The way to share an ikea design with people who also have the ikea planner is to mail the design to yourself and then copy the link in the email into a message here.

However, that won't help anyone who isn't using the ikea planner. For here, the best way is to take screenshots of the different views in the planner and post those instead.

I don't have any feedback for you at the moment, as I am planning an IKEA kitchen myself. However, I have gotten lots and lots of great information from two websites: the IKEA hackers website and the IKEA fans website. Just google those two names and you should find them.

oops sorry i thought i did that (new here)! Here is the design and link below:
http://kitchenplanner.ikea.com/US/UI/Pages/VPUI.htm?LoadDesign=b45481d2ee2348e2a16bbab11bbf7aee&UIContext=Kitchen&IsSharedDesign=1

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen design

And here are some screenshots of the design for those who don't have the ikea program. Thank you again!

view of peninsula/fridge wall

I just installed an Ikea kitchen a little over a week ago (still finishing filler & trim), so I'll throw in my 2 cents. But I would second kailuamom's suggestion to check out the Ikea Fans website. It seems to get a little less traffic than here, but there are lots of professional installers and experienced folks there with Ikea-specific wisdom on those boards.

As far as your questions�

1) My ceilings are nominally 8 ft, but in reality they are anywhere from 94-95 inches. We wanted to be able to put up crown molding on top with facia or face molding below, to help disguise the non-levelness of the ceiling, so that requires something in the realm of 4-6 inches. Including that plus the below-cabinet molding, there was no way the 39" upper would work. By my calculations, we could only have done the 39" with molding on top if we used very short molding. We went with a 30" instead. I felt that more molding and a bit of extra under-cabinet space would look and feel better than the larger cabinet squished in there.

3) (no #2? lol) I am positive I've seen this modification discussed on Ikea Fans.

4) My understanding is that miter joints (the diagonal seam you describe) are not a good choice for butcher block. I know people sometimes do it, but as it was explained to me, the miter approach can cause trouble down the line because of the way the wood will expand and contract with temperature and humidity. Butt joints are apparently the way to go. I have a peninsula in my kitchen, too, and at one point considered doing as you describe with the 26" wide piece along the wall and the wider counter for the rest of the peninsula. However, I decided that it was important to me to have peninsula be one seamless block, and tweaked our layout so that it worked to use the 73X39 counter.

5) I believe that as a general rule, your hood needs to be the same width or larger than your cooktop/range to be effective. So functionally, going with a 36" would not be good. In terms of appearance, personally, I am certain that I would not like it. A too-small hood just looks wrong to me. And the taller cabinets you have next to the 36" hood cabinet in your planner photos would probably be a fire hazard since you'd have some stove right below them.

6) Ikea doesn't sell specific filler pieces. You get some cover panels or toe-kick (they call it plinth) and cut that to whatever size you need. Where you need filler is wherever you have a gap between cabinets or between cabinet and wall that you want to fill in. From your pictures, it looks to me like you might need filler between the drawers to the right of the sink and the wall, and to the right of the upper above that.

I don't know that you need anything between sink and dishwasher. The domsjo sink rests on the countertop, which would rest on the side edge of the sink cabinet. This is another question to search over at Ikea Fans, because there have definitely been lots of threads about this there.

Are you trying too hard to make the peninsula space do triple duty as a bar area, microwave area, and fridge area? As you have it now, it looks really tight with the fridge separated from the peninsula by a tiny base cab.

Your dining room table is close to your peninsula. How close will the back of the bar stools be to the DR chair backs? Lay-out gurus recommend 12-15 in. overhang for comfortable seating. As it looks now, even w/o the proper overhang, the stools will be pushed in front of the sliding doors. So how badly do you want a bar in that area?

You have glass cabinets around your range (and over the peninsula). Where are you going to store your groceries? Usually glass cabinets go close to sink and DW to show off glassware and dishes. Glass cabs are a natural around a window too.

5) I agree with dee850, just put in a hood over your stove, don't try to fit in a cabinet too.

6) Another place you might need a filler is in either side of your stove. If you can find the installation guide, it might indicate how much filler is required, but you should probably have at least an inch for clearance. The picture below is of my Ikea cabinets (custom doors) with 1" filler on either side of the stove and an end panel on the right cabinet. You can use deco strips for filler, or toekicks if you need a wider piece.