As mentioned, we've been working hard to get this back for customers, and we're getting close to stocking it soon in the single loop. One upgrade will be to use a thicker wire than the old double loop fencing produced state side the last 150 years. Some of the pictures posted in this forum show the irregular weaving, which probably resulted from using thin 11-gauge wire on the old fence. For folks with an eye on quality, we think the 8 gauge wire single loop fencing makes a better pattern and elegant design possibilities for a premium bungalow style. We'll be shipping from the central United States. Call us at 866.514.2733 about your project.

Hi all, First, thank you all very much for your input. I was away all weekend with poor cell service and no laptop, and I hate trying to type on a phone! This future pool area electrical will be permitted and I am planning on using a qualified electrician - I'm thinking to use someone recommended by a reputable pool company as I imagine your run-of-the-mill generic indoor tract home stuff is different than outdoor, underground, large gauge, pool-related, etc. The safety of my family and friends is paramount, as is avoiding any long-term liability. As with other house projects, experience has shown me that I'm better off pre-understanding everything to the best of my ability so that I can select, communicate with, and challenge any professionals where I do need to retain one. I find that I do many things better myself, but I will certainly admit that I do not have the personal experience with this type of wiring and it's critical to get right. My engineering background generally gets me over-thinking or over-working a problem, but it hasn't steered me wrong yet, and ultimately landed me here to make sure I am approaching this correctly so I am happy about that! I tend to oversize things, which I think is generally better (not too many people come back and say "Gee, I'm sure glad I went with the smaller panel and circuitry," but they do say "Dang, I'm out of capacity, I wish I would have gone bigger!") That said, I am trying to avoid making the conduit and wiring so large that it's difficult to interface with later in terms of future connections, into the planned in-ground vault, etc. I get the feeling that my initial 100A "worst case plan" is maybe waaay overkill, and I do need to put more thought into what my total appliances, etc. are and get amperage on them, and then make some assumptions about what total amperage may be running at any given single time, then hopefully that will inform my conductor sizing decision. Perhaps I'll find that I can downsize significantly. For now I'm just trying to decide what size conduit to put in the ground at this phase that for sure won't be undersized, as I am covering it up with concrete in the next few weeks or so. It sounds like I'll want to keep the voltage drop under 3%. If I did go with the worst case 100A and let's say that requires #1 copper per Mike Kaiser & David R (I'm curious to understand the difference between their conclusion and Ron Natalie's), I'd need qty (3) current-carrying #1 conductors, and a single #6 insulated copper ground to join sub-panel to main (see attached screen shot for size per NEC Table 250.66 for Grounding Electrode Conductor; based on other reading I think you don't consider it equipment grounding, rather conductor grounding, but please correct me if I am wrong). Per the conduit fill table (see attached screen shot), 2" Schedule 80 PVC can accommodate qty (7) #1 conductors and 1.5" Schedule 80 PVC can accommodate qty (4) #1 conductors. Over a 200ft pull, I'm assuming one would be ill-advised to go with 1.5" which can only just barely take the qty (4) sizeable conductors, so then the final question is: Will 2" be plenty to pull the worst case conductor size over this length? Again, I think I will only have 2 elbows due to consolidating into an electrical vault in the driveway with other items before crossing into the house. I don't have experience on long, heavy gauge pulls that's for sure! Looking at the cost, it's like a $30 so that's no reason not to. Thank you again for all your input. - Danny

I just made my sixth trip between the garage and my shed. There is a negative to having a remote shed where you keep all of your garden tools. It is often overlooked when considering a shed. When you have your new shed and have your garden equipment neatly arranged in the shed you think you are done. Not so. You need some sort of work shelf and a complete set of tools in the shed, unless you plan on making many trips between your garage and shed to get tools from the shed. At minimum you will need a complete set of wrenches to remove battery cables, change the head on your trimmer, and numerous other small task. You will need several screw drivers Philips, straight, etc in a couple of difference sizes. You will need several types of pliers, a hammers, some funnels, etc. Once you get the tools that you will need, you will need to organize them shelves, hangers and such. I am going out to the shed again.

Manasi, Since you can't afford a designer I'll expand on some of the steps to help with design. Like Owen said, you need to tell us how you want to use the space (make a program). Here are some questions I would ask a client to help narrow down a program: 1. Do you have, or plan to have kids in the near future? If yes, do you need space for a specific activity like a swing set or a basketball net? This can also help guide plant selection (poisonous or thorny) 2. Do you want to entertain? If yes- for roughly how many? Do you BBQ? 3. Do you have a dog or planning on getting one? If yes- do you want a dog run? a grass area? How big of a space would it need? (again animals can influence plant selection- some plants are poisonous to certain animals) 4. Do you want a vegetable garden? (Your current pics look like there was a raised vegetable garden. 5. How much yard maintenance are you comfortable with? a. I have a green thumb! I love all plants, flowers, shrubs and trees! I don't mind pruning, fertilizing, mulching and watering! I want my yard to look like an English garden and can commit to several hours a week in yard care. b. I don't mind a few plants but I don't know a lot/ or don't have time for significant plant care. I would like to minimize the work to mowing once a week, some watering and quick spring and fall tidy. I can commit to 1-2 hours a week. c. I like being outside but I am way to busy or have no desire to look after living things. 5. Do you need storage in your yard and does it need to be accessed year round? 6. Are there special activities you want to include such as: -a fire pit, a hot tub, a pool, a bocce court, a compost? After you can narrow down the above to define a program, start thinking about your site, the opportunities and constraints (inventory and analysis). Are there any views you love? Hate? Neighbours you want to block? Where are the utilities ( you can normally call and have them located for free in most municipalities? Where are your existing water taps? gas meter? Basement windows and doors. Locate existing large trees that surround or are in your property. Which way is north (if you are in the northern hemisphere) South if you are in the southern? Do you get snow and do you need a spot to shovel it to? Are there any existing low areas that don't drain? Sometimes printing out a google earth image and making notes on it can be helpful. If you're designing the yard yourself, you will want to take measurements of where things are and make a site plan. Once you have that you can start placing your program elements onto the site making sure to keep in mind any site constraints so they don't conflict with the activity. The commentators on houzz can provide more guidance if you can answer some of the above questions.