Hi JD,

Someone sure sent you some nice cuttings. Wait a minute.......I recognize those cutting as coming from me.....see the little arrow pointed upwards on Cutting #5? I put that little arrow there so you would know which end is up.

Cutting #1

This is what a PREMIUM cutting looks like. Notice the bottom end of the cut. It contains some of the wood from the vertical branch from which it was taken. That bottom end was in a tight crotch of the tree....when it was taken from the tree, a cut was made deeply into the tree to get some of the crotch between the twig and the branch from which it grew . WHEW.......kind of hard to describe what I am trying to educate newbies on.

Anyhow, a premium cutting such as this is extremely easy to root. Notice how well it formed a callous on the bottom node. I would nip off the bud that is emerging near the bottom. Then this cutting is ready for placing in your rooting cup.

Cutting #2

Nip off that bottom emerging bud and whatever is emerging on the joint just above it. Place it back in the baggie and it will soon be ready for moving into your cups.

Cutting #3

Nip off the buds on the bottom node (joint #1) and the next two buds above it on joints #2 and #3. Nip off the figlets on Joint #3 and #4. Place it back in the baggie and it will soon be ready for moving into your cups.

Cutting #4

This one is ready to go into your rooting cups.

Cutting #5

Pinch off what is trying to emerge from the second joint form the bottom. Leave those buds that are above it alone. Place it back in the baggie and it will soon be ready for moving into your cups.

FYI......Here are the general rules that I use for when to move cuttings from baggie towels into rooting cups when rooting by the Improved Baggie Method:

Move your cuttings from the baggies to your rooting cup mixture after any one of the following conditions are met:

1) you see root initials and at least one top bud swelling.
2) you see any root emerge...no matter how small.
3) you see a tip or top bud open and begin growth.
4) you have a well developed callus.

Thanks for posting those nice pictures that make it easy for others to see and learn.

Dan

I will answer from my point of view if these were my cuttings:
1. I will remove the recognized fig embryo right away.
2. I will tend to give it a little more time in the baggie method since the initials are too minimu.
3. If somehow I decide to pot it anyway rightaway then I will make sure that I use granualr medium for rooting (such as perlite etc)in some 16 oz pot so there is good flow of air and water and not add any peat base soil to the mix at this stage of minimum initials. Too much moisture will start a competition between bark rot and rooting and if the roots are slow to devlop the bark may become mushy before the roots take over.
You have every good looking cuttings.

Dan
Our post came exactly the same time (16:53pm) and I praised the cuttings as well saying "You have every good looking cuttings."

Ottawan,

We sure did post at exactly the same time. I started to point out some other characteristics that can be seen on those cuttings........but, will save those comments for later.

Dan

danab....I'm certainly not criticizing, but for me I have found that cuttings like # 1-3 and 5 root a lot better for me than cuttings like #4. (especially #1).

Maybe its just me, but cuttings with long spaces between nodes and less than 4 nodes tend to give me more problems than other kinds of cuttings.

Otherwise they all look like really good cuttings. What are they?

~Chills

Hello Chills,

When you realize that these cuttings were free (as I don't sell cuttings but sometimes trade)....and only charged postage & an envelope fee....they look real nice. These were either a set of LSU Gold or real Atreano cuttings. My guess is that these are most likely LSU Gold. I sent him enough of each cultivar to hopefully get him started. Those two varieties should give JD something to trade with next year. Some kind forum members have helped me get started in the past.....I am passing along the favor given me to some others.

I tend to agree with you that when the nodes are closer together they CAN root a lot better. However, it really depends on how lignified the cuttings were more so than the distance between the nodes. And, it depends more so on the diameter of the cuttings than the distance between the nodes. Trees that have been heavily fertilized, especially late in the season, will often have wood that has not had a chance to lignify properly and will be harder to root. Also, heavily fertilized trees will usually have the nodes spaced farther apart. The cuttings that I sent to JD (shown above) were adequately lignified and chosen by me to give him a good chance of success. I did not send him junk just because they were free.

FYI.....When rooting by the Improved Baggie Method, very few buds fail to sprout and grow on the cutting.....so, one can get by with fewer buds on the twig. I generally will nip those extra buds that are not needed when I open up the paper towels for inspection......as I have suggested above. Nipping potential problems in the bud....so to speak, is one advantage of baggie rooting.

Dan

Yep. LSU Gold.

