Code is code, unfortunately…so many feet between outlets is the norm. For the homeowner/decorator it doesn’t make sense. Don’t fool around with code. You won’t get an occupancy permit.

You will probably need cord covers, a savior…also, consider outlets in the floor under your sofa(s).

You can only add. The ones specified can shift when adding, but you can not remove them.

1. The electrician will need to answer that.

2. The electrician will need to quote that

More is better, add extras.

Thanks for the responses. Guess we will have to cross our fingers on walk-through next week that what we ask for doesn't cost another arm and a leg...

You probably have to keep the # you have to meet code. Then add any additional. Our code South Western PA is an outlet every 6 ft. As long as they are no more than 6 feet apart you can move them around. And any outlet within 6 feet from water (sink, etc) must be on a GFI.

The more counter outlets in the kitchen the better, if you are having them hidden under the cabinets, make sure that they are able to handle plugs with adaptors. (Think Alexa or Google Home plug-ins)

Consider occupancy sensors for certain rooms like Laundry Rooms, Bathrooms, Closets, Pantries. That way if you enter them with your hands full, you aren't fumbling for the switch. We put one in our laundry room as a test and now we are putting them in the above mentioned rooms.

Don't forget outlets for Christmas lights under the eaves controlled by a switch or dusk to dawn sensor.

As mentioned above, there are no requirements for how many outlets, switches, etc... you need to have, but there are requirements for the bare minimum needed to get a Certificate of Occupancy sign-off. \

An outlet 6 feet from every corner and no more than 12 feet between outlets. So, in a 10 by 12 foot room, code would require only 4 outlets. Personally I like them closer to the corner and in a bedroom, one on each side of the bed. In the same room, I would double the number of outlets.

Don't forget about the garbage disposer. I like a wall switch instead of and air switch. They make one with a spring so that one you let go, the disposer turns off.

Make sure you specify better quality switches and outlets. Otherwise the electrician will install the least expensive ones possible. And, in 10 years, every time you look at an outlet, the plug will fall out.

Ask for a whole house surge suppressor. That will help with the bigger appliances. But, continue to use surge suppressors whenever you plug in any thing that is electronic. And, for your TV's with surround sound,etc.. use a UPS. It helps.

If you like can lights, use can lights. Others on this sight like to poo poo them as energy wasters and they can leak air. Which they can. Ask your builder to seal them in with either a foam box or similar.

Design your home with LED's in mind. My wife and I bought a fixer-upper to live in while I remodel it. It is a 3 year project. Every single light fixture we have installed has been designed to an LED. Not just meant to be used with an LED bulb. (We use those too in floor lamps, etc. ) and we spend the extra money (within reason that is) to get higher efficiency appliances. The payback may be a long time, but the rebates help in the short-term.

One last thing, the last time I built a house, which was a long time ago, the builder charged $90 for every outlet/switch/overhead light rough-in. When I put in an addition, about 12 years ago, it was $100. And this was in an upper middle class suburb.

Good Luck, have fun, and enjoy the process.

If you haven't built a home before, you will be amazed at the amount of decisions you need to make.

Dan

One last thought, design for the future. Talk to your lighting designer about future lighting needs as you get older. Make sure your hallways are wide enough for someone with a walker or wheelchair. (I needed a walker 2 years ago due to a brain injury, thankfully I don't need it anymore) Levers are easier to use than door knobs. Just my two cents as I look to turning 60 this year.

$100 is a lot for an outlet (in a custom build). That is a HCOLA or a big markup. My last time is was $35 and I think it is still the same or really close.

I was also charged a bit to move from standard code - and then extra for the usual required extra outlet.

Consider outlets in baseboards on the side. Consider outlets down low on the side of kitchen backsplash. Consider 4 in cans instead of 6. Think about your 3 way switches and if you want separate switches for ceiling fans. High outlets for wall mounted TV's.

David,

That was just the way they looked at things. It didn't matter if it was just a single duplex or quad. A ceiling fan or pot light. Any "electrical hole" to be added was a $100.

That was my biggest arguing point with the GC.

After framing the addition, getting the roof shingles and Tyvek on, and one more payment. They called a few days later and told me they were out of business. Thankfully, I didn't lose much due to overpayment.

I took over as GC and finished the addition. Using the original budget for electrical, I got a new main panel upgrade, a new sub-panel, upgraded lighting, heated tile floors and enough duplex outlets to meet my wildest dreams. All done by myself, (except for the main panel upgrade and sub-panel install) permit pulled and inspection passed. (The electrical inspector asked if I was a licensed electrician. I said no, but I play one on TV. He said I should consider it in real life. ) It was all done for about half the original budget. Granted, I didn't charge my labor, but, at a buck an hour, it didn't at up to be that much.

$100 is a lot for an outlet (in a custom build).

Depends on your location. The last house we built, in 2001 in the Chicago 'burbs, it was $250 per drop. That's with metal conduit, though, as romex wasn't allowed.

I provide an electrical plan. I’m not going to invite an electrician to charge my client by the added outlet or fixture. It could be thousands of $. Why bother bidding if you’re going to do that?

This is all specified In the National Electrical Code which is made part of the IRC and other state codes by reference. Differences might arise from which edition is referenced or state amendments so rely on your electrician especially for the type of protection required for receptacles.