Hi, Rebecca. When did you separate the plants?

Whether or not your plants need pruning depends primarily on your goals and the vision you have for your plants. With that in mind, timing is also a major consideration. We should plan heavy work on Ficus, like major pruning and repotting, to coincide with the plant entering the part of the growth cycle when the plant is most robust. For healthy plants, that would be mid-June if you live N or S of 25* latitude - how much consideration timing deserves diminished as the distance from the equator diminishes. When new growth resumes after separating the plants, you can prune - but remember the importance of timing. Pruning when the tree is at its peak ensures the most enthusiastic response from the tree and fastest recovery.

Al

Thank you @tapla I dived them about a month ago. I am 49 north latitude. Should I still wait until June? The tall skinny one looks so bad I'm tempted to cut the top off and try to grow new roots. Or is there a better way to deal with it? It looks really strange. Thanks!

Should I still wait until June? Yes. You'll get the largest return for your efforts if you do; and, if the tree was repotted, it needs the extra time to recover. If it was only bumped up a pot size or two, allowing time to recover isn't as important as it would be if it went through a full repot. A popular 60s song, borrowed from the book of Ecclesiastes says, "To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven ....", and that is very true where plants are concerned. A plant's vitality/metabolism is like a spinning top when all is well. When it's stressed, the top begins to wobble. Further stress leads to strain, and a plant that can wobble completely out of control and collapse. To minimize the risk of Mother Nature siding with the hidden weakness or flaw, (which she always does), patience is sometimes a forced requirement. Learning to work WITH your plant's natural rhythms not only makes you a better grower, it also has the added benefit of scratching that itch we all have to nurture. Just knowing you're in sync with your plants is sort of therapeutic - at least I look at it that way, YMMV.

Instead of cutting off the top, why not air layer it? Lyrata comes easy from cuttings, but odds of success are still much higher by way of the layer route. I currently have several air layers going on plants that are often hard to find and expensive when you do.

I'd spend the next 5 or 6 weeks making sure you have your watering down and the plant is on a good nutritional regimen. Whenever it's above 55*, I'd make sure the plant was outdoors in open shade - it will make a significant difference; but, make sure the plant is secure in the pot. If you DO want to move the plant outdoors and are concerned that the plant's ht will make it too unstable, there's your 'out' for chopping it back. The boost from being outdoors should allay concerns about recovery ....... but I'd still wait until late June to do the chop.

Al

Ok thank you! I will wait until June and see what I think. I will google how to air layer as well.

I also have a third established plant that is getting too high to the ceiling. What should I do to keep it shorter? See third plant photo in this comment. Thanks so much!

I only see one photo, but you can pinch a plant, which permanently stops extension of that branch or stem. Pinching is removing at least the growing tip of the branch. This limits the production and polar (downward only) flow of the growth regulator that inhibits lateral branching. The result is, new branches proximal to the point to where you pinched. You can pinch now and do harder pruning later if you like, but try to avoid major pruning (chops) until the plant has a lot of energy in reserve and current photosynthate (food/energy, the product of photosynthesis) is at or approaching peak levels. In most geographical locations N of the equator, photosynthate production in Ficus species peaks in the 4-6 week period immediately subsequent to the summer solstice.

There are several ways to air layer, but you'll probably want to use the 'flap' method for layering off the top of the tree. Right now is about the best time to establish a layer on tropical Ficus species. The hardy fig would best be layered just at the onset of spring growth in figs or mulberry trees (same family) in the landscape. I would use coarse perlite and sphagnum moss (not peat)

Al