Are you in so cal, enjoying the Santa Ana winds? They make the tomatoes drink lots and lots of water. I have mine in containers, and have been running my drip system on extra cycles.

The soil in the background looks pretty dry. If a finger stuck in the soil a few inches from the plant does not find moisture, water.

(The plant looks pretty good and should pop back from a deep watering if that's the problem. Don't spray in the heat though, that can damage the leaves.)

Looks wilted all the way down to me, not just the top and I agree the soil looks dry but the top surface isn't a valid indication of water need. So stick your fingers deep in the soil. There is also some leaf roll present which usually indicates very inconsistent soil moisture levels.

How much water did you give it, what size is the pot (it could be root bound), and what growing mix?

And has anyone been spraying weed killers nearby? Lawn service for you or neighbors?

Dave

Is it wilted in the morning? If so, then give a deep soak.

But... also could be gophers. Gently tug up on the main stalk. Does it seem loose?

Kevin

Yes! Santa Ana's indeed! My sinuses agree!!!

Okay - so I gave it a deep soak - some lower leaves perked up - top of main stem looks a little worse...maybe it will recover with time? Wondering if the damage is permanent.

Tugged on the stem - it's solid.

It's in a 4'x4' raised bed, 18" deep, filled with native soil (sandy loam, LA river floodplain) and store bought soil organic matter soil amendment and compost mixed in. I treated the tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers with spinosad (captain jack deadbug) a couple weeks back to control worms that were eating everything up. The other tomatoes look okay - normal hot weather wilty. Though the pole beans' topmost leaves all shriveled and dried up this week too...they are in the same bed... related?

Blame the Santa Anas?

I'll mention a problem I've had with peppers, though to my knowledge it hasn't happened to my tomatoes.

A borer (grub) in the stem. It works (eats) its way down the stem and everything above it dies. Does the stem feel hollow? If this is the problem, just cut the bad part off and let a new shoot grow. And skoosh the grub if you can find him.

Check the stem in question. See if maybe these winds cracked and broke it.

It could be a case of fusarium wilt. But, I've only noticed it affect older plants. Down here in San Diego, the county will check plants for diseases for free. if you got a spare green bean plant to take to yours, might help diagnose. Call your county extension for more info.

I wouldn't blame the Santa Anas unless you weren't watering at all. Mine are looking fine all day long and I've barely watered. Younger plants though.. Maybe 18" high.

First time in this bed with tomatoes? I doubt it's the issue, but SoCal native soil sucks for the most part until you amend it for 10 or more years...LOL. Maybe the roots have gotten down to it and said," No! we no likey!" :(

You might also try posting in the Garden Clinic forum.

Kevin

This post was edited by woohooman on Thu, May 1, 14 at 22:50

I had a borer in a tomato stem several years ago. That branch didn't die, but it pretty much stopped doing anything.

I first noticed the round hole in the stem. I didn't know if it was an entrance or an exit (exit, I decided eventually).

i agree with woohooman. The photo looks to me like early stage of bacterial wilt. I'm sorry.

Hmm okay - to respond to some of the questions - yes, this is the first time gardening in this soil - we moved here last year, before that it was pretty much an abandoned back yard so no one growing anything as far as I know. Supposedly we have good soil here in Atwater village on the LA River floodplain - used to be agricultural land for that reason I hear. Two tomatoes in my other matching bed are getting tall - so I don't think the soil is stunting them. Before I planted I worked in worm castings, composted soil amendment (greenall soil booster and gardner and bloome composted soil amendment). I fertilized with Dr. Earth's Tomato/veggie fertilizer on April 6.

I pinched the very top of the stem which was completely dried up pretty much - cut the stem which looks fine to me, put it in water, no white stuff, (per a website about bacterial wilt) and it's not hollow.

My other tomatoes seem okay - one is also a little wilty all the way down - but so are my zucchini, cucumbers in the heat...

From what I've read up on bacterial wilt I should pull it right away - but they also say it attacks very quickly - if it isn't getting way worse, should I wait?

This is as of this morning - the one on the right seems okay so far - it is a San Marzano. Also, the sungold is F1 and TMV resistant...but I guess that doesn't help with bacterial wilt....

thank you all for your help! this is my first time really gardening veggies and am feeling very newbie! pardon my black thumb....

update: since I began writing this post - the san marzano has flopped over! soil is moist - but the sun is harsh today ....

