I have two kinds of fig trees I planted this year. I put some by mistake in full sun and some in partial shade. the one in partial shade are growing and look very good. The one in full sun has its leaved curl up and look sad during the day sun and heat. I figured out that the trees were shipped to me bare foot. Bare foot trees has its roots shocked up and need recovery. I water the ones in full sun daily. When the sun goes away the leaved come back normal. I figured that the leave curling is a self-defense for imbalance between the root not supplying enough water and the leaves in 100 degree heat losing too much water. When the root system establishes itself this problem will disappear. I have one tree shipped to me in container and it is full sun and has no problem at all because its roots are intact. Now I learned my lesson not to buy trees from any nursery selling bare foot trees.Pay a little more for the shipping and give your tree one year advantage. Believe or not my eggplants had the same problem and I kept watering it twice a day and the problem disappeared. I have abundant eggplant crop I just donated 40 eggplants to the soup kitchen. My water bill doubled but it still $120 for the quarter. The summer in our area was very hot and dry.

You provided one clue to the likely answer to your question when you said, "I woke up this morning to find a couple leaves of one of my FLFs pointing straight up", and a second clue when you said, "I haven't watered it in a couple days (I'm waiting for the soil to dry out)". There are only a couple of things that ultimately affect the leaf's attitude (the spatial position it occupies). One is turgidity, which is essentially internal water pressure, and the other is phototropism, or the plant's reaction to light. We can eliminate phototropism because it wouldn't occur to the extent you could notice it over the course of a day, unless you were specifically conducting an experiment to measure it. Here's what I think. Your plant was somewhat wilted because of an excessive amount of water in the soil (too much water deprives the roots of oxygen, which limits their ability to function efficiently/normally). This caused the leaves to change their attitude (hang down a little/wilt). During the dark phase, the openings in leaves (stomata) that allow water to escape from the plant are closed (or very nearly so). This means that a root system that wasn't able to keep up with transpirational water loss during the day while stomata are open, WAS able to keep up with water loss at night while those openings were closed. Couple this natural rhythm of the plant with the fact you were waiting for the soil to dry down, which means that root function was probably regaining efficiency with each passing day, and you can see how the pieces of the puzzle fit together. The plant simply regained its normal turgid state and the leaves went back to their pre-wilt positions. FWIW, if FLF and rubber trees (F elastica) wilt badly, the leaves are very often permanently affected and unable to recover their previous attitude. Al

I have already pruned them all off. I was just wondering for future knowledge. The plant does have signs of: Septoria Leaf Spot Blight and probably one other disease But the leaves that turn yellow and then will turn completely yellow. They look like they are lacking nitrogen and then wilt away.

Looks like a fungus on the leaves. Try some Physan and see if it stops the spread. Somehow you are getting the leaves wet. Don't spray water on the plant. Mike, you have no idea how I miss Fall. Just got back from a few weeks in Connecticut visiting family and loved the cool temps, bright sunny sky, cool nights. Leaves hadn't started to change yet. My daughter said they started this week. I miss the seasons. I don't miss the ice and snow, however we lived with it for almost 70 years. Wish we decided to 'snowbird' rather than live in Florida year round. Orchid growing is a lot easier however. Everything stays outside year round. Jane