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Flooring Design Dilemma

Laminate or hardwood flooring with almost no wood grain?

6 years ago

last modified: 6 years ago

Hello! Hoping some Houzz users can help me out. I’m looking for a dark brown laminate or hardwood floor for my kitchen and laundry room space. The reason I am looking for no wood grain is because it is going to be up against the original laminate in our (1977) home that goes throughout the rest of the downstairs, which has lots of dark brown movement throughout. The only thing I’ve found so far is bamboo, but it’s not recommended for kitchens or high-traffic areas.

Thanks in advance!

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Comments (4)

Helen
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
I would not install any wood that abuts already existing wood unless you plan to refinish existing flooring so that it matches.

I would install anything but wood in the kitchen and laundry area - either tile or some type of luxury vinyl that is NOT wood grained.
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Sina Sadeddin Architectural Design
6 years ago
Mixing two types of wood, especially faux wood, won't turn out well. Dark wood in a kitchen too will show everything. If you can't match the laminate that's int he other rooms go for a tile for the kitchen.

I also don't recommend laminate for kitchens/laundry rooms. Despite what the salespeople will try to sell you, it does not hold up well to water. It warps pretty quickly. Look into vinyl instead.
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Thanks very much to everybody for their comments! One thing I would be interested in hearing about also is how well a dark stain holds up over time (it sounds like the espresso-stained red oak held up well for speris for example). If not walnut, then we would probably consider a dark-stained hickory or other hardwood. We're definitely doing hardwood in a herringbone pattern though (I know, both choices are debatable but my wife has her heart set on it). We're going for a look like the attached photo, albeit probably with a lighter stain. It will only be in the kitchen, the rest of our house has the original oak flooring. And thanks to mark_rachel, Patricia Colwell, and Chess for the advice to stay away from LL/Bellawood. That confirms my suspicions too, we'll look for a local supplier (any Boston-area recommendations are greatly appreciated).
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Laminate (traditional fibreboard construction) is NOT recommended for kitchens...in fact it VOIDS the warranty on 99.99% of laminates. A water PROOF or water RESISTANT laminate (composite core construction) is more than welcome in a kitchen...with the understanding that anything "wet" must be wiped up within 15 minutes (which is 15 minutes LONGER than a regular laminate). Engineered hardwoods (like solid) are allowed in kitchens. The finish on the wood is highly water resistant but NOT water proof. You will be required to wipe up spills within 15 minutes (same as the water resistant laminate). A nice water resistant laminate = $4.50/sf. A high-end water PROOF laminate = $5.50/sf. A nice engineered hardwood = $6/sf. A high-end engineered hardwood = $15/sf. Solid hardwoods have the same pricing. The question becomes, what are the other floors in the REST of the house?
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Hardwood is a term generally used to refer to deciduous trees and their product. Many people mistakenly use the term to refer to solid wood. Softwood is a term generally used to refer to evergreen trees and their product. Hardwoods grow more slowly, are harder/denser and make a more suitable wearable surface. Laminate generally means a fake wood type product and is often called plastic laminate. After cheap plastic laminates came out, the wood industry started using the term "engineered flooring" to refer to laminated wood flooring. You don't have laminate. You have engineered wood flooring with a hardwood surface (White Oak) and layers of softwood in the construction. This can be done for reasons of stability, environmental efficiency and in some cases, tax advantages. Someone may have applied an acrylic wax/polish over your floor. Try using a little ammoniated glass cleaner and see if it removes the white spots because a urethane finish shouldn't be affected by the bird poop. Your loose pieces can be reglued with a product like Titebond or Elmers Carpenters wood glue. I haven't priced a longstrip replacement in a very long time but I suspect that it would run around $12 per square foot plus removal, trim and painting. Quite often they are laid floating over a foam. They generally have a thick enough top veneer to allow for a resanding or two.
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SJ McCarthy
6 years ago
Travertine-look porcelain tile in brown. That's my suggestion. Bamboo and laminate are very unhappy when installed in kitchens/laundry areas.

The space you are working with is considered "wet" so you might as well work with product that goes with "wet".

As soon as you move AWAY from laminate/bamboo/wood look stuff, you open up the possibility to get some FANTASTIC products that are appropriate AND will look stunning!

If your subfloor can handle porcelain, then go with a travertine-look porcelain in brown. If you don't want the price/weight then have a look at SHEET vinyl in a stone or tile look.

This isn't your granma's vinyl! There are some IMPRESSIVE visuals for sheet material.

Please work with something that is designed/appropriate for "wet". You will be horribly disappointed if you don't.
Chessie
6 years ago
Don't get a wood-grain anything. Get a stone look, either porcelain tiles, or LVT.

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