Thanks Dan. Some members like to keep this kind of information private: When you realize that these cuttings were free (as I don't sell cuttings but sometimes trade)....and only charged postage & an envelope fee....they look real nice. These were either a set of LSU Gold or real Atreano cuttings. Otherwise, I would have blasted it.

I will have more questions and if you do not mind, I will keep this link as current as possible and ask as many post root initial questions as I can.

JD

....and maybe you should have sent that privacy request in a private email to me!

Dan

Dan,

Apologies for the confusion. My comments were in regards to your privacy...not mine!

JD

PS: My intent was to learn (and share) about the next steps of twigs to figs that are not as clear as other steps. And I preferred to start this thread about cuttings (and not cuttings from Dan). Your response coupled with Ottawan's confirmed my intuition. The fig knowledge and cuttings/plants that I have received has been the result of the sharing on the fig forums so - like you - I will share any abundance.

No problem JD. I was reacting to the words...."Otherwise, I would have blasted" comment written just after your quote. Parris Island training has caused me to react VERY strongly to such words. My usual reaction to such things is to dig in then begin a counter attack. The bad guy that lies deep within me was kept in his cage in this instance where he belongs.....I recently learned to count to 10,000 before responding to such things......it is often just a misunderstanding as it is difficult to clearly communicate to others in writing one's true intent. I appreciate your clarification. It is now forgotten. We are both on the same wavelength.

Notice I earlier thanked you for posting these pictures. I will gladly share my thoughts as new pictures are added. Like you, I hope this becomes a teaching exercise and proves helpful to others. I agree with AL, if nobody is really interested in such things....there are better things for us to do. Silence in some instances is definitely not Golden and sincerely hope that this exercise becomes a sharing of "Collective Thoughts" as indicated in your subject line.

Now going outside to put a Brisket, a slab of Memphis style ribs, a slab of baby back ribs, and some Boudin in my new smoker for tomorrow's Super Bowl party. My brothers, sisters, and I can't wait watch my 82/yo MOM watch the Super Bowl game. She has been a faithful Saints fan for 42 years.....and really gets into the spirit of NORMAL game.

Dan

On TOPIC: I have nipped the buds and tucked them back into the toweled-bagged-boxed-humidity&temperature_stable confines. I prefer to see roots before I cup.

One more thing, I also have a cutting (Stallion Unknown) - in sphagnum - that is leafing but no clear signs of initials or even "a-lotta-bumps". I know that one of your when-do-i-cup markers is leafing. Any other opinions? It is still in the container, in the bag, in the box.

I am resisting the urge to do something just because it is doing something.

I'll post a photograph ASAP.

JD

OFF TOPIC: Forty-two years!...Who dat?

OFF TOPIC: Forty-two years!...Who dat?

Is it your Birthday?

Those that use sphagnum in baggies may be in a better position to advise you. What I have given are the general criteria that I use for deciding when to move towel wrapped cuttings from towel baggies to rooting cups. I would assume that if you are looking for a decision point.....the same would apply. Maybe the sphagnum baggie rooters wait longer and plant their cuttings directly into trade gallon pots and skip the rooting cup step entirely. George posted that he was going to try sphagnum in baggies...maybe he will chime in and answer your question.

I like so see what is happening to my cuttings when I open my towels up for inspection.....but that is just me. After opening the towel any liquid moisture on any emerging buds or leaves will be gently wiped away. I generally can judge the amount of moisture being absorbed by the cuttings by touching it repeatedly with a GENTLE tapping motion. When you have an optimum level of moisture available to a cutting in a baggie towel.....its surface will feel sort of sticky and tacky with little to no liquid moisture appearing anywhere on the cutting. If the surface of the cutting continues to appear dry and does not get duller in appearance or develop this tacky feel......then I will re-dampen my towel, squeeze the water out, and re-wrap my cutting. Or, I will add a few more drops of water to the towel to increase the moisture level.......very simple process and it works well for me in judging moisture.

As you can see, I am not a stick it and forget it kind of guy. However, there is absolutely nothing wrong with "sticking and forgetting" or with "wrapping and forgetting", or going directly from sphagnum in baggies to final potting........if that works well for you and you are satisfied with the final results.

Martin,
42 was the number of years my mom has been a faithful New Orleans Saints fan and waiting for them to win a National Championship.

Dan

JD, I know you probably already know how I feel about it, but I'm adding my 2 anyway.

