help me with these IKEA deco strips - unusual idea for install
elleewa
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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elleewa
6 years agoRelated Discussions
help! Ikea kitchen critique and questions!!! :)
Comments (8)I just installed an Ikea kitchen a little over a week ago (still finishing filler & trim), so I'll throw in my 2 cents. But I would second kailuamom's suggestion to check out the Ikea Fans website. It seems to get a little less traffic than here, but there are lots of professional installers and experienced folks there with Ikea-specific wisdom on those boards. As far as your questions� 1) My ceilings are nominally 8 ft, but in reality they are anywhere from 94-95 inches. We wanted to be able to put up crown molding on top with facia or face molding below, to help disguise the non-levelness of the ceiling, so that requires something in the realm of 4-6 inches. Including that plus the below-cabinet molding, there was no way the 39" upper would work. By my calculations, we could only have done the 39" with molding on top if we used very short molding. We went with a 30" instead. I felt that more molding and a bit of extra under-cabinet space would look and feel better than the larger cabinet squished in there. 3) (no #2? lol) I am positive I've seen this modification discussed on Ikea Fans. 4) My understanding is that miter joints (the diagonal seam you describe) are not a good choice for butcher block. I know people sometimes do it, but as it was explained to me, the miter approach can cause trouble down the line because of the way the wood will expand and contract with temperature and humidity. Butt joints are apparently the way to go. I have a peninsula in my kitchen, too, and at one point considered doing as you describe with the 26" wide piece along the wall and the wider counter for the rest of the peninsula. However, I decided that it was important to me to have peninsula be one seamless block, and tweaked our layout so that it worked to use the 73X39 counter. 5) I believe that as a general rule, your hood needs to be the same width or larger than your cooktop/range to be effective. So functionally, going with a 36" would not be good. In terms of appearance, personally, I am certain that I would not like it. A too-small hood just looks wrong to me. And the taller cabinets you have next to the 36" hood cabinet in your planner photos would probably be a fire hazard since you'd have some stove right below them. 6) Ikea doesn't sell specific filler pieces. You get some cover panels or toe-kick (they call it plinth) and cut that to whatever size you need. Where you need filler is wherever you have a gap between cabinets or between cabinet and wall that you want to fill in. From your pictures, it looks to me like you might need filler between the drawers to the right of the sink and the wall, and to the right of the upper above that. I don't know that you need anything between sink and dishwasher. The domsjo sink rests on the countertop, which would rest on the side edge of the sink cabinet. This is another question to search over at Ikea Fans, because there have definitely been lots of threads about this there....See MoreGranite guy says can't install on ikea cabinets?!? HELP!
Comments (45)Hi we have just installed IKEA cabinets and are now faced with how to install the quartzite slab (not quartz which is man-made material but quartzite the natural stone). It’s a leathered black stone with few veins and we were told it appears hard by the fabricator. It‘s 2 cm thick and from Brazil. Our problem is we want no edging. We like the thin modern look of the natural 3/4” and do not want 1.5” required to hide plywood subtop. We have given thought to thin metal sheet support under all but the fabrication costs were almost as much as the stone and we’d have to be exact with the measurements. Now the fabricator is saying it may be fine just to lay on top of the cabinets with no typeof subtop. Where as before he was insisting we needed something. Our peninsula will be a 24” dishwasher, 36” sink cabinet (undermount), 36” cabinet with a waterfall down the edge and an 8” island overhang off the back (no support other than the waterfall at end and the wall next to the dishwasher as he plans to sink it into the wall. The stovetop wall has 24" cabinets on either side and will have stone going up the back too. Does anyone have experience with this? The cabinet installer currently has the flimsy bracket that came with the cabinets on it. I went to Ikea and bought the SEKTION reinforced ventilated top rail which are stronger but have that lip on them so I can't use them on the front of the drawer cabinets. Should I switch out the flimsy ones for these and perhaps add another support along the middle of the cabinet instead of just the ends? I think the flimsy ones may be OK because it is about weight distribution. My partner thinks different. I also bought the FIXA countertop support and realize if I use that, I can’t add an extra bar in the middle. Any advice on what to install where or anything else I should buy to help our situation. Any advice appreciated, Joseph Corlett you seem very knowledgable and experienced with IKEA cabinets and stone and would value your input too. We are torn between the look we want and not wanting this stone to break. We have no kids and are really careful with what we own...See MoreCounter Top Installation Help for IKEA Sektion 15" Base Cabinets
Comments (7)I am not any further on the counter :) But I am still planning on using the ply as an underlay. Unless I don't, lol. The soapstone that I have on hold has a small ding in the surface. I can repair it by using epoxy and ground soapstone "crumbs". Then when dry it sands nicely and you really don't see it. I haven't actually bought the stone I have on hold, but its not going anywhere. They might have other remnants soon. I think I will drive there tomorrow and reassess the "ding" and maybe just go with it instead of waiting for something else to turn up. Just got the under cabinet LED lights installed today. I am still working on the crown at the top. I have one length in and have to cut a piece to finish it up. The space is to tight for me to fasten the crown as instructed. I am using extra strong velcro, that will hold 1lb/sqin. It has been working well for the top crown. I used velcro to attach the filler strips to the 2x4 backing at the ends of the cabinets too. It was great. The instructions for my style of crown have you attach the crown at the bottom of the uppers in a way that is not a good method. They have you directly screw through the bottom of the crown and up into the cabinet box. There is a narrow foam strip that gets applied between the crown and box which looks like it is used to block the gap between, so under cabinet lights don't show through. The foam works, but the screws don't finish flush. The screw heads are so obvious. I am going to back each screw out, one at a time, and counter sink the hole so the screw head will be recessed. Then I can cover the holes with a plug or wood filler. I would post a picture of my under cabinet lights but I haven't been able to post pictures for several days now. I don't know what gives....See MorePaint match & edge strip for Ikea Axstad cabinet fronts
Comments (21)Just wanted to give an update to this - I went to Home Depot and asked for samples of the Ultra Pure White in matte and a color match of the Ikea door (I have an extra 12” door that I carry around as a sample). I also ordered a color match at Lowes. The Home Depot associate swatched both directly on a cabinet door, and I tested the Lowes on my walls. The Ultra Pure White seems to be nearly an extact match. Both color-matched paints, not so much. I am super picky when it comes to color matches and undertones, and I feel pretty confident with going with the Ultra Pure White. I will try to post an update when the cabinets go in and the matching trim is painted....See Moreczarinalex
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