KT’s personal New layout FAQ
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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bathroom tile FAQ's
Comments (64)I changed the entrance of my shower tub. The panel board was moldy; water was getting in between the top tiles and the panel board. the joint was not well sealed. I put new everything for the entrance, even a membrane between the plywood and the tiles. However, it seems to leak from the wall now. Water is coming out of the wall outside the shower tub. Would it be the grout, tiles...? Tiles and grout are probably 20+ yrs old ( turquoise tiles). I tried to put some ready grout ( in a tube), but it still leaks! Calking is well done. Should I remove the old grout and put new one everywhere? Thanks for your help!...See MoreFAQ -- How do I get more responses to my posts?
Comments (3)Layout Help Threads... Issue: Lack of Pertinent Information...Some people don't read the "Layout Help" topic and post asking for help without giving us very much information about the poster's goals, family composition, plans for using the space, etc. Trying to design a kitchen in a vacuum of knowledge can be frustrating and can lead to "generic" kitchens and lack of responses because it's too labor and time intensive to draw the information that we need to help with a layout out of posters. See the "How do I ask for Layout Help and what information should I include?" FAQ topic. Often, the layouts themselves don't have enough information for us to work with. A full set of dimensions is very helpful! (again, see the "Layout Help" FAQs topic). If you're trying to decide whether to post a computer-generated drawing that shows the elevation (things shown as they will be against a wall with cabinets, etc.) vs an overhead plan (2D as seen from overhead) - choose the overhead! It can be computer-generated if it has alldimensions, etc.or a hand-drawn diagram using graph paper. Issue: Layouts with dimensions that are difficult to read. If I have to open a layout image in another window and fiddle with resizing and then still not be able to read the dimensions, I often bag it and move on to another thread. If you need to draw a layout/floorplan up by hand, keep in mind that it takes no drawing skill. All you need to produce a drawing to post here are: Good measurements of the room Graph paper which you can download and print from the web if you don't have any on hand Pencil & eraser (for sketching in the first lines) Straight edge (ruler, piece of plastic, triangle, etc., because even with graph paper it's easier to draw against a straightedge, and most kitchen lines are straight) Dark, fine or extra fine Sharpie (or similar marker/pen) to go over the pencil lines before taking a picture of it for posting. Without the dark pen/marker, most drawings are too faint. A camera or scanner to convert the drawing into an electronic version for posting here Using graph paper forces you to pay attention to scale....See MoreBacksplash Basics - New FAQ?
Comments (60)FOR TAMARA AND THE FAQ I've gone back and reviewed what everyone has said and came up with the following: ================================================== Title Subject: How do I choose a backsplash and when do I choose it? =============== CONTENT BELOW ================== To the age old question, "Do I need a backsplash?", the short answer is yes. You need some sort of backsplash in wet zones to protect your walls, cabinets, floors, and subfloors from deterioration due to water infiltration, and in your cooking zone to protect your drywall from cooking oils, spills, odors, and cleaning chemicals. That said, plenty of Houzzers have chosen not to have a backsplash, or to delay the choice for budgetary or other reasons. To review some of these threads, search for threads with "ABB" (All But Backsplash) in the Subjects to check those out. (See the current "New to Kitchens" thread for more information regarding searching the Forum.) . How does one choose a backsplash? First, like every other process here, we encourage you to do some research on your own, then post your particulars and ask for feedback. One fundamental question you must consider before all others is what is the focus of your space? Cabinets? Counters? Backsplash? Something else? Multiple focal points are generally not recommended, so determine what you want for your focal point and select your backsplash (and other components) based on your preference. For example, bold counters and attention-grabbing backsplashes rarely work well together. How do you determine your preferred focus? Look at pictures of Kitchens you like as well as those with various items as the focal point. Some will have simple cabinets and floors with a busy/bold counter and calm/simple backsplash. Others will have simple cabinets, floors, and counters with a busy or commanding backsplash. Which do you find yourself drawn to? The images of the Kitchens you like will help you determine which you prefer – is there a pattern to what you like? Another consideration is whether you want a backsplash that's only a few inches tall, one that goes to the ceiling, or something in between. You don't