Al advises against repotting in the middle of the summer. I would wait. I have enough difficulty pulling it off in mild 60-70 degree situations. I wouldn't try it mid-summer unless you have to. I would suggest using a large container of water and submerging the root ball to wash off the soil rather than the hose/sprayer. I've found that I lose less roots that way. Just don't keep the roots submerged for too long (ie: don't wash all 5 at once and leave them all sitting in water while you try to pot each one). Some people might be fine keeping their plants in sun after repotting but I find it's best to move them to filtered shade for a few weeks. It's not the pot temperature that is the immediate concern (though it does matter) - it's that you will lose roots in the repotting process and hinder the plant's ability to transpire. If it sits in full sun and there is more evaporation from the leaves than the roots can keep up with you will have leaf drop and maybe some dead branches.

If you are noticing that the soil is staying too wet, I would recommend the gritty mix. I switched both of my meyer lemon trees that I got earlier this year to gritty mix from soil that wasn't draining well and they are both doing much better. They didn't grow for a week or so after I repotted but they also didn't lose leaves. Then they started growing a lot and they have flower buds now. My citrus have both been inside since I got them. I'm pretty sure gritty mix is fine for the dry season too. I use the dowel method to check when to water. I also added Osmocote Plus (which I got at Home Depot) to the gritty mix and water with very dilute Foliage Pro. Check Amazon for supplies. That's where I got mine because even though there are John Deere places by me, I don't have time to get there with working full time and school on the weekends. Also, you can get Repti Bark from the pet store. I don't have any picture to load now but I can take some when I get home :)

@Bigmario I think I answered your post about the large pots in another thread. @Mksmith & Redshirt: I hope your trees recover. My experience follows the bell-curve. The largest majority just languish after bare-rooting (not discussing root-pruning here) only drop a few leaves if any, but do not thrive until the next growing season. A minor amount will act like nothing happen and flush out very soon (if appropriate season) and the other end of the spectrum, a minor few will drop many, many leaves and I think it will croak, but it doesn't. It keeps a small set of them and the next growing season does great. It still pains me greatly to watch that happen, though. I'm lucky on my larger trees I've barerooted they were not at the bad end of the curve. The only healthy tree I've lost prior was when I root-pruned at the same time. I also lost two that were destined to die from frozen roots during winter. Unfortunately, I have no way of seeing the pattern (yet) as to which will do well or not. I just finished putting a smaller sized 3yr old Kinnow (that had tons of leaves on it) into an 18gal container with gritty mix and I thought it went beautifully. I saw little to no root loss and was quite proud. As of today, it is still on the decline, having lost over half its leaves. I was ticked and saddened at such an unexpected decline. I thought I'd have to come here and say "I lost my first tree doing a repot". However, semi-good news for me. It turns out the holes in the bottom of my Kinnow container were just slightly too small (used the wrong size drill bit) or the fiberglass insect screen mesh was too fine. A few days ago I was suspicious, b/c the leaves looked exactly like over-watering damage, so I bore it out with larger bit and sure enough, perhaps a pint or two of water came out the bottom. I went around to my other recent repots and found one other with the same problem and same amount of water. That other container was with the 4-1 mix of CHC/peat (recommended by Millet) and it hasn't lost one leaf and looks great (the far end of my bell curve). Interesting...

Fire prevention : Although heat from bulbs aren't the best fire starting culprits ( they don't flash enough heat fast enough) the heat from them is better controlled with the use of a low speed fan. I follow a simple idea of if the lights are on the fan is on it allows no worries for as long as 16 hours of burning time from bulbs home or not (and no house fire to date) fan(s), timer(s), three plug to one plug divider(s), one or more surge protecting power strips are things to have on hand) Also note that for the amount of time(s) bulbs need to burn for most succulents such constant heat would result in nothing more than burnt plants and show false watering tells with out any fan at all. No air plus all heat = rotted burnt plant over at the very least dried shriveled leaves Pet idea ( not that I have any pets to help me with my plants but) If your using shelving & inside you can also rig up a form of a pet guide to help keep pets from being the kind helpers that they are. IE Secure a mesh sun screen with solid wire to hold it in place or a more solid chicken wire (or something of that nature) to the outer sides of racking to provide a small barrier / deterrent.