Well, I'm back .. for punishment or for info either way ... I never received any email updates on this thread so wasn't sure it was getting any attention or updates .. wow my surprise! Where to start .. well, we didn't hire a CG - which was a bit of a mistake in planning our back bathroom and car port area that was converted to a room - but nonetheless we're learning as we go, as many people do in their first reno. I'm not going to get into why this was converted into a room, we didn't do it, but the previous owners did. They had a leak issue in the room so we fixed it last year. This year we decided to take care of the room itself, and had no ideas what we wanted. We added radiant floor heating, raised the ceiling 2 ft (in the room not the bathroom because of joist limitations, ect), and had roughed in plumbing (without really thinking of a pre-fab shower pan or custom tile and custom glass - this was one of our costly mistakes). Not having a CG - or asking questions ahead of time - cost us. But we're happy with what we have. Now onto the work itself ... behind the walls are DensShield with latricrete HYDRO BAN and HYDRO BANî Sheet Membrane taped seams everywhere ... the grouting lines and tiles were vertical at the top because the house isn't square, and in fact neither are the walls. You'll notice in the picture the tiles get larger on the inside of the shower than they do on the outside. My tiler recommended the lay the tiles that way since the top row would then have a small piece which would be larger on one side than the other. A tapered subway tile Vs what you see now wouldn't have looked as good. So I took his advice. The shower pan he built as well and is in fact sloped 1.5" to the drain from where the glass will start (installation next week) - 2" actually to the inside of the drain. Anyway, we're happy with the job with what he had to work with, tile, colors, ect. The room was painted last night and once the toilet, sink and stacker washer/dryer are in, i'll re-post with the finished color and product - no matter how much criticism. This post was edited by tdub111 on Fri, Oct 24, 14 at 12:35

Samantha, Absolutely, lack of expansion joints could have also been the part of the problem, which is unrelated to grout joint size. When installing, manufacturer instructions comes first, then the standards second if there is missing or conflicting information and instruction. If there is a failure, an inspector (or a court) will first use manufacturer specs and instructions, because they are the liable responsible party in a claim, so their information takes presidence. Thats what installer must follow first if there is conflict, and if there is missing information, the TCNA/ANSI standards come in. Now, many manufacturers refer to the TCNA/ANSI standards. Additionally, some manufacturers do not offer all needed information which then the TCNA/ANSI standards kick in. Every installer should be well versed in both. There are many tile and stone manufacturers who still allow for ultra thin grout joints. In regards to the standards changes you mention in grout joint sizes, indeed the TCNA/ANSI has made recommendations for the first time concerning grout joint size and spacing. To completely understand the new changes you have to understand how recommendations are made. When they say "in general", these are not absolute standards. Simply guidance lacking any other source taking presidence. When they say "absolute", these are standards that are never to be strayed from. The new changes on grout joint width is an "in general recommendation" or situational recommendation. Ultimately, the project owner should choose the grout joint they desire. -from the TCNA website. Please view the TCNA link for more information. It explains it pretty well. If you have tile cut or manufactured to tight size tolerances, you can have any joint size you wish. Of course, as I stated before, not all tile is able to be installed with the ultra thin grout joints. Again this is situational. There is no absolute standard for tile joint width. Tile it is a finish topical product, relying on the subfloor/framing/substrate structure for rigidity and in-range deflection for its stability and structure. Now if you continue to believe otherwise, that the tile system itself aides in overall system stability and structural integrity and/or that grout joint size matters at all when tile sizing is withing parameters, I really dont know how else to convince you. Since this obviosuly matters a great deal to you, I would suggest you buy a copy of the standards. Its relatively inexpensive. Then you can read for yourself in context. Also I would suggest that you start reading up on tile manufacturers installation guidelines and instruction for various products you may be interested in, as they take presidence, although they usually are in line with the standards. Here is a link that might be useful: TCNA Standards For Grout

Maecom Technology, The studded walls have not been re-insulated yet following it's removal and mold remediation. The insulation company that is going to be doing the work told us if un-faced fiberglass bat insulation is used (which is the standard insulation done by the builder) then the insulation must be covered with a plastic. The mold remediation company recommends not using the plastic or paper faced bat insulation. I was hoping to either sheetrock the walls without a plastic vapor barrier or to shiplap the walls without using a vapor barrier. Thanks

Here are some pictures of before. wasn't horrible but I wanted something less formal looking. As you can see, we are widening the sides. My husband is doing the work. He has made a mantel out of rough cedar wood that will fit over the existing mantle. I plan on doing a tea & vinegar stain to make it look like an old beam. trying to get more of a country/farmhouse vibe going. thoughts/suggestions? thanks