Shiplap Installation in the Basement
gle2011
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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Installing laminate flooring over rigid foam insulation in basement?
Comments (22)3650 PSF is equal to 25 PSI..... Their dricore products are just massively overpriced, at least in the US they are. I think it is better to put down a foundation wrap (DMX), then 1" XPS foam (25-30 PSI). Assuming that the floor is flat, you could probably get away with putting flooring (with a membrane) directly on top of it. If your floor isn't flat, you probably will need a dedicated subfloor. I'd also be sure to use some kind of flooring that is somewhat rigid and install it perpendicular to the foam boards, so that if the foam boards do try to lift or sink, the flooring will add some rigidity to prevent it from mattering....See Moreinstalling shiplap
Comments (2)Typical installation is base over shiplap. Like Klem1 said. But you can also let the shiplap be its own trim to the floor and just run your base to it. typical base is 1/2"-5/8" thick while typical shiplap is 3/4" thick. Your base would finish nicely I to shiplap. While perhaps the added depth would make the base stick out from adjacent casing. And a tacky back bevel won't do, you probably don't know what a painted end or mitered return are.or how to make them. what is the scenario? Corner to corner? Section of wall? End wall? Middle of wall? Fireplace wall?...See Morei am planning to install a shiplap accent wall and want a sample
Comments (5)I'm guessing a product you saw on Houzz. Go back to the product, and ask directly via the mfg.. I doubt you will get a "sample". Order the smallest quantity allowed and move on based on that quantity. These are the design dilemma pages. Go back to the product....See MoreInstalling Shiplap on Walkout Basement Walls
Comments (3)In general, you want to install your moisture barrier closest to the source of moisture. On above-ground walls you usually put it next to the sheetrock because people generate moisture. On basement walls you usually put it right on the cement wall because ground moisture vapor continues to come through the concrete. Your contractor got it backwards and that is why you had trapped moisture. If you are willing to spend some money, you could have closed cell foam sprayed into the wall, which would provide the sealing you need. After than you wouldn't even need the fiberglass insulation to get the R value you need.. You can also glue sheets of foam into the stud bays and just spray foam the edges to seal it, but that's a tedious job. Can you verify that they used treated wood for the sill plates on the framing? It would be nice if they used treated studs also if they are in contact with the cement walls. You want to keep the water vapor out of all the wood products. Like other insulation in an occupied space, foam requires a heat/fire barrier, and 1/2' sheetrock is the most common. Bruce...See Moregle2011
5 years agoBarnes Custom Builders
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5 years agoShannon_WI
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5 years agolittlebug zone 5 Missouri
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