Rubio Monocoat issues
Angel Hall
6 years ago
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aimeekate9
4 years agoLuxury Wide Plank Floors Ltd
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Problems with Rubio Monocoat
Comments (13)Greg, the results you are experiencing are not typical results. Wood floor finish failure can be caused by a number of variables. Our customer service team would be happy to help assess the cause and identify the best way to move forward. They are available M-F from 8am-4pm central time via Live Chat, phone or email. 844-ZERO-VOC (937-6862) info@rubiomonocoatusa.com. In response to your question about another coating being introduced, it is not something in the works. Our finish has been successfully used in the United States for over 10 years now. When applied and maintained properly, our finish has been successful in both residential and commercial applications....See MoreCan I get my white oak floors this white color using rubio monocoat?
Comments (52)Pallman is fine. There are two things I would change: Humidity - it is at the lower end of acceptable. Even though 35% is allowed, it is still going to show some problems with splitting and checking. Please get it up to 45% - 50%. That will really, really, really help the wood look health and beautiful. This should be done SLOWLY. About 5% increase every 7 days or so. Ditch the Minwax. It is low-end DIY stuff. If Pallmant makes stains, then get them to work with Pallman stains. Get them to redo the colour patches for you to decide on your colour...again going with a coat of finish over the stain patch so that you can see the depth of colour. That's it. They are stepping up and fixing a finish that was really rough. They buffed three times (I'm assuming the buffing was between every coat) and yet they still came up with a rough finish. So they are doing it over. Very nice. You have an stand-up group of guys there. If they won't switch out the Minwax - it probably isn't a huge deal. Many refinishers like to work with Minwax because the stains have remained the same for DECADES. I'm not a fan, but oil based stains work with oil based finishes all the time. The HUMIDITY is going to be your challenge as a homeowner. If you can bump it up to 45%, you will have a much happier floor. Much, much happier floor....See MoreRubio Monocoat Installation Issue - Next Steps?
Comments (30)@ Jelena...Rubio is an oil based finish. That means it is NOT a sealant like polyurethane. It is an oil (often a coloured oil) that sits on top of the wood and soaks in a little bit. This oil, like cooking oil (OK not quite...but you get the idea) can be rubbed off. Yep. It comes off. Did you PURCHASE all of the cleaning products REQUIRED to maintain your Rubio Monocoat finish? Did anyone educate you about your HOMEOWNER required maintenance? Did they explain to you that you, as the homeowner will be fully responsible for keeping your floors looking happy and healthy? Sigh...didn't think so. Here's what you need to purchase. Yes...you need ALL of them: 1. Master Colour Oil - this is the coloured oil that gives your floor the 'non-wood tone' colour. Often people like wood to look white or gray or dark brown or...whatever non-gold colour they want. 2. Maintenance Oil - this is the product that is used every 4-6 months to keep the oil levels appropriate on the floors. 3. Cleaning Oil product - this is the product that is used 1/week as a 'cleaner'...it is your 'mop' product 4. Spot Cleaner for stubborn stains - used for stubborn/sticky messes like jam, bubble gum, animal stains that are left over night...etc. These are the 4 products you will need to maintain your floors for the next 25 - 50 years. Here is what you will be required to do to keep these floors looking good and the colour looking 'continuous' for the length of time you live with your floor/colour. Listed by order of 'most used' to the 'least used' in your cleaning schedule: #3: Cleaning Oil product - This is your weekly cleaner. Just like some people damp mop their hardwoods with water-only every week...so too you will use either water damp ONLY or the Cleaning Oil. This can be used as much as 1/week, but is more likely to be used 1-2x per month. #4: Spot Cleaning Oil - As stated in the title, you will use this as a quick/emergency clean on spots you find will be too difficult to deal with water-only wiping. This is the "Oh who left the blob of peanut butter on the floor?" type cleaner. Will be used any time you want to clean a little spot of mess. #2: Maintenance Oil - This oil is used in high-traffic areas every 3-6 months or any time you feel your floors look 'thirsty' or dry. You apply it in large batches...sometimes 1 room at a time. It is allowed to 'dry' or 'cure' for 12-24 hours before the floor can be walked on again. As you can see, with a cure time of 24 hours, this is best left for times when you KNOW you will not need to be on the kitchen floor (or use the entrances...etc) for the full cure. Some people use this as they back out the door to go for holiday or leave for the weekend. It's only used a 2-3 times per year (or as the floors dry out). #1: Master Colour Oil - This is the LEAST USED but the MOST IMPORTANT of all maintenance oils. It is used in cases such as yours - when you have rubbed off the colour when cleaning up spots. But the MAIN USE of this oil is to MAINTAIN the COLOUR on your floor. This one is really just every 2-3 years.... But....like everything you must do the first steps using the first THREE maintenance products AS REQUIRED. That's how you get away with using the Master Colour Oil only 3 times per DECADE. You MUST have used all the other products PROPERLY. These 'colour spot repairs' really shouldn't need to be done if you have used the OTHER 3 maintenance products. The clear oils (non-coloured oils) should sit on top of the colour and protect the colour AND the wood. If those products are missing, then you will eventually have the loss of colour as you are seeing on your floors. Can you tell us how old your floors are? Were the factory finished? Or did your installer do the oil colouring/treatment after the raw wood was installed? To find out what Master Colour was used, you will need to refer to the product information (if it was factory finished) or you need to contact the flooring pro who added the master colour....See MoreExperiences with Rubio Monocoat for Kitchen Countertops!!
Comments (20)So figured I'd follow up on our post, sorry it took me so long. We ended up going with Waterlox on our workspace countertops and Rubio monocoat on our island bar top. I am extremely happy with both so far. For the workspace counters, I bought unfinished white oak and we put 4 or 5 coats of Waterlox on it. It takes time for the application and curing, but now that it's done I would def do it again. The finish seems to be very durable and certainly easy to clean. We have had standing water, red wine, dough, etc. and all have cleaned up easily. For the bar top, I bought black walnut and the company I bought it from actually had the option to have it finished in Rubio monocoat. So I can't speak on the application process. Although it doesn't get the abuse and work that our Waterlox counters get, it has stood up great to what we have put it through. Standing water that was left wipe up no problem and don't leave stains. The Waterlox seems to have a little more gloss or sheen to it. Both seems to bring out awesome color in the wood. I would say the Waterlox is definitely durable, but we haven't put the monocoat through the same abuse. It's been about 8 months so far and we have no complaints about either....See MoreLuxury Wide Plank Floors Ltd
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