One thing I would consider is whether you plan to sell your home at any point in the near future. If you do, you might want to find out what kinds of flooring are common in your area/with homes which are comparable to yours. Just up the hill from me, hardwood and real stone would rule the day, but I don't live in that fancy neighborhood -- carpet and laminate and even vinyl would be perfectly acceptable in this neighborhood and a real slate kitchen floor would be a waste of money. Unless I were staying here forever and just really really really had to have slate. You have to make yourself happy. :-) You should find out what's under your current floors and what shape it's in. You may have hardwood, in which case refinishing it might be economically worthwhile. Or you might have hardwood that's in bad shape due to abuse by previous owners or due to patching during cheap remodels, in which case repair will be significantly more expensive even before you get to the refinish. I'm returning to GW after a few years away. I know when I was here last time, people here seemed to take a very dim view of carpet. The primary objection seemed to be that carpet was dirty and germy (maybe people here still feel this way). The way I see it, any floor will need cleaning. And I notice that the whole "who wants fabric which will trap dirt and germs" thing has not seemed to make upholstered furniture declasse or unpopular. I like carpet myself. I also don't like putting my feet down on some hard cold surface like stone or ceramic. So I got carpet for a good part of my house. Get what you like!

When it comes to floor coverings, psychology makes up HALF of the experience. The other half is the material. In other words, the PERSONALITY of the homeowner dictates 50% of the experience with materials. This is where my favourite saying comes in: "Homeowner know Thyself". Example: "Perfectionists" have a hard time with products that change or patina over time. Things that scratch or turn dull (or get shinier...depending on the original condition) upset the perfectionist. The expectation for "perfect" flooring for 25 years is a driving force when searching for the "perfect" flooring material. The "Realist" will find it easier to live with "living finishes" that patina, change colour, alter in appearance or simply start to look their age after 10-15 years. A hardwood floor finish is supposed to scratch; therefore the Realist is content with the appearance of daily wear over 10-15 years. A Perfectionist has a hard time with sheen change let alone an actual scratch. Vinyl can dull and wear over time (scratches eventually appear). The Realist takes these small, subtle changes in stride and keeps on with life. Perfectionists will find it hard to get past the first scratch and will scour the web looking for the PERFECT fix to this, the most normal of events. So - to your question: The best in terms of "wear and tear" (doesn't show age quickly nor changes in appearance) = porcelain tile. It will "live" for 25-30 years before broken and chip tiles push it to be removed and replaced. Initial cost (labour+materials) = almost equal to solid hardwood. Best in terms of "life span" = solid hardwood flooring 3/4" or thicker (3/4" is common, thicker is rare but not unheard of). This material can out live a home owner. Solid hardwood floors have been, and continue to be, in service for 60 - 80 - 100 years. A solid hardwood has the same life span as a human being. Refinishing is required at regular intervals but that is part of the ownership of solid hardwood. Initial cost = slightly more expensive than porcelain tile. Everything else ranks below these two titans of the flooring world. Floating flooring (laminate, vinyl, cork, lino, engineered hardwood, etc) has a life expectancy of 15-25 years. Each of these materials will both change in appearance and possibly fail prior to actual end of life. Initial cost can be VERY low ($0.79/sf laminate with DIY install) or can be VERY HIGH ($7.50/sf sheet Marmoleum professionally installed). But rarely will the equal tile installation costs. Look to your own expectations and then decide which of these floors is appropriate for you.

Is the birch a solid? as solid would last a lot longer than laminate. Do you plan on living there a long time? maybe you may want to change color of floor in future, only possible with a resandable floor. Laminate-- $$, essay maintenance, very scratch resistant, Wood-$$$$ solid? lifetime wear, looks better, sounds better, maybe longer boards, more maintenance, Good luck

Choosing the right flooring type isn't enough for your living condition. You will have to consider the types of cut: flat sawn, rift and quarter sawn, quarter sawn or live sawn. Quarter sawn and rift & quarter sawn will be best choices, because expansion and contraction is along the thickness of the wood. You will need climate control all year round. 70 degrees at 40 % relative humidity is where you want to be throughout the year. The use of a humidifier/dehumidifier will be needed year round. Although, engineered flooring is more stable than solid. Using the wrong wood specie in your living condition can run the risk of de-laminating with engineered wood. If, the top veneer is more or less stable than it's core and backing. You will experience de-laminating in extreme humidity swings. Take in account of what the engineered flooring is constructed of: mdf or plywood. The width of the flooring will account for how much expansion and contracting also. 2 1/4" strips are the most stable. As you go wider, expect to see more wider seasonal gaps. Proper acclimating is critical, should be performed with a moisture meter. For 2 1/4" strip flooring , sub-floor and flooring moisture should be within 4%. For all other widths 2% moisture differentiation is allowed or should not be exceeded. Don't forget proper expansion gaps, which is the thickness of your flooring, example: 3/4" thick = 3/4" gap. Sub-floor type and condition will affect the performance of wood floors. All this needs to be considered for the proper and successful performance of your wood floors.