Instead of matching your shower floor tile to your other tile maybe you should consider matching your shower floor to your granite. We used the same granite as our countertop for our shower base. It's an option that may be a little pricier but it has definite advantages. There are no grout lines, no mold or mildew, it is guaranteed (at least ours is) not to leak, it has a low threshold, and installation is faster. Ask your fabricator if he does stone shower pans/basins. The link below is for the company we used but I am posting it just or basic information. You can see most of our stone shower pan in the picture below: Here is a link that might be useful: Stone shower pans

thanks to all who have posted so far, especially Eric. We can probably save/budget down the road for a kitchen redo, or do part of it ourselves. Additions would be a little harder for us except finish work (floors, tile, etc. Can do drywall even but would need to find time to do it). What that kitchen has is a U shaped layout, not too bad except there are overhanging cabinets between a small dining/family space and the kitchen. It's a counter/pass through kind of setup where someone can sit at stools and talk with the person in the kitchen....except the cabinets hang down so the person in the kitchen has to look under them. We would likely tear those out and relocate the stovetop to the perimeter wall and make that pass through an island. Then that entire space could become kitchen/dining. It is possible we could still move out a wall on that (kitchen) side of the house down the road too, we are in Hawaii so all the construction costs are much, much higher than mainland. So jealous of all the posters here who can put on a large extension for less than 50K. Plan A or Plan B will cost us about the same. We don't plan to sell and move anytime soon, but should we need to we're leaning toward sq. footage instead of just extending current bath and upgrading the kitchen. Our neighborhood is about 20 years old so people are beginning to redo those rooms as the fixtures and appliances are ageing. We redid all the appliances about three years ago with stainless finishes, new faucet/sink, and redid the countertop Corian, so the kitchen is livable - just need to clear out some clutter and make smarter usage on available storage space. We could paint or restain the cabinet doors to freshen it up. A few neighbors are creating the "big bang" kitchen now but I'm not certain a 70K upgrade will improve the value that much as a new neighborhood is planned about 5 miles away within the next couple of years. Would we love to live in a "WOW" kitchen, of course. But as with most people we have to make a decision on where it is best to spend the money for now. We could feasibly also add on a 2nd story in future years, but we prefer the single story and if we age-in-place as planned, the new bath will include wide accesses and no-curb shower.

Sumod- The medicine cabinets are simple wood frames with a cabinet-grade plywood back that just sit in the stud cavity. Because of the dimensions, the front of the frame projects about 1"+ beyond the finished wall. The medicine cabinet doors are also plywood with veneered edges and they are attached to the frame with standard cabinet hinges (Euro hinges). The mirrors are just 1/4" plate glass ordered to size from a glass shop and held in place with mirror mastic and a metal strip at the bottom that you don't really see. The guy who did the cabinets just made the medicine cabinets as part of the job. I don't know about the door brand...we live in a large metro area that has lots of door shops and the doors are just solid core maple doors with the center cut out and a maple panel held in with molding. They're not stained; they simply have a couple coats of clear spray lacquer.

"Oatey" usually refers to a shower pan liner. Sloped mud (preslope) gets installed over the flat subfloor, the Oatey goes over the sloped mud, so now the membrane itself is slope to the drain. Then more mud goes over the Oatey and tile goes on top of the second layer of mud. Wall waterproofing will be independent of the Oatey liner. "Kerdi" is a surface applied membrane, most often it comes in sheet form. Kerdi can get applied over a sloped foam Kerdi tray on the floor (or to save money, omit the Kerdi Tray and use sloped deck mud), and if your shower walls are already drywalled or covered with cement board, Kerdi membrane can be applied directly to the drywall/cement board on the shower walls. Tile goes directly on the Kerdi. With Oatey, the Oatey liner on the floor combined with (for example) 6-mil poly sheeting behind cement board on the walls will usually give the least expensive installation. Many showers have been built this way and properly detailed, they perform well. The downside? On the walls the tile, grout, thinset, and cement board can theoretically all get wet. On the floor the tile, thinset, and top layer of deck mud can all get wet. Once the mud base wets, it usually remains moist over the life of the shower. With Kerdi (or most any other surface applied membrane), there is less wetting of the shower structure. Because the tile is adhered directly to the membrane, the only thing that can get wet is the tile, grout and thinset. You can usually save money using Oatey and 6-mil poly. You can better control moisture with Kerdi (or another surface applied membrane). You can save money over a typical Kerdi installation shower package by not using a manufactured Kerdi Tray on the floor and instead using sloped deck mud.