Root Training Process
paradiseprincess51
6 years ago
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Stuart( Paramaribo, Suriname) Hofwijks
6 years agoHi, I don't know if this story can apply also to adeniums.
For grafts, cuttings and root training I cut of some leaves, removed all leaves and leave only the top young leaves. Some leaves I cut of in halve.
All have worked but I believe that with only a few top young leaves on it works best.
Maybe due to the anatomy of adenium ?
Stuart
Root training · More Info
paradiseprincess51
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Using water crystals for starting the rooting process:
Comments (4)They are both polymer based crystals - same stuff except diapers would imply a need to absorb fluid quickly and so am supposing may not last long in soil. The crystals I bought you have to soak a minimum of 4hrs, overnight for the best absorption so there must be a significant difference - I don't know what that is though. But if it's just to get the rooting going, it's sounds good enough to me. Can you see the rooting through this? I'm supposing not, due to the white stuff, so go easy taking them out when inspecting. A handy little option to know about. Thanks Karyn and Kylie. - Sandy...See MoreThoughts and Questions on Training Root Systems
Comments (3)Sorry, other than pruning off dead or circling roots, I know nothing about the art of root pruning - your statement so that the main root went down, turned a corner, and then slowly ascended like a spiral staircase makes it sound like a very complex art, too. I have no idea why training roots is even necessary or how this effects the shape of the tree, as I am completely ignorant about bonsai techniques. :-o I am posting out of curiosity - why are you limited to just container plants and to bonsai at that? No garden? HOA requirements of no trees allowed? (I wouldn't live there, if so!) Or.....? Holly...See MoreNext Step of the Rooting Process...Collected Thoughts
Comments (42)JD, This could be personal preference. I leave the leaves and buds IF there is no sign of mold/rot/decomp, they're clearly firm and also located nearest the (to be) unburied end of the stick. I prefer to focus on roots and leave in the bags as long as possible to accomplish that. This is just my preference! Everyone does their own thing. If you have the same lack of rot that I've had, you could get away with it. If the leaves had started to rot and I was seeing no roots, I would personally 'nip it in the bud', pardon the pun. Some more experienced rooters may possibly try to cup it up. My experience is, premature shooting moved to a cup with no rootlets = the cutting will continue to shoot until it runs out of energy, then the leaves will droop, fall off, rot on the potting medium if not removed, and eventually the shoot will shrivel and die. I *have* seen additional shoots occur from other locations, though. Just for pictorial example, this is a Sudliche cutting I received from an amazingly generous forum member a little over 2 weeks ago. BTW - This is also a prime example of masterful pruning and a great callous, same as the cuttings Dan sent you (some people are just amazing like that). The person who cut this was very thoughtful and knew what he was doing. First pic shows what I wait to find before transferring to cup - at least two or three 1/4" rootlets. Also for reference, the 2nd pic shows the top half of the same cutting after I cupped it up in 50/35/15 coarse perlite/Fafard3B/sphagnum. Not the growth. That same growth has been in a paper towel for almost 10 days, AND it went through the antibacterial soap scrubbing AND the 10% bleach dunk with no obvious ill effects. No rotting present, and no issues....See MoreMust a fig go dormant for the rooting process?
Comments (2)Well Jesse, it's nice to know that someone here knows what to do, or at least makes a suggestion. Thank you This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Wed, Oct 1, 14 at 22:33...See More
Tony Low
6 years agoIf I will to cut it for root training, I will cut it at the red line. If it were to be cut as above, the roots grown is not balance.
Stuart( Paramaribo, Suriname) Hofwijks
6 years ago
rcharles_gw (Canada)
6 years ago
Maria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a)
6 years agoNice, Tony!
Paradiseprinces, I shared these last year on another post. The seedlings were a year old at the time they were photographed and were cut at age 5 months. I simply repotted on top of a button and kept on the dry side for about a month. Here are some pictures of their root development from below. The bottom surface will seal off and be smooth.
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Maria Elena
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