You can find it at the places like Ace, Home Depot, ect., and I've even seen it sold grocery stores. It is listed on Amazon and has reviews. It is great for gluing dissimilar surfaces. I used it to glue my ceramic address numbers to the aluminum siding. I also used it to repair my birdbath that some vandals smashed. I mention the yellowish/brown color because my birdbath shows the color in the crevices and crack where it was applied. The glue is paintable but I am not going to paint the birdbath and ruin it's patina. The glue is GREAT for wet surfaces. Most glues would have dissolved by being on constant contact with water. I believe Gorilla Glue is UV resistant too. Besides being waterproof it resists shrinkage/expansion due to temperature changes. Gorilla Glue cures with exposure to moisture in the wood and atmosphere. Its unique. As I mentioned before, it foams and expands when applied, so do practice with it before attempting a project. It is also very drippy. MAKE SURE you put down something to protect you floor or whatever in case you drip some out of the bottle or it foams and runs. Cloth is not recommended for this - it will soak the glue right through. Use wax paper. Like I mentioned before, practice getting a hang of it. It is a GREAT glue, but there is a learning curve because it is so different. They now make an epoxy Gorilla Glue but I have not tried it. I use the original formula. Don't buy way more than you need either. It's tempting to do so because the price per ounce is so much cheaper in the big size but like most glues it will not keep forever and ever. Household Goop is another great glue I've used. It is clear and offers some flex after it is dry. It is easier to work with for small delicate items. It fills in cracks and takes it's time setting in case you make a mistake. http://www.eclecticproducts.com/ag_adhesives.htm JB Weld is another good glue. It dries black and goes on more like a paste. It is SUPER heat resistant up to very high temperatures, and resistant to vibration if your are gluing a piece on a vacuum cleaner or something. http://jbweld.net/index.php Gorilla Glue is The #1 listing on a Google search: Here is a link that might be useful: Gorilla Glue

I have no idea what the brand is but we've had our black out roller shades in our bedroom for close to 20 years and they are up and down every single day. I bought them at a local independent hardware store - not sure if those even exist anymore! Never had a problem with the springs and the edges aren't even frayed. We did the opposite of your set up. Ours are inside mount and I have a roman shade that is outside nmount, that 'hides the blackout shade. No light leak to speak of. If I had to buy them again, I'd contact an independent drapery house and ask what they use. They do more than the pretty curtains and have to offer a quality product. It will probably cost more than a department store but if they work trouble fee it may be worth it.

Well shades shutters and blinds has been very good to deal with and I think the price was good but maybe a better price is out there? My problem is with the company that makes the blinds. I think they are comfortex. out of the 14 windows. 3 or 4 had the silver side of the material on facing the room on the valance cover!!! instead of the Beige...I still need to get that fixed. Shades shutters and blinds wanted me to send any problem blinds back but that doesn't seem economical as all I need is some new material covers. 3 blinds in a room with 6 have about a foot or more longer draw chain. I need to get this fixed as there is a chair rail in the room and some line up with that and some don't. I swear the plastic chain is not adjustable as it seems to have been welded together?? I have been busy so these problems have been on the back burner but I do need to tackle them. The other issue was just that some of the valance material covers didn't fit very well. I have trimmed a couple of them to fit better. Basically the more expensive valance cover is a plastic housing that has some slots in it so a material strip about 2" tall and the width of the window can look good and hide the roller. Comfortex takes a strip of the material and puts some clear sticky backing material on it so it is thicker and more stiff and then inserts it in the top and bottom slot. IF it is just the right size it lays against the plasic curved surface. Several of mine were to to tall so that the cover poofs up away from the plastic by 1/8" to 3/16". I might add these to the reorder or try to trim them by hand. I am not sure how easy it will be to cut a straight line for 30+ inches. IT would seem that a factory would have a machine that would cut these the exact height that is needed as this dimension never changes on each valance and then some real square cutter to trim the ends to the correct length. some ends were crooked and my kids could have done better. That said they are fairly easy to install if your windows are square and the results of less heat in the room are dramatic. Only thing I wish is that I could clap my hands and all the blinds would go up or down by themselves. they only require about 3-4 pulls to move the blinds 6' up or down.

Hi. Thanks. I will check out Hunter Douglas. I suppose I will have to go to the blind store. It's easier for me to order on line and do it myself than traipsing to the store, having the guy come out and measure then come back and hang them (well, that part would be nice). My time is very limited and if I can shop at midnight, it helps. The roman shades I have are controlled with cords. The cord is wrapped around a cleat on the molding. It's a nuisance to unwrap the cord and rewrap it every time I open and close the shades. They also have a blackout lining, which as I mentioned, makes it too dark for a sleepy head like me. It is also a nuisance to have to get the folds back in place when I lift them. The other problem I have is that they simply do not look "lush" enough. They are the flat kind. When they are down it looks like a just a plain piece of fabric hanging there. My plan is to remove the bottom rods, raise them so they look more gathered than folded and hold them in place with fabric trim or ribbon. After that they will just stay up and I'll use a roller blind underneath. My advice is to get some that have a pulley system or a spring (don't know if there is such a thing). I'd also get another style rather than flat if you plan to have them down a lot. If you do decide on flat, get them long enough so there are still some folds at the bottom when they are down.