Summer_Squash, it appears to only be the old leaves. The further down the vine I go, the better the leaves look. I just checked. Some of the decaying leaves do also have yellow spots on them. And I found two very small but already dead/yellow fruits. This post was edited by wstoutamire on Wed, Jun 25, 14 at 13:41

Endless summer hydrangeas are macrophyllas. IOW those who usually bloom on old wood. They, however, are mutants who bloom not only on old wood, but new wood. They became popular for folks not only to extend the bloom time, but the zones in which a macrophylla could be grown and reliably bloom. If your's isn't blooming yet, it is probably because you pruned off the old wood it would be blooming from. Another reason for low bloom response is the buds set on the old wood were frozen out in a hard winter. So, if you had severe weather last winter, they may not have bloomed on the old wood anyway. We wait until spring to prune our Endless summer and any other macrophylla to see how much old wood survived. On our standard bushes, we don't expect bloom. On the Endless Summer we expect some bloom when the new wood is mature enough. You should be getting some bloom later on your new wood.

Thank all for the helpful advise. Martin, Thank you for confirming that my fig tree yellow leaves issue is not heat related, which allow me to narrow down to possible individual tree caring problem. It looks like that you are living in the same area as I do, I remember you have helped me in the past thread on how to winterize the trees. What type of mulch works the best according to your own experience? Frank, I will add some lime into the soil next spring, Thanks for remind me of this. In zone5, fig is not popular grown in ground. There are same people grow fig in the pots but still is not very popular plant except few people like members in this forum who really like to grow figs. John, Vinnie, Thanks for confirming the growing enviroment of the fig trees. You both are right. Hardy Chicago originally came from sicily Italy where is an island, growing climate should be very humid. It naturally should be able to take moist air without developing disease. I am looking into the overwater issue and on the caution side, spayed the fungicide which I try to use as seldom as possible. Currently, it appears the problem has stopped developing after few yellowed leave fell off. foolishpleasure, Thank you for the Spectracide info. I do have a small vegetable garden and occasionally have blosom rot on those large heirloom tomatoes.

I wouldn't fret too much about some yellow leaves here and there. Your toms look fine to me. My toms can sometimes look pretty shabby as the season progresses. That said, you want to avoid killing it with kindness. You might be getting some fried roots with a small black pot in direct sun. Water might not be penetrating the newspaper barrier on top of the soil. Tomatoes are resilient enough and do well enough if we just leverage their will to live. :) I grow toms year round in EarthBoxes using Dr Earth organic tom & veg fertilizer (5-7-4). One of the tenets of organic gardening is the use of water insoluble forms on nitrogen (Dr Earth fits the bill). Weekly/weakly fish emulsion and such is fine as well as a supplement, but not necessary. Organic EarthBox tomatoes: