Optimum levels of organic matter in solils is btween 5 and 8 percent, so while not quite there you are getting close. Soil pH, for most plants, is in the 6.2 to 7.0 range, so while a bit low yours is okay. Nutrients you want in balance, not too much of one and too little of another which is where the problem lies. Nutrient imbalances create more problems then they solve. Nitrogen is dependant on soil warmth, bacterial activity. When soils are cool and there is little bacterial activity there is not much N available, but as soils warm, and the bacteria become more active more N is available to the plants. Nitrogen sources with readily available N, soluble types, can make it look like there is ample N in the soil but that will also wash out of the soil quickly with excess water and is the source of nitrate pollution of ground water.

"nowhere in the installation or selling or sales training does there appear to be the sensible question for second floor installs, which is placement close to the bearing wall.. Actually almost all manufacturers have a statement regarding positioning the washer in a corner and possibly adding a sheet of plywood to the floor to increase rigidity. Frigidaire, GE, Bosch, LG, Maytag, and Whirlpool all make similar statements like the Miele but Whirlpool probably does the best job of explaining the "how and why". I've also seen toploaders have the same problems with vibration on second floor installs so it's not unique to just frontload machines. As to adding double stick tape. I have seen floors where the concrete or tile was very slick and no matter how well a machine was leveled the unit would scoot. I have actually started carrying tread tape in my truck which looks like heavy coarse sandpaper with a sticky back. I cut 2 in squares and stick it to the floor where the feet sit to give the feet something to grip.

thanx everyone for all the interesting replies. (keep mailing if you like) I have followed up the various web links and found lots of interesting details about oca. The link to "Lost Crops of the Incas: Little-Known Plants of the Andes with Promise for Worldwide Cultivation" was great, I am now wondering just how oca ended up in NZ. I never realised it had such an interesting background as it was and still is just a common vegetable. Certainly delicious roasted but I like boiling them like potatoes. Certainly it is a favourite of mine and many that mailed me. As yet to find any in Sydney, but will ensure I have a good feed next time I am in NZ

Sure headmotty, NP. I'll give it a shot here. Feel free to ask for any clarification. Before we start, fight the urge it get adjustments done ASAP and in one shot. Keep in mind that it is best to make changes slowly. This avoids imbalances in the soil and stresses to the turf and gives the amendments time to work their way into the profile. Especially true when changing pH. Also keep in mind that there are maximum yearly/per app amounts that should be made for the various amendments, however this is not an issue for you. The method: 1. Determine the amount of phosphorous in P2O5 needed to reach your goal. In your case you selected 200 lbs/acre of P2O5 as your goal. Your test reports a current value of 106 lbs/acre. Your soil is 94 lbs/acre of P2O5 short of your goal. 2. Calculate the amount of P2O5 needed for 1000 sq feet by dividing the needed/shortage acre amount by 43.5. 94 lbs/acre shortage divided by 43.5 = 2.16 lbs/k of P2O5 is needed to reach our goal of 200 lbs/acre. 3. Determine the amount of potassium needed to reach your goal. You've selected a goal of 300 lbs/acre of potassium. Your test reports a current value of 198 lbs/acre of potassium (K). Your soil is short 102lbs/acre of K and 102lbs/acre of K is needed to reach your goal. 4. Calculate the amount of K needed for 1000 sq feet by dividing by 43.5. 102 divided by 43.5 = 2.34 lbs/k of K (potassium) is needed to reach your goal of 300 lbs./acre of potassium. Caveat: What follows is only true for NPK fertilizers. It is not necessarily useful for the use of SOP, MOP or TSP (sources of pure potassium or phosphorous fertilizers). 5. Make the numbers match: The test reports P as P2O5. NPK fertilizers report P as P2O5. We're good with the numbers matching up. The test reports K as K, but NPK fertilizers report it as K2O. Need to convert. To convert K to K2O, we need to divide K by .83. So, 2.34 lbs/k of K divided by .83 = 2.81 of K2O. 6. Determine the total amount of N to be applied and the number of application of fertilizer to be made this year. This will depend on the type of grass and, as NPK fertilizer contain N (nitrogen), the recommended N schedules for the grass in the lawn. (e.g KBG: 4-5 apps Memorial Day, Labor Day etc.) However, as a one time off situation, we can digress a bit. We could add an extra 1/2 N app on May 1 or add the 1/2 app for July 1 or August 1 or both, etc. We want to avoid applying when the ground is frozen or within 6 weeks before the ground freeze or at the peak of summer or we cpuld cram 5 N apps into 4 by applying 1.25 lbs in each of 4 apps. Just to make this more complicated, it is best to spoon feed by applying an app every 2 weeks rather than all at once. 7. Once you determine the total annual N amount you wish to apply, divide the P and K amounts by that total N amount to find your ideal NPK ratio. Example: Assume 5lbs/k of N is your desired annual N amount. Divide 2.16 lbs of P2O5 by 5= .432 Divide 2.81 lbs of K by 5 = ..563 So your ideal ratio is 1:.432:.563 Round off as fertilizer only comes in whole numers, I suggest rounding down, as you can always add more and it's impossible to take it out of the soil. So, 1:.4:.5 (1 nitrogen, .4 P and .5 K), 10-4-5, about 15,-6-8, 20-8-10, about 25-10-12, 30-12-15, etc. Shop around. For 10-10-10: For every 1 lb of N, you'll apply 10 lbs of product. 10lbs of product times 10% = 1 lb of P2O5 will be applied. You only need 2.16 lbs of P2O5, so 1.16 lbs of P2O5 left to apply to reach the target. One more app and you should quit or you will go over. For K, 10 lbs time 10% = 1 lbs of K2O has been applied. Target is 2.81 lbs of K2O, so 1.81 lbs K2O left to go. Still need two more apps to slightly exceed our goal. For 10-20-15: For every 1 lb of N, you'll apply 10 lbs of product. 10lbs of product times 20% = 2 lb of P2O5 will be applied. You only need .16 lbs of P2O5 left to apply to reach the target. Slightly under. No more apps needed. For K, 10 lbs times 15% = 1.5 lbs of K2O has been applied. Target is 2.81 lbs of K2O, so 1.31 lbs K2O left to go. Another App will moderately exceed your K goal, but immensely exceed your P goal. Remember, these are ranges. Trying to be exact if somewhat futile, but we need something to guide us. It's up to you to decide how much over or under your target is acceptable, but do stay within the guidelines and try to accommodate spoon feeding. If you get P within around 200 + or - 20 to 30 (an addition of 1.6 lbs of P2O5) and K anywhere over 220 (that would take only an addition of .6 lbs of K2O), you're in great shape. The wild card, unfortunately, is that lime. Look for something with a lower P (second number). That way you can make up any P shortage with a starter fertilizer. (kind of a mix and match approach.) The lower the overall numbers, the more you can spread it out with spoon feeding. Does that make sense? If not, ask away.