You don't talk about more branches the better in 4 in 1 trees- you just don't have a choice. I hate these trees- they are a virtual impossibility to train well. Each variety has it's own level of vigor, but in Asian pears and peaches this might not be as big a problem as with apples. Apples are all I have experience with in this form. It looks like branches were already cut back for shipping. What you need to do during the growing season is keep the 4 different varieties growing at about the same pace so one doesn't dominate the tree. I can see that will be an issue for the peach for sure, with the top branch in position to dominate. Pinch growth that eminates from where branches were cut to encourage dominance of a single leader while developing less vigorous (smaller) secondary branching off it. Each variety should be treated like an individual central leader tree in terms of form. The central leader being like a trunk with smaller branches (no more than half diameter) coming off it. Also pinch back as needed to keep the different varieties in balance. Pinching means that you're removing as little growth as possible to stear energy where you want it, so it won't really retard overall growth. If you let the trees go without guidance for even one season you may loose control with certain varieties dominating the tree and starving out other varieties. Anyway, that's my opinion. My experience is primarily with 4in1's that have been badly trained and I have to try to straighten things out later. I would never produce a tree like this, much better to alternate varieties by tiers off a central leader, placing most vigorous varieties at base. In other words, new varieties are grafted as extensions of the trunk as the trees grow up. This wouldn't work well for peaches, though.

NO plant likes root congestion. There are times when root congestion might serve the grower because it has an effect on the plant the grower likes, but that isn't a clear indicator the plant will like it. Tight roots cause stress and all sorts of physiological problems for all plants. It reduces growth, branch extension, and leaf size. It limits vitality and caused the shedding of older leaves proximal (closer to the trunk) to growing branch tips (apices). If anyone tells you that a particular plant prefers to be root bound w/o explaining what they really mean is some growers like to maintain a particular plant in root bound conditions, they're wrong. If "some plants" really did prefer root bound conditions, Mother Nature would surely have arranged the plant's genetics so it grew tight little masses of roots right under the stem ..... but we know there are no plants that naturally occur that way. That said, your plant probably isn't in any immediate danger that pertains to root congestion. You're better to suffer the limitations the plant is now growing under for a while in exchange for a more opportune time to repot, which for you would be next June. Plants have natural rhythms, during which their energy levels wax and wane. For major work, like repotting (which includes root pruning), it's best to ask the plant to endure the added stress of repotting or rejuvenation pruning when its energy levels are at peak - not now when they are at or approaching their lowest levels of the entire growth cycle. If you haven't read it, the link below should be very helpful. If you are wondering about repotting and how to maintain trees in containers for the long haul, this link offers lots of guidance. Al Here is a link that might be useful: Lots more info

Electrical: 1. Two-way switches at top and bottom of each stairway iucluding basement stairs. 2, Two-way switches inside house and garage to flood lamps lighting driveway. 3. Outlets on ends or sides of kitchen island counter. 4. Extra outlets in basement. There should be 2 to 3 outlets in the laundry/water softner area. There should be outlets along each basement wall. If you know where your basement workbench will be, install a couple of outlet boxes there. 5. Phone jacks in almost every room and one in the garage. Omit phone jacks in bathrooms and powder rooms. Nust have locations for phone jacks are entry hall or location of your primary phone, kitchen, each bedroom, basement, and garage. Structure: 1. Make sure that a back stoop is included. Often, these are on the model home, but not included in the owner's house plans. It may be an extra, and if so, you won't get one unless it is added. The best time to build a stoop is during basement wall construction. A beam and footing is built into the basement wall below the frost line to support the stoop and keep it in register with the house. 2. Pay attention to the ouside design of entryways, especially the main front entrance. The front step become hazardous in winter if the roof dribbles water and melting snow on the stoop. The stoop becomes iced. Rain gutters are no protection. Figure that gutters will fill with snow and drip over its edge. A cupola over the stoop or a recessed entrance is nice in northern climes. A sheltered entrance is a plus. One caveat: On a two story, the design of the entrance cover should not interfere with ladder placement to the second story roof. 3. Add anti-ice dam sheets on all lower edges of the roof. The best time to install these is when the roof is first built. This sheet is cemented to the roof board. Also, add the same to all roof valleys. 4. Consider the method of attic venting. Older constructions used vents through the roof with soffit vents. Some new constructions are using ridge vents in place of the roof vents. 5. Seal the garage floor before moving in. 6. Add chimney caps to keep birds and vermin out. 7. Inspect the framing before the siding or brick is installed. make sure that all holes are blocked, especially places where wind might penetrate. Typical places were unwanted openings may occur are at the ends of the second story floor joists, and places were the upper floor changes direction or cantilevers over the lower wall. 8. Pre-stain the interior finish wood before it is installed. You'll have to work with your builder and finish carpenter for this. The carpenter may not like to work with stained wood if the color is too dark. Woodwork finishing is easier and faster when the wood has been pre-stained. Its a pain to stain wood after it has been nailed on the walls. Its tough to keep from getting stain on the walls. 9. If there will be decorative ceiling beams, paint the ceiling and pre-stain the beams before these are installed. 10. Carefully plan where the furnace will be located if it will be a high efficiency, gas fired model. These vent through the sidewall of the house and do not use a chimney. Plan the location of the furnace and vent. If the furnace does not use the chimney, a chimney liner may be required for a gas water heater that does use the chimney. (A gas water heater does not warm the chinmey sufficently in winter to prevent condensation.)

Hi Sheila, The pots are wrapped in black builder film. That helped a LOT!!! But apparently not enough. Maybe watering them twice a day would have done the trick. >>>The water could be running through without absorbing. This actually happened. I once saw a puff of dust come out of one drainage hole!!! I have since then adopted the leaky bucket way of watering. Got a 9 liter bucket. Made 3 holes on it on one side. Balance it on the rim of pot on a plank of wood. Fill it up. And forget it. Has worked wonders till now. But will need to fix a watering system. Especially since I got other plants in 511 mix. However roses being roses, they are still putting out some new growth. Hopefully they will escape as temperatures are going down now. I should really cut down on plant food. Maybe they are not as heavy feeders as everyone says.