Minka Aire Simple Fan makes intermittent clicking noise
sfandrew51
6 years ago
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Steve J
5 years agoAlan Powell
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Jenn Air Fridge Problems
Comments (17)My JA did much the same as yours, although it was taking more like "Wild Swings" in the freezer compartment. It would get as high as 20 F, but then it might get pretty close to "0F" again. At first I thought that the auto defrost was "stuck on" all the time as there was no ice buildup in the freezer compartment nor on the evaporator which is in the top of the freezer compartment, but that turned out NOT to be the problem. The problem turned out to be a "Partial plug" in the sealed system. I called one of 3 service companies that Jenn-air recommended. (The other two companies had HORRIFFIC Reviews)~~~~~so be sure to check out any service company you may be considering, (assuming it is not a DIY) this time. The guy was great, that came, He diagnosed the problem "Immediately", (I had been studying schematics and running diagnostic tests on it for weeks)!!!!!! He opened the sealed system, found a little piece of copper in it, installed a new dryer, and recharged the system, all for well under $500! If you do not hear a lot of clicking, then it is most likely not the relay, this time. It could be the thermostat, alto the wooshing noise "Might indicate" a problem with the sealed system, could be a low charge or air in the sealed system, which will "Freeze" in the lines of the sealed system, and make the compressor "work harder" trying to pump the Freon through the ice jam. A competent servicer with the proper gauges should be able to determine the condition of charge of the sealed system. Try turning the thermostat all the way up and down a few times, then set it at it's lowest setting and later check the freezer temp, if it has come down from 20F then it may just be the thermostat and there are, as you know, internet sales sites that carry the thermostat and even videos on UTube on how to change it. Good luck with it, and probably the best advice I gave here, is to THOROUGHLY Check out any service company you are considering, ~~~Use Angies list, Yelp, "Yellow pages" on the net, etc~~~Don't take JA's word on their recommendations~~~Obviously JA is not checking out the service companies that they recommend!!!!!! Thinking more on that "Wooshing sound", several things comes to mind. First as Dadoes said, it could be a defrost problem, and the sound you hear is the evaporator fan being blocked by an "ice Dam", but I would also check the fan for the condenser coils, (those are the coils you are supposed to clean)~~~usually they are somewhere close to the compressor. Listen in that area, also you should feel air running through the condenser coils. Gary This post was edited by dodge59 on Wed, Aug 20, 14 at 7:20...See MoreMitsubishi Mr. Slim Ductless Unit Noise Issues
Comments (59)I rent an apartment that is heated/air conditioned by a Mitsubishi wall mounted unit with two pumps installed on the outside wall of my bedroom. Last year, I didn't seem to recall having any problems, but since winter set in, this year, there have been periods of excessive humming noise and vibration so that I could not sleep. Then a couple of weeks ago, during a snowstorm, water came through the ceiling unit in my living room. It ceased rather quickly once I shut down the unit. Interestingly enough, the outside noise and vibration seemed to have quietened down until a week or so ago. My landlord checked and confirmed that he heard the noise outside my window, and called a service technician, who came today. Low and behold, nice and quiet, no issues. I told him it was intermittent, but the company doesn't really deal with Mitsubishi so the representative couldn't offer an explanation, just suggested to tape record it when the noise happens again. I am not crazy or oversensitive. As a matter of fact, I have severe hearing impairment in one ear and cannot hear the alarm go off if I am lying on that side. Yet, for nights and days and weeks, the noise and vibration was so intense I couldn't sleep or concentrate on any activity. Has anyone else had this problem?...See MoreWall Oven exhaust fan noise
Comments (14)I had a problematic JennAir, then a short lived KitchenAid, then a Whirlpool that not only had a super noisy cooling fan, it ran so long after baking that I hated it (Consumer Reports recommended model at the time). In this current house, I just had to replace the 27" double wall oven (45 yr old Thermador). I ruled out the three brands above and was left with few to choose among for my 27" cabinet: the unloved Viking, several levels of GE, and Frigidaires. I spent a lot of time online reading about the GE and Frigidaire models. In the end, I felt that the higher priced GEs simply had nicer handles or more WIFI interface than the basic GEs. Those had many complaints about the fan noise as well as long preheat time. I ended up with a Frigidaire Gallery, where the complaints seemed fewer and mostly about the lack of inclusion of the optional air fryer rack. It's only been a few weeks but I'm very happy with it. No wifi, simple exterior - no cheap looking printed array of 'buttons'. At a touch, the center screen illuminates with cooking choices. The SS handles could be better quality (smudgy), and the racks don't have a great finish. For the price, it will be a good purchase if it holds up (about $2500 for the double oven). Compared to my old Whirlpool, I can't believe how quiet the cooling fan is. When I ran it at 550 for an hour for my pizza stone, the fan was louder, but the tone dropped down when I shut it off and it cooled at the lower hum. It's a quick preheat to 350 - maybe 8 minutes - and today was 11 1/2 minutes to heat to 450. Like GE, Frigidaire is currently offering up to $300 toward cabinet modification. I'm baked out for the day, and have no plans to cook in it tomorrow, but I'll try to remember to get a decibel reading in the upcoming days. Good luck. Appliances are an embarrassment to modern manufacturing....See MoreAir Tight house make up air ventilation system.
Comments (26)Hi all, Many thanks for your responses. I see that my initial plan was over-simplifying some things and over-complicating others. I have seen the fantech MUA system. Unfortunately, it seems that they don´t supply these in Europe with EU voltage/frequency, and from what I´ve read there are no full MUA system "packages" on this side of the pond for residential use. Someone please correct me if I´m wrong. I´ve spent about an hour looking online to no avail. @Tim Cleary I´ve actually used a hermetic plaster to coat the interior walls as well as sealing tape along all the joints in the ceiling (timber roof), windows and doors. On the floor we´ve used a "paint" that is sort of a liquid rubber which seals as well. I won´t test for blower test, but it would surpise me if it doesn´t pass. On top of the plaster we´ve got 8CM of XPS sealed with spray foam and are going to put 70CM profiles for drywall/soft insulation. On the roof we´ve got wood beams with tounge and groove pine on top. Then on top of that we have a majpell 25 hermetic air barrier followed by 20CM of XPS, OSB, a moisture barrier for the roof and typical Spanish ceramic roofing tiles. Attaching a few photos. Sorry if off topic just bragging a bit heh. As for the HVAC system. We have planned to do something similar to what you say. A full house heat recovery ventilation system. The goal not being temperature control, but more having clean air throughout the house. It should replenish the full quantity of the house several times daily. Pending to see if I have activation based on CO2 in the rooms, etc. Will depend on price and compatability with other systems. In any case, this MUA problem is unrelated. There´s no feasible way that the HVAC system would be able to effectively replenish so much in lost in such a quick period of time. I will speak with my arquitect and the plumber to try to come up with a good solution. The heating of the incoming air is what most concerns me. I could get a hot-air furnace that would run on the same propane as the gas range. Based on the graphic by @kaseki, I´d like to plan for a 45-50F heat differential at around 900 CFM which would put me with a furnace or heater at around 35-40k BTU. Not sure if that is excesesive or sounds about right? @kaseki I think it´s clear I will need an active system. Many thanks for your detailed responses. Also for the info about the professional hoods vs consumer hoods. I was planning on going with the hood from the brand, but after reading up a bit, will probably go for a professional hood and check about in-line fan as well for noise control. Cheers, Andrew...See Moresfandrew51
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