Ideas for large 120' by 6' raised planter in Las Vegas
Kimberly
6 years ago
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Comments (17)
Embothrium
6 years agoKimberly
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Planter Design for Desert Species
Comments (5)I don't believe the depth of your planters will be the limiting factor in anchoring your trees in the planter. More important is the available surface area of the raised beds and your ability to efficiently irrigate the anticipated root zone that will support the tree. A good product we have started to use in our park system that would really work well in your situation is the "Netafin" drip line. This drip line can be set up in a grid pattern and installed very easily in a raised bed and would provide a high degree of irrigation uniformity giving you the potential to grow a substansial root system. We work with many desert trees in windy conditions and under cultivation find most of the roots in no more then three feet of soil and mostly two feet of soil. A more problematic situation developes when initial irrigation is limited to the existing root zone at planting time without enough irrigation in the "anticipated" or potential root zone resulting in a root mass filling the original hole and not spreading out around the tree. The Netafin system in our park projects so far shows a great deal of promise in this regard since it irrigates a sizeable area below the tree with no need to make future renovations to the system. If you gave some thought to your soil texture and mixed in a gravel mix for structure I don't think you would need an additional "artificial" anchoring system. Keep in mind you can't grow trees in a shoe box. The depth of your beds is fine it's the total area that is what you need to increase .. perhaps ( I don't know what it is ? ). I also think if you need to stake trees for two to three years someting is not right somewhere ?? I'd be interested in hearing more about your project. Good Day ......See MoreHe Meant Well thread
Comments (2)I had a couple of pink flamingos in my yard for awhile. I named them 'Tongue' and 'Cheek'. They finally died. I think of,embarrassment....See More6 questions -- recap of 2007 tomato season
Comments (30)how many varieties/plants I grew this year: 9 varieties/20 plants  8 OP, 1 hybrid favorites this year and why: Togo Trifle  very, very tasty, vigorous grower, earlier than most of my tomatoes and extremely prolific. Unfortunately, the first hit by blight (most likely verticillium), but not until 120 days after planting in ground Opalka  great flavor, very meaty paste tomato, easy to seed and I thought, very pretty. I did have to be careful around the plant because the tomatoes fell off the vine easily. least liked varieties this year and why: Heidi, but only because I also planted Cherokee purple, Black from Tula, Amish Paste, Green Zebra, Brandywine red and Sungold and like those better. Heidi was the least tasty of the bunch, but still had good flavor. It also was extremely prolific, held on the vine forever, completely resisted the blight and is, in fact, still producing tomatoes as I type. what I did that worked: Raised beds roto-tilled (they were just made) with natural clay soil, lots of composted sheep manure (organic), shrimp compost (organic) and lime. Interplanted with Jolly Jester Marigold (grew tall, worked well), Tiger Marigold (too small), Borage, Basil and Cosmos. The whole garden was organic and planted with tons of pollinator/predator insect attracting plants. Plants were trellised or caged and I did not pinch back the suckers. I planted everything WAY TOO CLOSE (I didnÂt believe how big tomatoes would get on the east coast  now I do), but it worked this year by shading the tomatoes and preventing cracking during the rain and sunscald. I donÂt think IÂll plant that closely again  might be a recipe for disaster in a wet year. Problems: a)Planting all my seedlings indoors before I even had a garden! I overestimated how quickly I could build the raised beds and didnÂt have enough room by the time they needed to go into the ground. b)Blight (possibly verticillium) about 120+ days after the plants went into the soil. It damaged slowly, only hit some plants/part of the plant and happened after IÂd already had a huge harvest. c) Not securing the cages well enough. They blew over in the wind on top of my peppers. Luckily the roots didnÂt rip out and the peppers survived. surprises this year: How much bigger the plants grew than in California, how many tomatoes I harvested (lots!) and how incredibly tasty everything was. what I'll try next year: Expanding the garden to have a dedicated, securely trellised (away from all peppers) area for the tomatoes. Add more compost and possibly Rootshield for the blight. Also maybe plant some plants later if the blight is time-in-ground dependent. Varieties  all from this year plus JoeÂs plum, black brandywine, orange strawberry and definitely more plants of Opalka. Also, I will make more salsa with the Togo TrifleÂs. I didnÂt make enough....See Morelarge fountain
Comments (10)Actually NOLA, tile is easy to do. Thats a good suggestion by tfons. We do stone, not tile, but its the same process. I used to sell tile a few years ago, high end lines. The one inch are easy to bend around a curve, they come on a "mat" that can be cut, so the tile grout lines stay straight. You don't need to pick a "color", just go with a stone look neutral. I know the mastic( glue that holds it on) is very sticky and holds to most anything. And you can add an additive (forget the name) that sticks like a cheap suit, dries in 15 minutes for vertical surfaces. I have actually done tile myself, all on my own, when my hubby was out of town and I was impatient. It was a shower wall, not too hard at all. Tile can go underwater, so why not under dirt? So the grout lines get dirty, so what. Its a planter. You can seal the tile with a good sealer that is water resistant, mostly for the grout but yours wont' show in the planter anyway. Honestly this may be a gorgeous idea and easier than trying to paint - epoxy-overlay-fix - ugly concrete and not pay a fortune. I wish I was closer to N O but I'm in Vegas. I'm always up for a creative challenge. Glass can go underwater too, so you could do a glass tile but they are pricey. We did a glass waterfall wall for a casino a few years ago, it was solid glass but we just used a mastic ( grout for glass) on the whole thing where it attached to the walls/floor and it still is perfect abput hmmmm 6 years later. At least with tile/stone you wont have to do so much surface preparation like with an epoxy/paint/stain as you are covering the cement. I really like this idea, gotta give credit to tfons. hope this helps, Barb...See MoreKimberly
6 years agoKimberly
6 years agoEmbothrium
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoKimberly
6 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
6 years agotoronado_3800
6 years agoblakrab Centex
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoEmbothrium
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoDave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agohoovb zone 9 sunset 23
6 years agoblakrab Centex
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoEmbothrium
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoblakrab Centex
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
6 years ago
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