We have full folding bifold doors in our bathroom and love them! Our contractor replaced the frosted glass inserts with new lami glass inserts, replaced the Baldwin chrome hinges/pulls with new Baldwin brushed nickel hinges/pulls, and installed new Richelieu piano hinges between the slab doors. He then refinished and repainted the doors. We considered replacing our doors with new doors, but the quotes we got were crazy expensive!! We're still under construction so haven't installed the doors yet. Meanwhile attached are photos of original doors before we started our remodel.

Marvin Ultimate is a wood frame rather than fiberglass. Its more expensive than Integrity overall and there are mixed signals about the longevity of cased wood windows versus fiberglass or vinyl. Marvin is as a whole is very highly regarded tho and they are the producer of both lines. The Ultimates have more customization options over fiberglass Integrity. There is just some things you can't easily do with fiberglass as compared to wood. For example, our home is going to have some gothic arch top windows. I couldn't get them in Integrity and had to again go Ultimate for those particular windows. And believe me, they aren't cheap (probably due to the custom gothic radius). But the outer colors coordinate between Ultimate and Integrity so it will hopefully be a flawless mix. Windows aren't installed just yet or I'd post pics. I wouldn't believe white painted interior on the wood ultrex would be any less clean looking than all ultrex assuming whoever is painting knows what they are doing. I'd definitely track down a showroom and compare the two lines side by side. With the Wood ultrex its just a more classic looking window profile I think. The all ultrex is quite plain and almost, I dunno, cheap looking in comparison. Its definitely the more durable option tho, no paint to scratch (although the fiberglass can be painted) or wood surface to ding... Its a judgement call for you really. The Ultimate sliders come in 4 panel yes, in 10, 12 and 16 feet wide it looks like straight out of the catalogue. OXXO configuration so the 2 middle sections open to form one opening and net clear openings here listed in my catalogue lead me to believe if both are open, there is no obstruction in the center. The 12' wide one has a net clear opening value of 57 7/16" (or 59 for the non french door) The ultimate sliders have 2 versions..basic patio door and french door. The french door version has wider rails framing the glass, to mimic the look of a french door. The basic version has more glass area and thinner rails so if you go that route make sure you choose the model you prefer To throw more choices your way they do also have these in 3 panel like the integrity but in greater widths. I see here a 12' three panel as well if you just want one active slider but a little wider than the 3foot operator of the 9 wide integrity..lol What you should be looking for to find out how drafty these types of doors are in order to compare them to each other is air infiltration values. Unfortunately with Marvin these can be a bit of a hassle to come by but you could take numbers from a similar manufacturers slider and compare it to your lanai or bifold doors to maybe get a rough idea.

Good side is that it means my window guy is legit and looking out for me, bad side is that I now have to spend $13K (:eek:) to get the look I wanted with this room. He was pretty clear that part of it is they will need to beef up the structure to support the doors.

kudzu, there are no jambs. The pivot base is screwed right into the top and bottom of the door opening on the problem door; thus into the wood under the drywall at the top, and into the wood floor at the bottom. I just went and checked it. The base is secure top and bottom. It's the metal pivot going into the door that is wobbling. The door starts tilting at the top, where it starts hitting the side of the door opening at the top. When the people installing the doors installed them, I guess they didn't know that a solid door needed more. I ordered the doors custom made so I could stain them to match my kitchen, and they did say they'd never seen anything like them. Last time he replaced them, my husband just went to Menard's and bought them, so I don't know if they were labeled for load capacity. Said if these failed, we were out of options. That's got to be it. Thank you so much for telling me about this! These are just too flimsy for the load of the solid wood oak door we bought. The door is tilting again. What kind of load capacity should I be looking for? Should I just weigh the door when we take it off? Can you get a variety of ones with different loads at a common home improvement store, or is this something I will need to order?