These guys have way more experience than me, so I can only share what I've seen. As a novice, none of those cuttings look ready to be potted to me. If I don't see at least one "rootlet" that's at minimum 1mm-2mm long, they stay in my bag. The first cutting looks like it could be close, and may have one initial starting, opposite of the lowest bud, near the callous. The rest look like you could've just cut them off the tree within the last day or two. The 3rd one looks like it's a little more progressed than the rest, seems the callous has started at the cut site.

I've had too many cuttings that had little fuzzy white things or freckles show up here, buds pop out there, bumps show up there....only to put them in cups with potting medium and wait weeks upon weeks for anything to happen - sometimes nothing happens! I feel it is way too easy to mistake the characteristic bumps just under the node as actual root initials - yes, true, this is usually where I see rootlets start, but I would be curious to see pictures in the coming week or two when initials show so we could actually see which of those bumps actually turned into rootlets (I bet less than 10%, if any).

In fact, after reading a lot of other folks' experiences, I see there is a ton of confusion about what an "initial" really is, because fig cuttings have a ton of little freckles that show up on them which do nothing.

For buds, I've made out just fine snapping off everything that will be under soil. For me, this is usually everything from about the halfway point of the cutting on down. I won't snap them off unless they're actively looking like they're breaking bud, because leaves tend to mold pretty quick.

But that's just me.

Jason, I have additional information on the history of these cuttings that you don't. These cuttings sat in baggies in my house for awhile and were not refrigerated. I was not able to get them mailed in a timely manner due to some minor surgery that I had. I told JD when I did get a chance to mail them to him....these were close to pushing roots from the root initials. Root initials are round dots that appear just below the joint.....barking is not round in shape and can appear anywhere between the node joints. There is no harm leaving them in the baggies longer if desired. However, I see little advantage to leaving them longer in the baggies once they reach the criteria that I have suggested.........as the baggie has then served its purpose for what I wanted to achieve on my cutting. Then again, that's just me........

OT update....

My Boudin and ribs are done, the homemade BBQ sauce is prepared.....still waiting for the Brisket's internal temperature to reach 188 deg. Just saw on the news that the "Who Dat's" have turned Miami Beach highway into one big party.....they are going nuts down there. Miami may never be the same.

Dan

I know you probably have more experience than I do, and you probably know the cuttings and variety more than I; but I would wager money that if JD took a photo of these cuttings after pushing roots, that less than 1 in 10 of those dots just under the joint would actually be a rooting location.

I even believe if left in baggies, you would find the same results.

We should probably agree to disagree on this one, but man ... I would love to see followup photos just for confirmation.

You may be right. Let them stay longer to see the "exact" location where the roots emerge. When those dots get prominent on the bottom node, roots usually are not far behind. My preference is to move cuttings from baggies when a definite tiny root emerges. If roots are delayed beyond normal, I move based on the other criteria. Nothing critical about when to move them and yes LSU Gold is an easy rooter....inside information. It is better to wait for actual roots to emerge on harder to root twigs.

No fair being a Monday morning quarter-backer nor me in having inside information....so after the next picture is posted, I will comment after you and others.

Dan

In a couple of posts above I read the word "towel" wrap in regard to baggie method but then relaized that it meant towel-paper (most prabably). However, it brought a question to my mind. Has anyone used a small cotton (or x % cotton) towel for wrapping cuttings in baggie method. Cotton towel can be easily wrung to perfection for moisture contents. Also can be bleached for disinfection easily.
Any comments (pros, cons)?

My wife had some cotton makeup removal pads. I used them last year to ship out some cuttings. I know a lot of peoplpe recommend wrapping cuttings in things, but I still have not seen proof there is a benefit to "wrapping" the cuttings in anything. Just putting a moisture source, such as dropping a square of damp cotton squares into the baggie, seems to work just as well.

I havne't pointed this out in the past. Didn't want to get jumped on.