have to have a backslash that covers every inch of wall. In some cases, you don't need a backsplash (e.g., an island sink or cooktop), but that's rarely the case. In most situations, at least a small backsplash is needed in key locations. . To Wait or Not To Wait There is no right or wrong answer – many Houzzers have done both. Wait…Waiting to buy your backsplash until you have had your counters installed allows you to see samples in your space and in your light throughout the day with your actual installed materials and with proper orientation/location (e.g., backsplash samples should be vertical between the counter and upper cabinets, flooring should be horizontal below the cabinets when viewing). For example, if your installed cabinets are warmer than you expected or your counters cooler, you are free to search for a backsplash material that can pull things together. The only drawback to waiting is that you may have to wait for your backsplash material to be fabricated or to arrive, causing possible delays in the completion of your space. Don't Wait…Choosing your backsplash in concert with your other materials, prior to demo, allows you to be certain they all work together both in terms of design and cost. This keeps you from running the risk of falling in love with a backsplash that doesn't look right with your already installed counter or fit within the budget that is leftover after you have made all of your other choices. There are also advantages in terms of lay outing things like electrical outlets to best work with your chosen backsplash. Finally choosing your backsplash before demo starts allows you to order any necessary material so project completion isn't delayed. However, a major drawback to this is that you are making decisions on colors and finishes based on samples -- sample cabinet finishes, sample counter swatches, sample backsplash materials, etc. -- and samples don't always represent the final product accurately. If you are in the "pick all the elements now" camp, consider creating a "mood board" to get at least an idea of how things will look together. In addition, bring home samples to at least check how they will look in the light of your Kitchen – both natural and, if possible, artificial light. The majority wisdom on this site favors waiting, if that is possible. Regardless of which approach you choose, you should consider your backsplash as one part of the whole picture of your beautiful new space! . Inspiration Images These really help you to focus on what your kitchen as a whole will look like. They also give the folks responding to your queries an idea of what you like so they won't recommend, for example, white subway tiles if all your inspiration images feature hand painted Mexican tile. As mentioned above, search the web for images of kitchens with your other materials (white cabinets, walnut floors, etc.) and select which ones you like the best. What type of backsplash do they have? The idea is not to copy the look, but to get a feel for what you like and communicate those likes to others. . Budget Finally, we'll need an idea of a materials budget. Installation can account for half of the budget for a backsplash, so take that into consideration in your planning and deduct accordingly. Let us know how much you want to spend in $/sf for your materials and/or overall cost. It's not very helpful falling in love with a handmade tile in a custom glaze if it costs $100/square foot and your budget for tile is $10/sf, but Houzz Kitchens Forum members are fantastic at finding similar (and occasionally the same) tiles for less money. Without budget numbers it is very difficult for us to truly be of help to you. (Be aware that labor costs will vary by the area where you live as well as how complex your installation will be.) . How we can help The way it works is that we can recommend a surface (usually tile, sheet glass, metal, slab stone or laminate), advise for/against a choice (color, or busy-ness are the usual things discussed), provide you with layout and pattern feedback, and find images you might have missed of materials that have worked for us or caught our eye. For example, you might ask: "How can I find a backsplash tile to go with my green floors, counters, and purple cabinets?" The answer might be that you have to paint your cabinets or change your floors to make it right, or maybe some Houzzer somewhere will show you an image of a kitchen with a painted tin backsplash that pulls it all together. It has happened! Some Houzz members are great at photoshopping images together to give you an idea of what a small sample of your backsplash might look like in your space. It is time and effort on their part that can be truly helpful. Remember to say thank you! . . Regardless of our advice, remember that it is just that, advice. In the end, it's your Kitchen and it's up to you what you want to put in it – take or leave the advice we give, but at least you are making an informed choice and know the pros & cons of your choice! We hope we can be helpful and good luck with your project! . . . [Eam44, Crl_, Buehl, and other Houzzers]...See MoreNew build kitchen layout advice needed
