray strikes me as akin to cutting off one's legs prior to skiing to prevent breaking them. Lime/sulfur at the growing season concentration (4 teaspoons per gallon) will probably kill off any active mildew infections as well as most of the mildew spores in your garden. However, mildew spores are air-borne and a one-time cleanup isn't really going to solve a mildew problem. If you spray synthetics, one of the most effective mildew fungicides is supposed to be Myclobutanil (Immunox, Eagle, etc.) If you spray only organic-certified sprays, Green Cure's formulation of potassium bicarbonate or just the growing season version of your Lily Miller Polysul would be two of the best. With any of these fungicides, you would have to spray regularly, probably weekly, throughout the season. By the way, the mildews that attack roses are specific to roses, meaning the mildew on your non-rose plants poses no dangers to your roses.

OP-To see if the drawers can be adjusted enough to suit you try one yourself. Attached is a picture. From the looks of your level they are just a little beyond the built in adjustment. Naturally doors will also need to be adjusted and at some point if things are seriously off it will show in the reveal at the bottom of the cabinets. A careful installer should be able to "cheat" reveals so things don't look bad. Within the adjustment available there will be no impact on performance or longevity of the glides. Since you already have hardware installed adjusting drawerheads to boxes would be a headache and less than ideal. Should they be off that much? -NO. Is it a big problem?-with overlay cabinets not really but it is if you feel it is. Will it affect the counter installation over time?- Tre or someone else could better answer that but if the stone is fully supported over its' length I don' see why. Better than a shim every 3 ft IMO. Where/who is the problem?-First and foremost the cabinet installer - the job is to install plumb, level and square, then the counter installer AND the GC. . Why not the mfg?- it is all too easy to rack cabinets during installation. It is also easy to straighten slight imperfections in installation (especially on pocket hole cabinets). That is the installers job- install plumb level and square. Example- I handle two better brands of inset cabinets. One is doweled together the other is mortise and tenon. They always come dead straight and square. The cabinet is stiff compared to a pocket hole cabinet. The M&T cabinet has only an 1/8" reveal and mortised hinges that allow very little adjustment. I warn installers that they must back installation screws completely with shims and not to over torque them. Every now and then I get a call that the cabinet door is rubbing. I go to the job levels in hand and something is always off. Most of the time all that is needed is to relieve the pressure on one or two screws, shim it and gently tighten it back up. Voila reveal magically is straight and true. Levels- I'm with Mongrel on this- the only 4 ft I own is a masonry level that I wouldn't allow near a cabinet. I keep an ok torpedo, and quality 16" , 2', 3' and 6' (along with two on my phone, one on the tablet and a bubble lippage level for tile.) As a homeowner I use the 2 and 6 most. As a KD the 16" lives in my "go visit bag". When I pull up to the home during installation the 16, a tape measure, and notebook go with me. The 6 ft comes along on measures, when a problem is brought up, or during installation if I didn't see one there to begin with. Why should I have to check? as noted above even just a glorified cabinet salesman I need a couple of reliable levels at my disposal all the time. If your KD is not as pissy as me; then yes, you WANT to be able to check things. Folks are often asking here what to check BEFORE ordering or signing, well there are things worth checking DURING...It is a lot easier to take care of issues before completion than after. No one is perfect and you end up paying for it and living with it. If money is tight send DH to buy it, be careful with whatever packaging, then when done, go back and return it. You can have fun making up a story that DH is all thumbs and was nuts to buy it :) First run around the house and check a few things just for fun. oops, forgot to include adjustment info for you. This post was edited by jakuvall on Mon, Sep 1, 14 at 13:20

Here's some good info on trapping from our state AG/Extension site - emphasis added by me: "...Trapping—Trapping is an underrated method of controlling rodents. One reason trapping is often overlooked is that snap traps have been around for a long time and are cheap. Traps can be used to eliminate rats where poison baits would be dangerous, to avoid dead rat odors, and to eliminate bait-shy rats. It is important to place traps where the rats are. Rats and mice are used to human odors so there is no need to use gloves when handling traps. Since mice travel only 10–30 feet but rats travel 100–150 feet from harborages, more traps are needed to trap mice than rats in a house. Rats and mice also have different behavior around new objects. Rats are cautious, and it may be a week before they approach a trap. Mice are curious and will normally approach traps the first night. If you don't catch a mouse in the first few nights, the trap is in the wrong location. To help rats overcome trap shyness, place traps unset, in place, for several days. This allows rats to overcome shyness and results in better catches. Baited traps rely on the rat's being attracted for feeding. The bait must compete with other available foods, so no one bait is ever the best bait for all locations. Rodents living on garbage or spoiled food prefer something fresh. The following are some baits that have proven to be successful: Whole nuts for rats and mice. Raisins or grapes for roof rats. Sardines packed in oil for Norway rats. Peanuts or peanut butter for rats and mice (soak whole peanuts in water overnight; old peanut butter becomes rancid so replace it frequently). Dry rolled oatmeal is excellent for mice. Bacon squares. Small wads of cotton for mice and rats (they look for nest material). Gumdrops for mice. Baited traps should be set a right angles to rat runs (Figure 6). Traps can be nailed to rafters and beams to take advantage of areas where rats travel. Set traps along walls, behind furniture, and near holes. Remember to set traps where children and pets will not be hurt..." And lots more here: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/dh044

The reason I want to see that area behind the columns is that I'm envisioning repurposing the rest of the (painted) entertainment center into a bar. I would paint the rest of the entertainment center the same color as the ledge I suggested placing under the TV to tie them together. I would then place them on the back wall with the buffet piece between the display cabinets. To make the bottom cabinet look more like a bar, I would get a thick piece of glass cut to place on top. I would then get a nice metal serving tray to put on top and place barware on it. I would put a large mirror or piece of artwork above the buffet. You could use the rest of the cabinets to store or display whatever you want and the setup would look intentional. If you like to entertain it will come in handy to have that place to serve as a bar or to set appetizers.