Satellitehead, i just read your post with a little sadness.What you said - below
I havne't pointed this out in the past. Didn't want to get jumped on.
As a long time member here on this forum near or about 5 years now my personal belief in posting is this.
Never be afraid to get jumped on to often it becomes a contest who is right with an answer to a question with an audience in the backround - the readers of these post. Its always nice to see different approaches concerning these plants what people do that works for them.If something works for a person and they post it so be it thats good for the forum. If someone grills you to the point that you feel they are jumping on you i would personally ignore them.
I post things that have worked for me on both forums and share that on both forums , yes i have made mistakes and pointed them out as well. But i never believe my way is the best way weather it be rooting, growing, shapeing a fig plant etc. I only post things i have done with my plants and let the readers read that and perhaps say to themsleves hmm maybe i would like to try that or take a little bit of information and use part of it to there likeing.
So in short dont be afraid to ever post what you have done because someone will jump on you , i would never do that and a another member should not in my opiion do that either.
One thing i never hope to imply on these forums is my way is the best or only way for its simply my way that i do things which i might add sometimes can be different like we all are here different.
Going to sit back and hopefully watch a Midwest team win the game sunday for its the closest our city can come.
Perhaps the Blackhawks hockey team my true favorite sport can do better than our lousy football team.
Best Health
Martin

Dan,

This is good information: When you have an optimum level of moisture available to a cutting in a baggie towel.....its surface will feel sort of sticky and tacky with little to no liquid moisture appearing anywhere on the cutting. If the surface of the cutting continues to appear dry and does not get duller in appearance or develop this tacky feel......then I will re-dampen my towel, squeeze the water out, and re-wrap my cutting. Or, I will add a few more drops of water to the towel to increase the moisture level.......very simple process and it works well for me in judging moisture.

Ottawan,
Yes. Paper towel.

Jason (and Dan),
I nipped & tucked up to about halfway on all of the cuttings and then placed them back in the baggies.

In an effort to ensure that my questions are clear and concise and to avoid confusion; I'll trade-in four thousand words:

JD

Around here there is a saying "you might be a redneck if"

I know PPL in different parts of the country do things differently but!

Around here if you call someone a Lair you could very well get "jumped on" and if it is someone that is very honorable that makes it even worse. I write this this hoping that I don't get banned from this Forum.

Cecil

Actually, there is no need to put anything in the baggie with your cuttings when you ship them.

Now wait a minute.....while this is true....I am not recommending that so read on. That is true ONLY IF condensation doesn't occur inside of the bag....which can cause them to degrade in storage or transit. Ever taken some fresh cuttings, put them in a closed bag only to later find quite of bit of liquid condensation in the bag? That condensation can cause rot and mold to form......rather quickly if left in the bag at higher temperatures. Fresh cuttings taken at a warm temperature, then placed in a baggie, then placed in a cold refrigerator.....often will cause condensation to form in the bag. Ever noticed that? That condensation is also not good for your cuttings. It is best to keep that stuff off of your cuttings. Condensation on cuttings.....not good. Condensation on baggie walls.....no problem.

The purpose of a "slightly" damp paper towel inside of the bags with cuttings sent for shipment is to help ensure some humidity (in its proper vapor form) remains inside which helps prevent them from drying out and also helps wick any excess liquid condensation that might occur in transit.

From the cuttings that I have been receiving, I find that many are shipping with paper towels that are much TOO WET. Some have been soggy to the point where rot had already occurred. FYI.......these are the cuttings that can be problematic in rooting. I have received cuttings without any paper towel and the cuttings inside were in excellent shape as there was NO liquid condensation inside. All cuttings rooted just fine.

Most of the problems that I have seen in fig rooting can be traced to the fact that many people simply do not understand that once you put your cuttings in a CLOSED baggie or container...that "closed-in system" creates its own micro-climate. What happens inside of that micro-climate is affected by external factors...........more later.

Just my viewpoint....I'm sure others have theirs and will express them.

Dan

Well Dan,

I received some O'Rourke cuttings not long ago from a MOST RELIABLE source, they were shipped in a baggie with nothing else in it for moisture, I said to myself HMMMMMMM!

So I can see why you say what you say about this matter.
Thanks for posting
Cecil

Cecil, I would hope that this forum does not ban you for saying something that is true. There are SIGNIFICANT cultural differences that exist with members of this forum and maybe WE ALL need to lighten up a bit...including those cliques.

Gunna be a great game today........the city of New Orleans will have 600 officers and state policman to insure safety in the French Quarters after the game. Should the Saints win today, there will be a bigger party in New ORleans than in Miami......sans any violence in the streets of New Orleans.

Dan

Cecil,

I know that your source is most reliable......good to get some positive feedback. Silence is not Golden.

Dan

Martin, you are our "Ambassador of Good Will" and I really enjoy and appreciate your posts.

