Ok folks here it goes. Although there are many things that can cause a Toro personal pace to make all kinds of noises I would like to let you know how to fix at least one issue. After excluding wheel grinding noises and adjustment issues here is an easy fix to the transmission grinding noise. This noise can occur even with good gears and no gear slippage. The problem is that Toro has not chosen to fix a tolerance problem in the transmission casting or case itself. Now make a mental picture of what I am about to say or be staring down inside the transmission housing and gears by removing the axle and transmission unit. The bearing sits in the bottom of the transmission housing then the pinion gear stem fits down through it to the pulley system. The pinion gear then engages the bevel gear on the axel. Now here is the problem; the bearing when sitting in the bottom of the case allows just enough disengagement to create a grinding or howling noise. You may think my solution is quirky but it darn sure has worked. I took a wrench socket and knocked the bearing away from the floor of the transmission case a bit. I then took a piece of baling wire shaped like a washer and worked it between this created space between the floor of the case and the lower or bottom side of the bearing. This moves the pinion gear and the beveled gear to exactly to the correct tolerances. Hence, no more grinding noise. I have a 2005 Personal Pace mower that is actually quieter than when it was new.

Well, just to update everyone on my decision and purchase... (Note: I tried to do this last week, but GardenWeb had a server problem which didn't allow me to Log In). After much research, visiting and "test driving" the Honda HRX217HZA and the Toro 20384 SuperRecycler (with Personal Pace) at our local mower shop, and talking with friends who own both brands, I purchased the Honda HRX217HXA, Given the excellent experience I've had with my 2003 Toro 20033 SuperRecycler, I was leaning very hard toward Toro. But, after testing both in my "real world environment" which includes quite a bit of mowing forward and backward due to all of the obstructions in the yard, the Personal Pace drive system was a bit awkward to use. Setting the Honda's "Cruise Control" of the HydroStatic drive at a convenient speed, and then just dropping the clutch bail when I need to reverse my tracks was much easier to use than the Toro's Personal Pace system. If I was just buying this mower for my use, and not also my wife's, I would have likely bought the Toro SR 20380 with the Variable Speed drive, instead of the Honda. At first, the Honda HRX was a bit intimidating with the two bails and two control levers, but after one mowing it's all very intuitive. Since this is my first walk-behind mower with the self-propelled feature, I must say it does make the job of mowing the lawn much easier. I do have one rather steep slope near our driveway that is more difficult with the Honda, and that's primarily due to the weight differential (Honda 102 lbs. vs. my old Toro 69 lbs.). The Honda wants to slide sideways down the slope when I'm mowing across the slope. The electric start is a very nice feature, and a God-send for my wife. The overall cut and mulching quality of the Honda appears to be on par with my old Toro with the SR deck design. One strange thing that I've noticed is that with the Honda it's a bit difficult to see the "track of the cut line or path" while mowing, whereas that was never a problem with the Toro. Why this is so, I really don't know, but I've found myself re-cutting paths that I've already cut with the Honda. Overall, I'm very happy with the Honda HRX, but check back with me in 10 years for a long-term comparison with my still like-new Toro 20033 SR push mower! ;) Thanks again for all of the input from everyone! saxman1... BTW, I have decided to restore the old Lawn-Boy Model 5274 2-stroke... I have found a person willing to rebuild and restore the D601 engine, so I will have a 19" easy-to-push trim mower here soon as well.

mark, i'm a big fan of the old hondas. i've never had a problem with grass building up to a point it stops the engine. are your wheels raised to the highest level? when the grass is extra tall, what i do is take a bungee cord and attach it so the rear door is open and the grass just shoots out, be careful not to be running over foreign objects. wear sturdy pants and safety glasses. you can clamp a mat or something to the cross bar on the handle to deflect the clippings. if you're bagging, make sure your bag is clean.

Don't apologize for your post -- it's helpful IMO to have various Honda snowblower problems collected on one thread. Your problem falls outside my experience, but I can tell you how I'd start, at least. First, make sure your hydrostatic transmission fluid level is correct. I don't check mine as often as I should, and if it slowly dropped (or quickly due to a seal giving way or something) I might not notice right away. I have no idea whether low fluid could cause this condition, but checking it is a good idea regardless. Second, if you don't already have one, consider buying a service manual. You may be able to find one at a dealer but if not they can definitely order it or you can get it online. It may or may not help you diagnose this problem, but it allows you to approach any repair with greater confidence -- or figure out in advance that you're in over your head. Next, make sure you've got access to exploded views of the whole machine. You can find them using the link below. After that, flip the little transmission engage/disengage lever that you use to allow the machine to be pushed. If the problem persists with the transmission disengaged, it's almost certain that you have a problem internal to the transmission. Next, assess the overall feel and action of the controls. Does the drive clutch lever feel normal? Does it have that slight "over center" feel (i.e., a relaxation of the spring pressure) as you get it close to the handlebar? Does the normal interlock action between the drive clutch and the auger clutch work normally (i.e., if you hold the drive clutch and then engage the auger, can you release the auger lever without it disengaging until you release the drive clutch)? Does the hydrostatic transmission control lever feel normal and have its normal range of travel? If any of this is wrong, I'd start looking at the engagement levers and the adjustment of the cables. Beyond that, if it were me, I'd probably be looking for a pro. Good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: Honda snowblower exploded parts views