I agree that it is most likely that cucumber beetles introduced bacterial wilt to your cucumbers. The disease is not in your soil, it's in the beetles. There is no cure. You can only prevent the problem by choosing resistant varieties and using an appropriate insecticide from the beginning. I had the same problem with my cucumbers until I grew Diva cucumbers, which are supposed to be unappealing to the beetles, and started spraying regularly with spinosad. I never saw the beetles on my cucumbers, but I did see a few on other plants. Cucumbers grow fast, so you can choose a resistant variety and start over. Here is a link that might be useful: Info on bacterial wilt

Rosemary can indeed be killed by too much watering. In the last climate where I lived it got enough water in the winter and should essentially never be watered in the summer. Here, it likes just a little bit of summer water. But that's a special case. Vegetables need lots and lots of water. As long as you're watering them deeply and then leaving them for a day or so, rather than constantly running out there so that their roots are always sopping, you're infinitely less likely to kill them with overwatering than with underwatering. When I hand-water, I'll often stand over one, say, five-by-five spot for a full minute or more, then water the one next to it while I watch to see how fast the first one drains and ceases to be "shiny". Or I'll leave a soaker head in the bed and let the bed _flood_, so that it's got water half an inch or an inch high in it, then move it to another bed and watch the first bed drain. If it drains faster than about five seconds, I'll do another round and watch it drain again. I generally keep at it until I have at least a faint doubt of, "Uh-oh, did I seriously overwater? Is it going to drain?" because it takes several seconds or even a minute to drain. And then it drains and I breathe a sigh of relief and I know that it's good and saturated and that in all but the hottest weather, I can leave it for three or four days. All of the details - how fast a saturated patch drains, how many days I can wait, and so on - depend on your soil and your weather. If your soil is sandy, it may never take more than a few seconds to drain. If it's clay, it may take minutes. But my point is to water _thoroughly_, and as infrequently as is reasonable, rather than giving it frequent little sprinkles. To start getting a feel for your soil, start poking your finger in it frequently. (If you hate dirty nails, use lightweight rubber gloves.) My view is that ideally, soil for vegetables should be like a moist brownie, not sopping but not dry, and no more than the top inch should get dry. You can keep it at that ideal state longer by adding mulch, so that the excess water will drain but the residual water won't evaporate off the top.

I have to laugh at some of the posts that suggest everyone act like adults. I say this because "ultimate fighting" is fast becoming one of the most popular adult sports. Shaking your finger and telling people to grow up isn't realistic. This is a forum and everyone is entitled to express an opinion. If a poster only wants to hear a certain answer, I suggest that person state so right up front: "No opposing suggestions welcome." If a poster only wants comments from people who douse their environment in hazardous chemicals, just say so. Some of us occasionally comment so that new gardeners will know that there are other alternatives to poisonous chemicals. There are also serious consequences. So, while it may be entirely true that Karl and Michaelg are knowledgeable people, why not spend a few moments and, perhaps relay (though stories) how they used to use pesticides... This is not a moderated forum. We post as we see fit. Sometimes shortly out of frustration and anger. We do not feel the need to spin stories for anyones edification. No one was particularly rude until the op alluded to a bodily orifice. He/she/it lost a lot of respect with the vulgarity. Karl and michaelg do have a lot of knowledge. It's up to everyone reading this post to decide the advise they want to heed and the advise they want to ignore. But the fickle finger of politically correct it pointing squarely at the people who are poisoning the environment. Be prepared to take some hits when you step up and say I use insecticide and I'm proud of it.

Sorry Eva but your question got lost in all the other discussion. In the future it is best to start your own thread, ok? I don't know what the foil is supposed to do but it could be making the soil too warm. It can also abrade the stems. Wilting can be caused by many things - over or under watering, over-crowding, transplant shock, the potting mix you used, or even by all the things you have sprayed on them. What are the containers filled with? One problem is obvious, the size of the plants right now compared to the size of the container means they could easily be drowning if you are actually keeping 35 gallons of soil wet all the time. With a container that big what is usually done is to fill it only 1/2 full, plant the small transplant and then slowly fill the container with mix as the plant grows. That keeps the scale of plant to amount of soil in line. Could your tell us the actual dimensions on the container? Are you guessing at the 35 gallons or is that what the nursery claimed? The reason I ask is that 35 gallons is a very unusual size for containers sold to the public. In all my years in the nursery business I have never seen a container that shape that will actually hold that much mix. Standard sizes for hard sided containers is 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, and 50. Your plants are quite leggy, with long skinny stems and long spaces between the branches. That means they are not getting nearly enough sun. Plus are you sure they were aphids? It would be unusual to see aphids in soil. More likely fungus gnats. Either way I'd suggest laying off on all the sprays. Those home-made remedies usually only make things worse. Based on your photos I can only tell you what I would do. Reduce the plants to no more than two in each container, dig up the two you choose to leave and bury them much deeper so all that bare stem is buried, bury them right up to just below the top cluster of leaves so new roots will develop all along that buried stem. Then feed them with a well balanced fertilizer, preferably a liquid one so it will work quickly and move the containers to where they can get much more sun. Next year, if you plan use those same containers, first take the time to do some research into large container growing. It has some very unique requirements. I hope this is of some help to you. Dave