I see some misconception in the previous posts, so let me clear some things up. Ficus e. is not particularly picky about it's environment. It grows over a wide range of temperatures & light conditions and does well as long as you keep in mind it's a tropical tree. IOW, it likes temperatures always above 50-55* and it likes lots of light. This tree easily adapts to full sun. It does not like cold temps, particularly drafts, and it will drop leaves when you reduce light to individual leaves. I mentioned "individual", because simply rotating a tree that's in front of a light source will shade leaves that used to be in direct line with the light & possibly cause abscission of the newly-shaded foliage. They do NOT rebel when you improve cultural conditions (like more light or warmth), but will reward you with better vitality and an accelerated rate of biomass increase. Not fertilizing a plant that is not growing "could" be like not feeding a short child. The reason the plant is not growing could be that it lacks the necessary nutrients & is robbing other tissues in the plant to try to produce new growth. Nature is never in stasis. Plants that are not growing are dying. I.e. they are using more energy than they are producing. It is true that in zone 6, plants will not need much in the way of nutrient supplementation from around mid-Sep to about the spring equinox (mid-Mar), but you'll need to regularly supplement nutrients during the active growth cycle. Tomato fertilizer is very good for Ficus. Figs don't "like" to be tight or slightly tight in their pots. It reduces their vitality. We can use the effect of growing plants in a root-bound state to our advantage though. The first sign that a tree is being grown in a root-bound state is lack of node extension and smaller leaves. Your tree will remain more compact, but it will be at the expense of vitality. If I wanted to maximize growth, I would use a very large pot and a very fast soil (the fast soil guards against root-rot in over-potted plants). I'm not sure what is meant by ".... too big a pot and they're lost.", but the combination of a large pot & fast soil is how you maximize the o/a mass of your plant. Prune often. If you get in the habit of pruning back to two leaves, any branch with more than 4 or 5 leaves, and removing immediately any branches that do, or have the potential to spoil the outline/appearance of the tree, you/ll end up with a very attractive plant. Al

Sphagnum moss or sphagnum peat? Did you lift the plant from the pot and inspect the roots? What did you find? Al

Come to think about it, yes it has been in that pot for all these years. Add to that, I have never changed the soil either. It is certainly not distressed though... Why sell it? I simply have too many large plants. Maybe I will consider keeping this one and selling the 2 potted 6' tall Yucca trees ( 3' pots and 3 trees each). Here is a pic of one of them from a few years back. They are now about 1/3 larger and much more full at the base.

Don't divide it....you'll not be happy with the results and neither will your plants. It's a showpiece the way it is now, rather than presented as three separate, but spindly and scrawny individuals. I agree that excellent light is essential for best color and after a year, you may want to conservatively supply a soluble fertilizer. It's a lovely plant......you've done very well with it.