Everyone is saying "MULCH"! >> I have added several inches of mulch around the tomatoes and cucumbers >> I used a composted soil amendment as mulch Mulch is insulation. Like fiberglass insulation (which would work, in its own weird way!) the thicker the better. Also it's best dry on top, damp on the bottom where it touches that non-insulating soil amendment, and airy in the middle. Several inches isn't a lot if you are having problems that could be linked to heat and humidity. Tomato roots are impressive water sucker-uppers. IF they're healthy. Water and healthy roots do not add up to heat wilt, even without shade cloth. I have conditions similar to yours: heat, sun and wind. What the tomatoes DO have is gangster roots, and they haven't the slightest tendency to wilt. YET. Knock on wood. I just jinxed it, didn't I? Are you absolutely SURE that the watering goes down to an appreciable depth? Water it with a dribble for hours! Since there's no such thing as water wilt on a grown tomato that's not going to die, what do you have to lose? Then add another four inches of straw on the previous four.

I agree with susan! I have a few philodendrons and sometimes the yellow leaves happen! As long as new growth is happening, and the new growth looks healthy, there isn’t anything to worry about. Older leaves will die and be replaced by new ones. If it’s unsightly, you can cut them off. Definitely get in there and tease the roots because it’s pot bound, then do as suggested and re-pot. Philodendrons naturally grow on the rainforest floor where they receive dappled sun. I keep mine on a stand a few feet away from a window where they receive bright, but indirect sun and some light shade especially on overcast days. You’re plant is absolutely beautiful! I love it. Here’s a photo of my favorite phil. I have right now! They are such fun plants! I’ve since moved him out of that tiny pot I just thought it was a cute photo op haha

Tahitian is C. moschata, so it might have some SVB resistance (although I've heard from others in the South that the borers in your climate are more tenacious than they are here). Tahitian is pretty versatile climate-wise, I grew it both here, and when I lived in San Diego. BTW, on the topic of SVB. I usually cover my Maxima & Pepo squash plants with floating row cover over the egg-laying period, which if the weather allows, is close to 100% effective in preventing infestation. This year, the weather did not allow; rain just about every other day after transplanting kept me out of the garden for weeks. When I was finally able to examine the plants, there were dozens of eggs on each one, and moths were still visible. I tried spraying Neem on the eggs, which might have helped a little; but all plants eventually became infected. Some of the plants began to wilt, and it looked like they would all perish. Then it occurred to me to try a battery-operated water pick, on the holes beneath the frass. It doesn't hold much water, so I extended the pickup hose so I could use a large water bottle. Eureca!!! The pressure cleaned out the holes, and blew out many of the larvae. I think the water jet itself killed some of them. Then I sprayed Neem into the now open holes, to reach any larvae remaining. There has been no further deterioration since, and the vines continue to set new squash. This may be the most effective means of killing established larvae, with no cutting. Wear good eye protection, though, there is a lot of intense splash back.

The heat this year has made tomato gardening difficult in general. 90°F and up if hard for them, and being that they are potted plants, makes for an even more stressed tomato plant. Their root system can easily completely fill a 10 gal aquarium fish tank. 5 gal is really not enough without serious tending on the gardener's part. Watering every day, even twice a day when it's hot could be necessary (be sure to have good drainage). That all being said, tomatoes also need allot of sun. Like at least 6hrs of direct sun. I'm afraid you aren't getting the needed sunlight. Granted, pictures don't do justice and you insist they do. So I'll reiterate the need for full sun and move past that one. Genetics are another, very important factor. Heirlooms especially are susceptible to various stressors, like heat and sun or lack there of. Or, perhaps the cultivar is simply a thin stemmed plant? It's possible. To try a fix for your plants this late in the season. I'd second the Fertilizing. Tomato plants are heavy feeders (like most fruit bearing plants). Id also ensure solid drainage in the pots, and increase watering. You've also got the space, if hight isn't an option then go bushy. Judging from the natural vegetation around you, I'd say you got another 3 weeks of growth and flowing before any further fruiting would not have enough time to ripen before frost. Am i right in assuming frost around October? Anyway, i wish you luck! -Rob --