Please help! Re-design and refacing cabinets
sunlitedr
6 years ago
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Bri Bosh
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Please help finalizing cabinet design, already paid
Comments (7)I have exactly the same configuration of door, cooktop wall, sink wall, island, but with a peninsula on the right where you have the tall cabs. I would definitely not keep your cabinets as presently designed. Start with the base cabinets. It looks like you have a lazy susan in the corner (I hope it's a super susan, with the wooden shelf under the top rotating shelf and no pole), which is what I have and love. If so, the part you can see is 12", it looks like there is a 9" cab to the right of it, then the cooktop (36", or larger?--check the price on larger than 36", because non-standard may cost a lot more), then an 18" cab , and a 21" cab. Center the cooktop between equal size cabs (not counting the corner lazy susan). If my cab measurements are correct, you could put a 24" cabinet with drawers on each side of the cooktop. So it would be 36" LS (with 12" showing), 24" drawer cab, cooktop cab, 24" drawer cab for base cabs. On each side of the hood, put either 21" cabs (if hood is larger than 36") or 24" cabs with butt doors on each if the hood is 36". The hood must be at least as wide as the cooktop, but 3" wider on each side is nicer if you can afford the more expensive hood. It's hard to tell the measurements with that corner cab, but I'd put a 21" or 24" cab in place of it on the hood wall, and you will need a spacer (~3") in the corner. After you turn the corner onto the window wall (at least I think that's a window), depending on how much space is there, I'd put one or two cabinets, with the one closest to the corner a blind corner cabinet. That's the one that has space going into the corner to the hood wall. I don't fill those shelves back into the entire corner; I just use the first 3-4" to expand a little from the easily accessible part of the the cabinet. I only put door panels on our island; just couldn't see spending the extra money (even though I had it) for the cab ends that I figured no one would notice. If yours is a high end kitchen, then do it. Mine is a medium priced kitchen, which is open to an eating area, but not to a family room, and I'm not trying to impress anyone. So this depends upon your own pocketbook and life style. Personally, I wouldn't want 15" deep upper cabinets--I have enough trouble moving things around to get at the things in the back in 12" deep cabs. It looks like you have plenty of other deep storage options. Can you show us what the other side of the kitchen looks like? Are there any other corner cabs? What is the measurement of the wall from the corner to the edge of the door trim? From the corner to the (untrimmed?) window edge? Anne...See MoreRefacing cabinets.....opinions please!
Comments (4)Refacing involves completely replacing the cabinet doors and drawer fronts. That is the most expensive component of any cabinetry. Typically "refacing" by a professional is 85-90% of getting new cabinets of the same grade. Sometimes, it's actually more expensive than getting new cabinets would be. It all depends on who you have quote a job and exactly what method they plan on using and the quality of materials. Really take a long hard look at your cabinet boxes and drawer boxes. That is all you'd be keeping. If they aren't good quality to begin with, or are in poor shape, you're pouring good money after bad. It'd be like putting a beautiful granite countertop on top of builder's grade "oak" thermofoil cabinets that had stapled drawers, 1/4" thick sides, and plastic thermofoiled "veneered" crown molding. If your drawer boxes are solid wood with dovetail joints and all of the hardware is in wonderful shape and the kitchen layout itself is fully functional, then perhaps it'd be worth it to you to reface your cabinets. FOr the most part, for those in a kitchen that just needs a little updating with hopes of a major remodel down the road, facelifts cost too much as an interim fix. Paint is the usual low cost instant fix in that situation....See MoreKitchen Cabinet Makeover/Design Dilemma! Please help
Comments (41)well, you could always remove the chair rail. but yes, if you paint the walls, you'll have to pick the same color to carry out through those adjoining halls I think Pale Oak, , Smoke Embers, Nimbus, or Light pewter would all be lovely in your space. I'd also hang a nice piece of art here to tie in the pale aqua chairs, maybe to some pillows on the sofa w/those colors. the fireplace/mantle is way too traditional looking. I'd remove everything. if you want more Boho, try some zellige tile on the surround I love this selection^ or a cement tile with natural wood mantle or, do more of a modern surround w/a marble tile at the very least, do a diff surround w/out the fluting...See MorePlease help (fireplace re-design)!
Comments (11)No offense intended but the design almost looks cartoonish. It might help if the upper piece of surround didn't overhang the side pieces. The unstained/unpainted wood trim doesn't quite go with the stone surround either. Am going to suggest you consider a stain or paint for the trim. White is my first inclination but it would really take some experimenting to select the right color stain or paint. The mantel has a slight rustic quality in the photo, at least. Perhaps you should go for a sleeker look - maybe stone. Good luck!...See Morecpartist
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6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoBri Bosh
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