Comments (16)Here's an idea: The counters and cabinets along the perimeter are all 3" deeper than standard: 28.5" deep counters 27" deep base cabinets 15" deep upper cabinets The deeper cabinets provide a lot more storage and the deeper counters provide more workspace. If your cabinetmaker does not offer 27" deep base cabinets, then simply pull standard depth base cabinets out 3" from the wall. Most, if not all, cabinetmakers offer 15" deep uppers. The Cleanup Zone and Dish Storage are near the Dining Room for ease of setting the table and cleaning off the table. They're also a direct shot from the Living Room. Dish Storage is in a 30" wide dish hutch. The upper cabinet goes from the counter up to the ceiling (or however high your uppers go). This gives you a lot of storage space for dishes, glasses, etc. With the deeper counters, the upper cabinet of the hutch is 15" deep so you can fit all your plates and platters. The two Prep Zones are separated from the Cleanup Zone, which allows you to have someone cleaning up while others are prepping/cooking. With two "primary" Prep Zones, you can have two people doing major prep work at the same time. It also provides you with a choice of where to prep - on the island or b/w the range and cleanup sink. As your toddler grows up, s/he will be helping in the Kitchen, so you will each have your own space! It also allows guests, etc., to help out during get togethers. With the prep sink offset, you have a wonderful expanse of workspace for large projects such as baking, cookie decorating, crafts, school/science projects, wrapping gifts, staging food during parties, etc. Both the MW drawer & wine cooler are on the sides of the island to keep people out of the main work zones. It really doesn't matter which side of the island they're on - you can switch them. I can argue for/against both arrangements. The refrigerator & freezer are on the periphery of the Kitchen for the same reason. The trash pullout is located so it's easily accessible from both Prep Zones, the Cooking Zone, and the Cleanup Zone as well as on the periphery. Small Appliances...There's a mixer lift for your stand mixer and the other small appliances can be stored in the 27" wide drawer bank across from the mixer lift. No appliance garage, but in all honesty, most people end up taking them out when they remodel b/c they take up too much counterspace and the what counterspace there is in front of the garage is useless b/c you don't want to block access. Better to store them where they can be easily accessed without having to move things around or even to shuffle appliances around in a smaller space inside a garage. With the drawers, they're all accessible without shuffling or taking up valuable counterspace. If there's room, you could also store them in the Pantry - 12" deep shelves hold the vast majority of standard small appliances. Cookbooks could be stored in the shelves of the 24" upper cabinet, if you'd like. I ended up storing mine in an upper cabinet next to my hood b/c I forgot to plan for them and that location is actually working out quite well! They're right were I need them! If you have dozens of cookbooks, they probably won't all fit, but you could at least store your most used cookbooks there on 1 or 2 shelves. I put in the Savigny range. It's still quite large, but at least you gained a few inches of workspace! The pantry is a reach-in, possibly step-in pantry with only 12" deep shelves. Built-in pantries are much more efficient and flexible storage if their shelves are not too deep - and they're less expensive! They provide a full view of what you have so there's no opening/closing drawers or roll out tray shelves looking for something Shelves can be adjustable for not only flexible storage initially, but if your needs change later, you can re-adjust them. If needed, you can store larger items on the floor. You have access to the entire space for storage - floor to ceiling. You can even use the side walls to hang a broom or mop. The "sweet spot" for pantry shelf depth is 12". Just about everything will fit on 12" deep shelves - cereal boxes, rolls of paper towels, cans, boxes, small appliances (food processors, mixers, blenders, breadmakers, standard size toaster ovens, toasters, waffle irons, etc.). The shallow depth doesn't allow you to store things too deep so things do not get lost. If you're concerned about organization, get bins or similar to organize smaller items on the shelves. The problem with 24" deep pantry cabinets is that they are not particularly flexible, things get lost in the back and in the "middle" of the roll out tray shelves (especially those above your chest), and if you're not quite sure where something is, you have to open/close multiple drawers/roll out tray shelves looking for the item. In addition, you only have "access" to the internal height of the pantry cabinet - usually quite a bit less than floor-to-ceiling b/c of toekick and limited cabinet heights available, Oh, and they're expensive. . Layout #1: . Layout #1 Zone Map: ....See More- 8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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