Dan

Dan you said "I know that your source is most reliable......good to get some positive feedback. Silence is not Golden."
Dan if you were the source then let me be the first to give you a BIG
DAT A BOY
Sal

@Dan, I tend to agree with you about cultural differences. I brought this up with a provacateur in a previous thread, in which he jumped the gun and went overboard on another member over that member's choice of words, something that is typical of said provacateur. I agree with others, I am here to talk about figs, everything from rooting to purchasing. This is a great thread, which will help a LOT of people. Finally! Pictures of sticks, initials, rootlets, etc!

@JD, I am with you. Sometimes I will wait for more than one root. Sometimes you are not afforded this luxury, and only one is present. It's best to pot it up before that root turns brown and you lose it. Of the photos, the one with two sticks, looks like you may have a couple of initials there, but a lot of "barking", as I think it is called. Lots of the fuzzy white things that will turn orange, then brown.

@Cecil, if you must say "I hope I am not banned" for saying something, then you show that you CLEARLY know what you are doing, and you know it is wrong, you know you are starting trouble. Furthermore, you have made a couple of false implications about the incident you're bringing up which paint me in a horrible light. For the sake of my name, I will point them out. First off, I didn't mention anyone's name when I stated I felt I'd been lied to on eBay. Second, it would've been IMPOSSIBLE for anyone to accurately determine the person I was saying lied to me on eBay, because there were a dozen people selling cuttings at that time - IT WAS A GENERAL WARNING about eBay sales. Third, when someone tells you they WON'T do something, then they turn around and do it a week later, what does that make them in your world? 100% honest and honorable? Finally, I also thought it was a misunderstanding, so I sent a message to the seller. I received no response in two weeks, meanwhile, this person was actively doing eBay business for days. I don't care what a person's standing is in the community, if you're an honorable person, you remain honest 100% of the time, not just 99.9% of the time. If someone asks you to clarify, two weeks is plenty of time to get the message.

If you want to discuss these personal matters which involve me at greater length, please don't do it in this thread. Many of you have my email address, and some even have my phone number. I'll ask, Cecil, that you stop making me out to be "in the wrong" here. That matter is between me and the other member, I have the entire transcipt of our eBay messages as proof of our chat if I need to prove anything further. You have no idea what happened, you have not even seen our messages, but you have no problem with slandering me without having any of the facts, and spreading untrue words and implications about me. Some would call that the "true" definition of "poor character". I'm leaving it at that.

So, with all that said and in the past, can we please get over it now, and talk about figs already?

This is a terribly informative thread, and it doesn't need people to soil it with off-topic incidents. There is irony here: A person who has complained about "airing dirty laundry" on the forum in the past sure doesn't seem to have a problem with it now. THIS is why I say you can't talk on this forum without fear of being jumped on. You share your experience, and people want to stir up nonsense which is totally off-topic.

I don't know what was said on ebay, and couldn't care less!

I do know that Herman2 was the only one selling Florea cuttings, so to my simple way of thinking YOU were calling Herman2 a Lair.......I stand by that.

Cecil, can you please drop it? Seriously. I never mentioned Florea cuttings, neither did anyone in the thread. Stop making me out to be the bad guyl. Get over it, there was no way possible to tie any user at this forum to my comments other than having the seller come on and post. Stop trying to cause problems on the forum already. It's getting old.

Well, I asked for collected thoughts...and now I am making an effort to converge the divergence. Trying to get back on topic, I had a few questions up thread:

Feb7#2: For me, I like to pot after I see a root like this. Notice the presence of all of those white dots; Dan, I believe this is what you identified as 'barking', right?

Feb7#3: This cutting is barking also but not as much as the other one. Does barking signal that roots are imminent?

Feb7#4: Here is the bud in the sphagnum. No barking, no root initials, but a leaf! My intuition says wait to cup it but I prefer to lean on experience. Anyone?

JD,

This could be personal preference. I leave the leaves and buds IF there is no sign of mold/rot/decomp, they're clearly firm and also located nearest the (to be) unburied end of the stick. I prefer to focus on roots and leave in the bags as long as possible to accomplish that.

This is just my preference! Everyone does their own thing. If you have the same lack of rot that I've had, you could get away with it.

If the leaves had started to rot and I was seeing no roots, I would personally 'nip it in the bud', pardon the pun. Some more experienced rooters may possibly try to cup it up. My experience is, premature shooting moved to a cup with no rootlets = the cutting will continue to shoot until it runs out of energy, then the leaves will droop, fall off, rot on the potting medium if not removed, and eventually the shoot will shrivel and die. I *have* seen additional shoots occur from other locations, though.

