The voltage "disappears" because your meter is reading junk. Its impedance is so high that it can read "phantom voltage," even when the circuit's resistance is so high that no usable current can flow. When you put a real load such as a light bulb on the circuit, the truth is revealed. :) A low impedance tester (example) will give you more realistic results. For a cheaper low impedance tester, get a rubber pigtail socket and a small (7-25 watt) INCANDESCENT bulb at the hardware store. If you have a soldering iron or gun, tin (coat with solder) the wire ends to stiffen them so they're more like tester probes. In your case, the circuit is open somewhere. A failed switch is a strong possibility. Use your low impedance tester to check both switch terminals (put the white wire on the metal box, or on a bare ground wire in the box, and touch the black wire to each switch terminal in turn). Careful when working with live circuits! With the switch on, both terminals should light the bulb. If not, replace the switch. If you get real voltage at both switch terminals, but not at the black wire in the light's box, post back and we'll dig deeper. The link is for illustration, and is not an endorsement of the product or vendor.

I like both of the leds that ci-lantro posted. We have one horizontal one over a 24" vanity in the standard 5' x 7' guest bathroom, with 10' ceilings, and it lights up the room more than adequately. Yes, there are additional high hats over the tub/shower, but unless someone is using the tub/shower, those lights are never turned on. Edit: PS - I love that tile and yes, fixtures should have square edges, not round.

Have you converted the switch to a dimmer? Then you can control the light quantity output.

This article gives various suggestions for how to remove the logo or other printing from the base of a light bulb. Knowing you can remove the printing could widen your search results! www.houzz.com/discussions/2668497/removing-printing-from-the-end-of-light-bulbs