How close are the plants to that wall? (It looks very close.) It's possible that the wall is reflecting sunlight and heat back onto the plants. And if the weather has been hot that sunlight/heat reflection can exacerbate things.

Rodney

Deleted duplicate.

This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Fri, May 2, 14 at 15:32

If I were seeing that in my garden I would use a watering can to water well at the base of the plant. I would wait an hour or so, and water it again. After that would put down some mulch to keep the water in the soil, and keep the roots nice, and cool.

Yes, now pretty much everything in the garden is curling/wilting - cucumbers, eggplant, pole beans, zucchini, peppers. I've rigged a shadecloth over the beds to see if that provides them some relief. Haven't watered again since soil is still damp. Has anyone used shadecloth during a heatwave to help diminish stress? It's currently 95 degrees and 13% humidity!!

It could be all of these things - bacterial wilt and stress but for now it's hard to narrow it down given the conditions -

On one bed I have the brownish shade cloth from Home depot which annoyingly doesn't state it's percentage of shade but it's what I have on hand. On the other, I've got a large piece of Harvest Guard floating row material as a shade - had anyone used this? I can't find anything about how much UV it blocks - certainly less than the regular shadecloth.

I'm looking for a place to buy 30% rated shadecloth but it seems weirdly hard to find...

The cloths are attached to the top of the trellis and angled across the beds at 45 degrees to allow air circulation...

LOL not very attractive but what the heck...

And yes, Rodney - good point about the wall - when it's cooler that can be an advantage but not today!

Tobacco farmers have traditionally used cheesecloth. I would estimate that to be about 25-30% shade, and would allow a lot of air flow.
-Terry

P.S., watch The Godfather, and see what shading Don Corleone used for his tomatoes.

This post was edited by terry_neoh on Sat, May 3, 14 at 2:03

You need to elevate the shade cloth at the front edge of the beds.

And figure that any time santanas blow, you will need to rig temporary shade and increase the watering.

I also suggest you add some mulch to help cool the soil as well as retain soil moisture a bit better.

Jean,
who gardened in So Cal for 30-some years,
and who sometimes encountered relative humidity of 6 percent due to the hot, dry santanas.

"Surround ", a kaolin clay product is extremely successful in protecting foliage and fruit from sun scald and heat stress, among other benefits.

Spray a coating on the whole plant every few weeks for season long protection, if needed. Used by professional growers of vegetables and tree fruits for many years, "Surround" can increase yield and quality, and reduces pest problems, too.

I use it every year in my veggie garden ....it also repels japanese beetles.

I'm in SoCal too mad I would recommend mulching along with what previous posters have said. Mulch will hold moisture in the soil.

Slowjane: when it's this hot, shade cloth definitely helps. You don't even need to use shade cloth -- old sheets work fine--- they block out more sun but it's usually just a few hours in the middle of the day here in SoCal; and for just a few days.

95F is the target number. Any extended periods over this causes the plants to stop setting flowers and fruit.

Mulch is a mandatory though. It's all about the root zone. If you can keep the soil somewhat cool, your plants can shrug off this weather no problem. When I saw the Santa Ana coming in, Monday I was out applying about 3" of mulch to my garden. I've watered deeply once throughout the whole week.

Kevin

I have no experience with SA winds but many of us grow tomatoes in windy 95 degree heat and they never look like that plant. So I'm having difficulty laying the blame for the appearance of that plant on the SA winds.

It also does not have the typical appearance of either of the wilts nor apparently any of the internal symptoms.

What is does have is the classic appearance of (1) a tomato plant that has been exposed to drift from herbicides. Thus my question above that hasn't been answered. It is herbicide application time of the year and every year we get photos of just such plants that have been hit.

Or (2) barring herbicide exposure, severe root damage. That can be caused by several different factors - all of which can be remedied IF they can be identified. To do that much more information is required or one of the plants has to be pulled and the roots examined.

Dave

I have added several inches of mulch around the tomatoes and cucumbers, leaving space around the main stem. I have read conflicting information about mulching peppers. I have a Shishito, Jalapeno and California Bell - should I mulch those as well or is it better to let the soil stay warmer and drier?