Just for pictorial example, this is a Sudliche cutting I received from an amazingly generous forum member a little over 2 weeks ago. BTW - This is also a prime example of masterful pruning and a great callous, same as the cuttings Dan sent you (some people are just amazing like that). The person who cut this was very thoughtful and knew what he was doing.

First pic shows what I wait to find before transferring to cup - at least two or three 1/4" rootlets.

Also for reference, the 2nd pic shows the top half of the same cutting after I cupped it up in 50/35/15 coarse perlite/Fafard3B/sphagnum. Not the growth. That same growth has been in a paper towel for almost 10 days, AND it went through the antibacterial soap scrubbing AND the 10% bleach dunk with no obvious ill effects. No rotting present, and no issues.

Thanks to all of you for the pics and information being passed on here. I am attempting to root over 70 cuttings, having never done this before. Those pics, coupled with the discussion, help a lot. I figure if I get half of my cuttings to grow I'll be doing good, and if this should occour I have all of you to thank.

As for the infighting I read here....well, in the words of that great modern day California philosopher Rodney King...."Can't we all just get along?" Maybe focusing more on what we all have in common.....that being the topic of this forum, and less on perceived slights and accusations would be a good start.

But hey.....I'm just one of the little people here in the peanut gallery....what do I know?

Let me say again though....thanks to ALL of you who share your information and expertise here.

And lastly.....How 'bout those Saints?????

My home team =) I was rooting for them from the getgo in a room half full of Colts fans (friends). I wagered a nice dinner with two of our best friends - Saints win, they pay, Colts win, I pay.

Now, gotta go find the most expensive underrated restaurant out there! ;)

I also appreciate all of the insight, which is the main reason I share as much as possible. A hundred people can take the same instructions and have different results, it's always nice to see everyone's experience and results so we may all eventually becomes masters and find the easiest way possible.

In case somebody has not seen it yet, Jon @ Encanto Farms has just posted a new method to try for rooting. The pictures speak for themselves about how effective it can be.

Hey Jason,
How are those other cuttings? Are they showing the same signs of roots as the ones pictured?

Hey Ricci!

Both Sudliche rooted super-fast. The 180z cups are showing several roots against the side on both.

Of the three Bisirri cuttings, one has a 1/4" rootlet and will be cupped tonight. One is showing an initial breaking (~1mm long), and the last is doing nothing.

Two 143-36 cuttings ... one has an initial breaking (1.5mm), the other one has been "barking" top and bottom and otherwise doing nothing.

I expect that both Sudliche will make it. At least one Bisirri will certainly make it, It is too early to say how 143-36 will do.

Hi, this is a good thread. I was just trying figure out when to take my cuttings out of sterlite boxes with spagnum moss. Some cuttings have roots over an inch long. Some of my boxes have cuttings with roots and white mold. I'm not sure how to handle that. I could trim off the really bad parts and wash them. I know I probably waited too long but its only been about a month.

Where is the mold on the cutting? How bad is it? Can you take pictures and post them here so we can see?

A little mold is not a death sentence. If on the leaves or sprouts, just cut the sprout. If it's on the leaf scar, a lot of times you can scrape it out really good with a nail and be fine. If it's on the the side of the cutting, and the spot is firm (not soft/mushy), this could be something as easy as taking a clorox wipe or paper towel dipped in bleach solution, and rubbing the moldy spot with a cloth.

Mold is a huge problem when it gets under the cambium layer. Bleach will kill it. Just keep the bleach solution away from the roots.

Satellitehead, I don't have pictures but most of cuttings look in good shape. I need get in cups pretty soon.

When I said "scrape it out really good with a nail", I mean scrape it out really well with a fingernail. This works great on leaf scars. Leaf scars seem to hold a lot of porous material, which mold loves.

I use Clorox wipes (they are non-bleach) on light surface mold, and rub really well. Seems to work good. Really agressive mold, I put a dab of Clorox Soft Scrub on the affected area, and a little beyond, then let it stay for a goot couple of minutes before removing, and it doesn't seem to kill any plant material. Finally, if the spot is soft, slimy or mushy, I don't screw around, I cut that joint out entirely to within 14" of the next node, or at least 1/4" past the nasty spot.

JD - the reply to your email I tried to send keeps getting bounced bact to me - sorry.

Al