Immunox is good at preventing powdery mildew but not downy mildew, which despite the name is an entirely different disease. A mix of chlorothanolil and mancozeb is probably as effective as anything against it. But this is another of the diseases that it's easier to prevent than cure.

It take about six weeks for trans planted Blackberry plant show sign new growth you destroy all small white roots that pick up water in transplanting. One way you protect some these roots in planting method from pot to ground is to turn plant when in pot upside down remove plant and soil from container intact then very careful turn over and put in planting hole. This keep those small white roots intact as long potting soil not broke right moisture in pot soil important to much water soil brake apart. Water soil mix let it drain for one hour this drain time remove heaviest part water. You want to be able cover potting soil on top with soil this slow potting from drying out fast. Planting while plant dormant zone 8a around December 1st helps to give more time plant recover like 3 months planting now that time lost.

Hi Becky, Tell me more about the plants. Dry, crunchy leaves indicate dead leaves. I need to know if the branches look OK and if the main stem is browning, yellowing, turning white, or otherwise appears damaged in any way. Also, are ALL the plants affected and are the affected plants all looking about the same? If it is not all the plants, could you guess at what percentage of plants are affected? If your area had high winds, the foliage might have turned a blackish color on the edges (from windburn) similar to the way a frozen leaf looks, although sometimes a mild wind burn results in brown edges but usually not whole brown leaves. If the problem is a lack of water, the ground should feel very dry when you stick your finger down a couple of inches into the soil. There is no such thing as a "normal" amount of water for tomatoes because it varies wildly and depends on many factors, including your soil and its' moisture-holding capacity, the daily temperatures, the wind speeds, and even the pan evaporation rate of water. If the soil has some moisture in it, I wouldn't think they are too dry. Of course, if your soil is bone dry, they absolutely could be too dry. However, tomato plants are much more likely to be too wet in the month of May as long as some rain is falling. However, to simplify watering by saying water when the plants are dry isn't very helpful, so I'll say this. Once plants are over the period of transplant shock and start putting out new growth, they can grow an inch a day, so at least one inch of water a week is probably a minimum. In May and maybe early June, 2" a week (in two separate waterings) might be better. Once fruit has set and is enlarging, 1" is adequate unless you have very fast-draining soil or lots of wind (which does dehydrate the plants). Also, it is hard to guess without knowing the lay of the land around you, but is there a chance that anyone within a mile (or slightly more) of you in any direction might have sprayed Round-up or something similar? Sometimes that results in leaf discoloration and a mottled appearance to the leaves, as well as twisted, distorted foliage. Tomatoes are incredibly, incredibly senstive to Round-up drift, even if only very minute amounts drift onto them. Look at your plants. Is the damage on only the upper leaves or outer leaves or is it uniformly up and down the plant? And, if it is windburn, sunburn or even Round-up damage, they can recover. Often, the initial impulse in such a situation is to immediately feed the plants with a fast-acting fertilizer to "green them up". This is not a good idea. Fertilizer actually stresses plants when it is applied, and too much stress is bad for already-stressed plants. The thing to do at this point is to look at them carefully, make notes about their appearance, and let's talk about it some more. Plants that are recently transplanted often suffer some minor problems, and most of them are easily overcome, so please don't panic. IF the entire plant is wilted, though, that's a bit worrisome. In that case, check the soil and water the plants if the soil is dry a couple of inches down. Remember that even in soil that has a lot of moisture deep down, the surface dries out faster, and new tomato plants have comparatively small root systems unless you have progressively potted them up into larger and larger pots over a period of many weeks to give them big root systems. Often, early tomato plantings are vigorously attacked by flea beetles who eat tiny holes in the leaves. Tissue necrosis then occurs in little rings around the holes, and that tissue does turn brown. If it is flea beetles eating holes in the leaves, the tiny holes will be scattered across the leaf surface as if someone shot a tiny shotgun at the leaves and the shot left tons of little holes. Finally, take a look at the photos in the attached tomato problem solver and see if anything looks familiar. Talk to you later, Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: TAMU Tomato Problem Solver

Your leaves will naturally droop as the day goes on. The plants are conserving energy. They can really look incredibly sad. They should pop back up at night. If they don't pop back up, it's for lack of water which you need to do more regularly, but resist watering them each time you see them drooping during the day (again, they're supposed to) because you'll stress them out. As for the older leaves crumbling, my vines do this every year from the bottom up as the plant ages or it gets too hot. Almost all of my vines are like that now.