I used a composted soil amendment as mulch. (gardner and bloome).

digdirt - sorry I didn't respond about herbicide - I don't think we've been exposed to herbicide drift as there isn't lawn near these gardens. The neighbors have a dirt yard that doesn't get much attention. ;) and on the other side of the garage they have fruit trees - but the garage is in the way. We are in a 1920's era development in urban LA and the lots are modest - we are in the back corner of the lot so ours butts up against the backyards of other folks. But I can't see past everyone's fences so I can't be totally sure they aren't spraying. My guess is no.
And, oh boy I hope I don't have to pull a plant to look at the roots! It sure perked up overnight - does it give reason to hope?

I have to agree with Dave, something unusual and serious is going on. You said: "Yes, now pretty much everything in the garden is curling/wilting - cucumbers, eggplant, pole beans, zucchini, peppers." Herbicide drift or poison soil. You don't seem to know how the soil was treated before you moved there.

So, the wilted leaves got some life back in them? If so, I'd definitely rule out herbicide.

Yes. Mulch on everything. The regulation of moisture and temps will be aided so much. Especially when the middle of Summer and fall rolls around. Wilting on the peppers isn't so bad. In fact, as far as watering regimen is concerned, when you see your peppers wilted in the evening or morning, it's time to water --- water deep and thoroughly, let dry out to almost wilting, deep water, and so on.

Dave:

Santa Ana winds are dry winds that come from the east here in SoCal. Usually caused by a very dry high pressure system that parks itself around Utah or so for a few days. The winds( come across the desert(exacerbating the dryness) with very dry air and winds in the 30's-50's. Humidity is in the single digits sometimes. They're pretty common in the fall and winter but the winter ones are just awesome( 70 degree temps, bright blue skies(blows the smog out to the coast for incredible sunsets), and humidity in the teens. Occasionally we get one in the spring like now. We're back to normal 70's - 80's tomorrow.

It's really not that bad. 95 in a Santa Ana is much better than 80's in August and monsoonal humidity coming up from Mexico. But it can dry things out in a hurry.

Kevin

This post was edited by woohooman on Sat, May 3, 14 at 15:40

Poison soil? Yikes! I hope not.....;)

Thanks for the explanation of the Santa Ana winds Kevin. They are known as the "devil winds" for a reason. If they make my sinuses hurt it seems like they could wilt a plant with a quickness. It hit that first tomato first and the hardest - and I'm not sure why since it seems to be perking up. It's only been in the ground a month so maybe its roots were tender. Maybe the soil wasn't evenly moist and there was a combination of dehydration, stress, some root damage from dry spots. See the attached image from yesterday afternoon, and then this morning.

I will mulch everything - already gave everything a good soak, and have rigged shadecloths over both beds, made out of row cover material that cuts the light about 20% based on my meter readings. Enough to make a difference so far today.

SoCal really is it's own climate...

yesterday/this morning....

Part of the problem is that you're applying water only at each plant's base.

Instead, moisten the soil of the entire bed.

Doing so will help your plants develop more extensive root systems which, in turn, will keep them hydrated for a longer period.

Hello!

I just want to throw my 2 cents in. I just moved from the San Fernando Valley last month and learned the hard way not to grow any vegetable that requires full sun in the full sun SoCal offers! It's too harsh and during the middle of the day causes everything to wilt. My vegetables always did much better in dappled sunlight or with some sun shade. I think the only thing affecting your plants is being in full sun, especially since they perked up after you added the shade cloth.

Good luck! I just moved to Houston and I can actually grow things in full sun again lol.

Jessica: Don't take this wrong, but that's just nonsense. I've been gardening the last 12 years in a climate much like the San Fernando Valley and the only time I need to protect my plants with shade cloth is for a few hours at midday in August-October and I only do it when the temps are mid 90's or above and/or because I fear sunscald on my bell peppers.

Mulch, on the other hand, does wonders. Unless the smog intensifies sunlight, I call foul. Sorry. ;)

By the way, have fun trying to get flowers to set in that oppressive summer heat of Texas. I got to hand it to Texans, though.... How they get anything to grow there in the summer amazes me. :)

I agree with Jean001. Give the whole bed a good soak, mulch and let those roots take root. Remember about the peppers though -- water thoroughly, let wilt, water thoroughly, let wilt.

