1930’s casement windows...keep or replace?
Marybeth Bentwood
5 years ago
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do i need mua in 1930's home without hvac
Comments (7)Thanks for your input kaseki. I wish I were an engineer and could give an actual figure on how leaky the house is, best I can say is VERY :). Along with the hole out the roof for the swamp cooler there are also (6) 8"X5" openings to the crawl space. The other gas combustion appliances (boiler and H2O heater) are in the utility room which accesses the crawl space. The utility room is also below the kitchen. As for the source of their make up air I'm unsure... kinda makes me wish I'd asked the tech. who installed the new boiler last year a lot more questions. So, thinking this through if we were to go with the 1200 cfm hood and connected a damper to a fresh air inlet (hole) to the outside and to nothing on the inside (as we have no forced air and therefore no ducting), the damper would open when I used the range vent and let in MUA for the time the range vent was in use, and close when it wasn't. Realistically, how much more air could it be pulling in than the 6 other holes in the crawl space and the one in the roof? hmmm. I'm probably missing something in my logic but it seems silly to have only 1 of 8 openings controlled unless it's absolutely necessary to have that 8th hole and it's in a location that I want to be able to shut is my thinking. Currently I have a non-functioning electric range with OTR MW recirculation hood (the catalyst for the whole remodel). Needless-to-say I'm excited to have proper range ventilation and want to do it right, but I'm starting to think that a damper for additional MAU might not be needed. I do know this, the 3 times a year my DH takes the time to get me a really good fire going, I'm sitting in front of it and am no where near the range. :)...See MoreCasement or Double Hung Windows?
Comments (11)We have Casement and Double-Hung. I am no expert. The following is our experience and research info. Good windows from reputable manufacturers, big or small, will seal well and not have unreasonable infiltration. A company may sell different lines from entry-level to higher-end and each line may have different infiltration rating. You can check the ratings published by the manufacturer to get one that best fits your requirements. In general, casement is supposed to seal better than dbl-hung and slider is supposed to be the hardest to seal tight. Again, good companies knows how to seal them tight, sliders or otherwise. Draft in general has three sources. One is poorly sealed windows, another is poorly installed windows with gaps and seams open to the outside and the other is poorly constructed windows. A properly installed window can seal tight against infiltration but if it transmits heat or cold readily from the exterior to the interior due to poor design or material, then a draft will form as interior air passing the window is rapidly heated or cool. Either case, air movement will happen by the windows. Note that "cheaper" windows often are poorly designed and constructed and will be drafty. We lived with a house full of these when we bought our place and ended up replacing all of them. So in many cases, we do pay for what we get. Modern windows use all sorts of thermal breaks to limit or prevent such contact-transfer of thermal energy. Low-E coating is very effective at keeping heat out in the summer and warmth in during winter months. Double-pane construction with gas-filled space is another method to limit energy transfer. Ours are of such construction and have lived up to expectation. We are currently smack dab in the middle of CA's Summit Fire that started last THursday. Our house has been covered by thick smoke all this time and no hint of smoke in our house yet. Both the dbl-hung and casement are doing their jobs. Good luck with your research!...See MoreOrigianl 1920's steel casement windows: keep or replace?
Comments (1)You will need to check with your local/state environmental oversight body to see how the asbestos caulking is defined. Technically, the steel window with the lead paint can be removed by contractor if he is an EPA certified renovator. You might be best suited to have an abatement company remove everything and prepare the opening for your contractor to install the new windows....See MoreSinking Dreams - Redoing my 1930's Kitchen
Comments (41)I've never seen a DW under the sink. Where do the pipes go? I really like the idea of putting it to the left though, it would be less noticeable there. I wouldn't get a panel (not with my lower-end cabs) anyway. My DH said, "Why do you want to hide the fact that we own a dishwasher, is it embarrassing?" One of those things, where, If you don't get it, you don't get it! I am unsure about the vintage sink. I've been looking for one for ages but they all need reglazing. The salvage store sells them reglazed, but I've heard it doesn't hold up. Also, I measured, like Francy suggested, and realized that if all three walls are "fitted" the sink area will be less than 55" and I like counterspace next to the sink. I am not opposed to the undermount sinks (That have no lip?, am I using the right term?) I think they may make clean-up easier? I have seen some pics on here: wilsonb, klb 2000, and vjrnts - they have great vintage-style kitchens with undermounts and soapstone counters. I'll have many questions to ask about maintenance - I probably should start another thread for that. I want to thank all of you for giving me so much attention - I'm not used to it :) Most people I know have new houses. Even those I know in my part of town (the historic part) have brand-new kitchens. Dh is only interested in cost and maintainability. It's great to find people who speak your language!...See MoreMarybeth Bentwood
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