Athome: that picture showing 2.5" is for a single door model. It states that 'other models may require more'. I'm hoping you realize that with a single door, the hinge will be on the side away from the wall, unless you provide the additional space to the wall side. The location of the hinge pivot point and the thickness of the door will determine how much if any space is needed to the side in order to open the drawers. I've looked at a lot of fridges (I have a wall to the left as well) and some only need 90* while most need more to get the drawers fully open or removed completely. Don't forget any clearance issues on the right side between the door and the countertop. Some people forget this and are dismayed when they punch a dent into the door from the corner of the countertop.

All of the answers are wrong. I recently went through this and hired a pro to fix it. For $1400 he shoved some weather stripping in my 4 sets of french doors. This is a garbage fix. Finally I fixed all 4 doors myself. What you need is a bump threshold. M-D Building Products 69709 1-Inch by 3-1/4-Inch by 73-1/8-Inch TH153 Bumper Threshold, Bronze https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YUGSCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6VAqMTR5lSupb The bump threshold provides a solid aluminum bottom edge for the doors to seal against, with a silicon gasket. I used an oscillating saw to cut the bottom of the astragal so the astragal won’t hit the bump threshold. In my last house I had Anderson Architectural French doors. What I loved is that it was a single unit that included a gasketted seal on the bottom. Essentially a jam, just like on the top and sides. You could turn a hose on for an hour and you would not get a drop of water inside. They key is that the bottom has a jam too. So when I searched for a fix for my shitty-installed french doors on my new house, I wanted to reproduce this solid edge seal on the bottom. And after much searching I found the MD bump threshold. In addition I replaced the door shoes with M-D Building Products 43337 M-D... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKSFEAI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share And I replaced the drip caps: M-D Building Products 68734 1-7/8-Inch Vinyl - 36-Inch DB037 Door Sweep with Drip Cap, Bronze https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001M58S8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_pKixN4pHg3L89 I also recommend this adjustable stripe plate which helps make sure your door latch engages at the right place so you get that satisfying “thunk” when you close the door and feel it latch into place at exactly the right place for the door bottom to seal tightly against the bump seal. Defender Security U 9488... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K39BM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Overall, fixing a shitty French door installation isn’t easy. But if you are weekend warrior, then installing a bump seal might be for you!

those are just bipass doors that have been modified. There is a good possibility that the big box stores won't have the stile that you like but you would certainly do well to contact your local door and millwork shop and they could hook you up. They may even be able to customize them for you. I know that some shops here that would do that for a song. P.S. doors need to be true stile and rail built to do this mod Best of luck

You are welcome. I'd use WoW if they were here (same area) for my own house LOL. Anyway, the sliding door is under-serviced no doubt. And it's been replaced a few times as well in the last 20 years. Basically, there is something going on where a lot of debris and water get into the track. I think the exposure directly to the outside and a lot of yard debris (leaves, dirt from the ditch that blows up in windy weather, etc). And that starts the downward decline. Perhaps the last install was bad. But we really want to do away with a slider completely this time and simply avoid having to keep cleaning the track and servicing it. Even with a new sliding door, the shoulder surgeries have left their arms weak and I think it's best to avoid that type of door going forward