Hello everyone! I think from everything I've read in this thread that my plant has been suffering from overwatering and/or soggy soil. I got it in late January and after my second watering it developed a few very small brown marks on the edges of the leaves. Suspecting over watering as the cause, I let it dry out (until it no longer felt damp and spongey through the drainage hole) before watering again. This process meant it was about 2.5-3 weeks between watering and sadly the brown and blackish spots on the leaves have continued to get worse after every watering. With what I've read I now believe the soil is just staying soggy too long. (FYI when I water I give it about 3 cups, allowing one cup at a time to soak in. At least half a cup flows out the drainage holes on the third cup of water.) My plan now is to repot with a soil amendment and a wick. I'd like to do some root pruning as well since I can barely get the moisture meter in the soil through the roots, but I think I read in a previous post from Al that I should wait until it starts growing again and the weather is warmer. In the mean time, will mixing my regular potting soil with perlite as well as adding a wick offer a noticeable improvement for drainage for now? Then in the summer I can source better soil mix components and address any potential root issues? Alternatively, I can just water with more frequency and use less water until summer? Here are some photos of the FLF in the late afternoon on a cloudy day. This plant lives about 3 feet away from a S/SW window and doesn't receive any direct sunlight. Here is evidence that the plant has dropped a few leaves. The six leaves that fell off were the worst looking, and the leaves with the spots (shown above) are headed in that direction. And here is the beautiful new growth since I got it in late January (though now it has stopped and the tiny bud here doesn't seem to have changed in about a month): I look forward to learning even more, so thanks in advance for your advice and expertise :)

WOW ! your tree looks great... I too have a too tall fiddle fig leaf.. and i'm curious about how you trimmed it all the way down two years ago. I think I want to do that with mine. All have the leaves have fallen off except for the top foot of the tree.. so the rest of the 6 feet look barren. I've trimmed the top before with success, and have created little baby figs from my clippings -- I followed these instructions-- http://joeandcheryl.com/my-new-baby-fiddle-leaf-fig-tree/ But now I want to start over because my tree is grazing the ceiling. I plan on cutting off the tops of the braches and making more fig plants from them. My question is.. did you just trim yours all the way down to the dirt basically? How much of the stem did you leave?Thank you!

Should I still wait until June? Yes. You'll get the largest return for your efforts if you do; and, if the tree was repotted, it needs the extra time to recover. If it was only bumped up a pot size or two, allowing time to recover isn't as important as it would be if it went through a full repot. A popular 60s song, borrowed from the book of Ecclesiastes says, "To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven ....", and that is very true where plants are concerned. A plant's vitality/metabolism is like a spinning top when all is well. When it's stressed, the top begins to wobble. Further stress leads to strain, and a plant that can wobble completely out of control and collapse. To minimize the risk of Mother Nature siding with the hidden weakness or flaw, (which she always does), patience is sometimes a forced requirement. Learning to work WITH your plant's natural rhythms not only makes you a better grower, it also has the added benefit of scratching that itch we all have to nurture. Just knowing you're in sync with your plants is sort of therapeutic - at least I look at it that way, YMMV. Instead of cutting off the top, why not air layer it? Lyrata comes easy from cuttings, but odds of success are still much higher by way of the layer route. I currently have several air layers going on plants that are often hard to find and expensive when you do. I'd spend the next 5 or 6 weeks making sure you have your watering down and the plant is on a good nutritional regimen. Whenever it's above 55*, I'd make sure the plant was outdoors in open shade - it will make a significant difference; but, make sure the plant is secure in the pot. If you DO want to move the plant outdoors and are concerned that the plant's ht will make it too unstable, there's your 'out' for chopping it back. The boost from being outdoors should allay concerns about recovery ....... but I'd still wait until late June to do the chop. Al

hi there, I'm no expert, I've read these forums tons though and here's what I would say: Are the roots congested? Might need repot and root prune. At that time you would also see if you can easily separate the two. I disagree though that the two together are harming each other. What type of soil is it in? And what would you use of you repot? You want something aerated and well draining. About watering, my FLF only ever looks so sad when it is really thirsty. I wouldn't water on a schedule, especially during the summer. Use a tell to figure out if the soil is dry. Also 3 cups sounds a bit arbitrary. After it dries out, you want to soak the whole pot and then remove as much perched water as you can (tip the pot 45 deg). I would definitely prune the tall one, eiither where you show or even back to where you only leave just two leaves. The little one is quite scraggly. not sure what to do with that one, hopefully someone else comments. Lastly... I think it needs more light. Are you able to put it outside for the summer? Good luck!! Elena