By the way, the tomato plant does look better. Keep us updated.

Kevin

Everyone is saying "MULCH"!

>> I have added several inches of mulch around the tomatoes and cucumbers
>> I used a composted soil amendment as mulch

Mulch is insulation. Like fiberglass insulation (which would work, in its own weird way!) the thicker the better. Also it's best dry on top, damp on the bottom where it touches that non-insulating soil amendment, and airy in the middle. Several inches isn't a lot if you are having problems that could be linked to heat and humidity.

Tomato roots are impressive water sucker-uppers. IF they're healthy. Water and healthy roots do not add up to heat wilt, even without shade cloth. I have conditions similar to yours: heat, sun and wind. What the tomatoes DO have is gangster roots, and they haven't the slightest tendency to wilt.

YET. Knock on wood. I just jinxed it, didn't I?

Are you absolutely SURE that the watering goes down to an appreciable depth? Water it with a dribble for hours! Since there's no such thing as water wilt on a grown tomato that's not going to die, what do you have to lose?

Then add another four inches of straw on the previous four.

Well, some people do not understand the mechanism of dry wind.
As Kevin just pointed out, that particular wind ( called Sana Anna) is so dry that its "Relative Humidity" is in teens. So it can dehydrate a plant given enough time, never mind causing wilt. The soil can be moist deeper where the roots are but the plant won't be able to get enough moisture thru the root system to replace what has been lost by evaporation. The higher the temperature the worse it get. The temperature alone is not responsible. In the dog days of summer , in GA, I have experienced many days where temperatures were in triple digits and at the same time the RH was way high too. So you wouldn't see severe wilting. But with the SA kind of wind, even 70F can cause wilting, maybe not as severe.

Listen to seysonn.

Those "out-of-towner" folk don't understand santana winds and their *extremely* low humidity. More than once while I lived in SoCal, I moved all my container plants to the shade, and rigged shade for plants in the garden- but still they wilted.

I've had less than 5% humidity with 95-110'degree temps and m plants look quite similar. We were at 3% last May, having dust storms and 100. I always shade starting when plants wilt a little.
I also mulch thickly, like 12" of straw or pine straw with a thick newspaper layer.
One year I did have some weird mold attack the roots when it got extremely hot. It was an ugly, white sheet of mold through the whole garden, starting in the hottest corner and spreading. Everything died within three days.

Thanks for all the helpful tips everyone. The heat wave broke and everything has perked up. I will add more mulch and have watered deeply. The very light shadecloth made from floating row cover material seems help a lot when the sun is so harsh and the air so dry. Hopefully the roots will beef up so that when the really hot days come around they'll be more resilient.

I'm not sure how I would fit 12" of mulch around everything however - I will add more but 12" seems like a lot for these beds and for seedlings like my cucumbers. Do you wait for them to get taller or just leave holes for them? And how much space should i leave near the stems?

Good to hear! You don't need THAT much mulch. 2-4 inches is fine. 2 now and maybe another 1-2 in a couple months when summer kicks in. Leave about 6 inches from the base of the plants and maybe clip the leaves that touch the mulch.

Kevin

Hi everyone - I just wanted to follow up and show you how my tomatoes are doing these days. They recovered from the intense wilt and I think it was a combination of inconsistent watering/inconsistent moisture in the soil and the dreaded Santa Anas. I have a shade cloth setup now to use when necessary (we shall see what happens in September/October yikes).

Also, it turns out it is a San Marzano not a cherry - I had mixed up the tags. LOL. Oh, and I had posted about BER with this plant - probably also caused by inconsistent moisture - and that's also cleared up. I have a new method of watering using a 32oz yogurt container with pinholes in the bottom which I set on the soil several inches from the base of the plants and fill up so that it slowly moistens the soil. I've also stopped pruning it so hard and am letting it branch out, though trying to keep it vertical. Now I am waiting for the first ripe fruit.

Just wanted to give an update and say thanks to all of you for your help! I am learning so much. And so much still to learn. ;)

And some actual fruit finally getting substantial post - BER ....