"Could this be the result of a broken pvc pipe in the ground somewhere?...or maybe a severe blockage? " Lets assume the valve you installed is working ?? Maybe not a good assumption. Sure .. could be a leak .. maybe on a nipple to a head or somewhere else .. or maybe roots closing off a pipe. Should not be a blockage per say unless you have reason to suspect materials entered the system ... construction / renovation to the system. Did dirt enter the line when you added the new valve ?? You could pop off a head and check flow ? Could it be that your heads were all turned down or shut off ?? Is your valve stem openned all the way ? Check for soft spots or mounds in the grass ... cheack carefully around heads for leaks .. Good Day ...

eo - it is all about time or lack there of. I could water by hand (at night) but then i wouldn't have time for other things so by letting a computer do the watering i get a chance to mulch or see my kids bfore they go to bed etc. I do understand about getting into the garden to see what is happing and that is why i really enjoy cutting my lawn but i had to hire a landscaper to that the past few years as well and i hate it - they do a crappy job and i hate to spend the money on sopmething i used to enjoy melissa i have used hunter sprinkler parts for years and have them with my current system and they are great but i have never done anything with drip i installed a mist system in one of my smaller hosta beds and it worked great and am very happy with the results until one of my dogs ate some of the mist nozzles (no big deal to fix). I went with mist because; 1. i knew nothing about drip 2. it was easy to use with my current system 3. i figured the mist would look cool (by my little pond) 4. a few mist nozzles cover a fairly large area with a symple layout 5. it was cheap I ordered a bunch of mist nozzles from dripworks they were about 45 cents a piece and cover about a 10' diameter the only downside is you lose some of the water to the sun and you water the leaves (which has the benifit of cooling but negative of disease/rot blight) and wind will blow the mist easily

Like others, just wanted to give everyone thanks for the ideas and to show my experience (based on everyone’s suggestions). Was always afraid of cleaning my HD’s as they appear so shear. Even though my HD Silhouettes have been up for just over 20 years now, I have been hesitant to professionally clean due to costs (over $1000 dollars estimated-was told it was this or spend over $6000 to replace). Given inspiration by this thread, I decided to do it myself and wanted to “payback” the thread with my experience. Given the cost of professional cleaning, I decided to DIY since it I messed up, I would replace with something else that was not so delicate (called HD and they would not sell “replacement” fabric so would have to replace all units). I could not use the bathtub method as many of my shades are too large (7ft W x 5ft L). Also, did not want to use sheets on the ground or swimming pool method as I did not wish to risk tearing/delaminating the shade vanes and it would have been tough to get to the center of the shades to clean and rinse. I did purchase then returned a cheap $39 inflatable pool but decided it was not worth the effort. Bissel was an option but some said it was messy and I didn’t want to risk dripping onto white/beige carpet if using when shades were still hung. Instead, I hung the shades up on a pergola in my backyard with some bungie cords and 1” nylon webbing with plastic buckles I bought on Amazon for $7. I rinsed the shades (first with the vanes in an open position, then again on each side with the vanes closed) to get rid of as much grime as I could using a variable spray garden nozzle (started with flat spray, and increased to a jet spray). I then sprayed each side (vanes closed) with about 1/2 ounce Dawn (as degreasing detergent) mixed with 1:2 Oxyclean/water in a spray bottle. This was followed by a thorough rinse on each side using the garden hose on jet spray to get rid of all the remaining grime and stains (started from the top, working out from the middle to ”eject” the dirt out to the sides). I followed up by using a leaf blower to dry the Silhouettes so I could immediately hang them back up. I already had a cheap one that I use to blow excess water out of molding/crevices and grill work when I clean my cars but a SunJoe electric leaf blower can be purchased on Amazon for as little as $19. Again, I started blow drying from the top, working my way out from the middle to the sides to expel all the water (and get any excess water out of the headrail and bottom rail). I found that this worked best first with the vanes closed, then a light going over with the vanes in the open position. Because the material (at least of the standard Silhouettes) is some form of polyester, the material dried very quickly, with no puckering nor delamination. A couple of observations. First, much to my surprise, the polyester material (at least on the standard) Silhouettes is not as delicate as I first thought. I can’t speak for any other brand or material, but the Hunter Douglas standard ones are very resilient, just don’t poke the shear material! You can be quite vigorous with the water pressure, much more so than I thought, to thoroughly clean and rinse the shades. They are a quality product (at least the ones I bought over 20 years ago, and the price I guess reflects that). Secondly, I would recommend leaving them in a “down” position with the vanes in an open position once you hang them back up to ensure they thoroughly dry. They will not pucker so you don’t need to roll them up as one person suggested as this may lead to the headrail components remaining wet and the shades not completely drying. From removal to reinstallation, I got it down to about 20 minutes per shade (had a lot of practice, lots of shades, lol). For those that were asking for photos: Before (right side before cleaning), after cleaning (on left) of two adjacent shades, left side started even worse than right side (see second photo) since left side window opens. After is back to original color #128 misty almond: Another before photo of the left side (pretty gross!) Hanging from pergola before cleaning: After cleaning: Variable spray hose attachment: Spray mixture and bottle: Summary: about $35 worth of equipment used (plus the cost of soap and water) vs. over $1000. Can’t imagine that the +$1000 method would have significantly better results. Anyway, sorry for the long post. Hope it helps someone, YMMV.

..I do think crowding where roses are concerned is a collector's error... although in the wild everything gets crowded, but if a designer cast a once over at my garden, they would be horrified by my planting arangements.... ...I have a very few roses centred 1 foot apart, others 2 foot, but the bigger shrubs 4 foot or more... it does depend on location and variety and just how one is growing it... I mean, if you have a boundary fence, you may plant a rose against that fence, and your neighbour the other side may plant one too... both may be little more than the fence apart but they seem to grow alright... so I figure.... let them get on with it, as I will know soon enough all the mistakes I've made... ...then, I have to hope, I'll come to my senses and plant something more reasonable.... if this was a designer's forum,, you wouldn't see me for dust I'm afraid...