I have seen this type of damage a lot over the years being in the homeowners insurance business and here is my take on it. Based upon the drywall damage as seen in the photos it needs to be pulled and replaced. While it's possible some of it may be dried with fans the cost to do that versus cutting it out and replacing just isn't worth it. Plus you really need to get the framing behind it dry as quickly as possible. The entire continuous ceiling should then be painted to match. The floors may be a bit more difficult as you already have some cupping of the wood. Usually the cupping and warping will get worse before it gets better so don't be suprised over the next day or two if it looks and feels worse. The GC probably wants to wait and see if thats the case or not. If the cupping is very slight it may go back down but it usually takes a few weeks for wood floors to dry out completely after being wet enought to show cupping. Worst case scenario is the entire floor will have to be resanded and finished, the problem with that is they can't sand flooring with too high of a moisture content or it will buckle again so the damaged area should be pulled and replaced as you are not in a situation to wait a month or longer for it to dry out. You also don't want to put off the floors until after you have moved in because you then have a whole lot of furniture and contents to worry about moving etc.. Plus refinishing floors is dusty and smelly work requiring you to be out of the house for several days once it's done. Unfortunately you can't sand and refinish just the area and get it to look right. If this was a pantry or small bathroom you may get away with it but not in the middle of the kitchen. It's too bad because if you have to resand it you have just lost some of the useful life of your floor as you can only sand it so many times before it has to be replaced. Hopefully it turns out not to be too bad and it can easily be repaired but if not hang in there and work through it. The idea of getting a water mitigation company out to take a look is also not a bad idea just for a second opinion. They can use moisture meters to tell you how bad the floors are and if they can dry them or not. Good luck.

Hi, all, I happened to jump on and see these recent comments. We actually had the blistering problem on our windows and made some comments higher up in this thread. Looked like a bad contact paper install that looked like the pics at the top of this thread. I was able to figure out the local dealer that the windows were purchased from who in turn brought Andersen into the loop for an inspection. My local dealer had seen this issue in other homes. It is not due to water, sunlight, etc, etc. It is a faulty glue job by Andersen!!! DO NOT LET THEM TELL YOU OTHERWISE! And the whole window does not need replacement; just the jambs. We had a rather large house with many windows. The rep at first had said they would replace the jambs and they would provide material but we would pay install costs. We argued with them that this was ridiculous and was clearly an Andersen issue and the rep quickly flipped during the inspection visit and agreed to pay for it all. We also got them to agree to pay for any more jambs as we suspected the issue would show up on ones that weren't obvious at the time. In the end, Andersen provided parts, our local dealer did the install with removal and cleanup and we were good to go. Thank goodness as we took advantage of the market and sold the house last spring. So be persistent! Andersen most certainly knows this is a defect. P.S. Our windows were just out of warranty at the time but was not an issue with jamb replacement.

I found how to fix a late model clothes dryer that needed a new heater element; and more recently how to fix my electric corded lawn mower (a $5 part that took 5 minutes to install), repair shop would have charged over $70. I learned how to disassemble, clean and reassemble various vacuum cleaners also. BTW in the process of learning to repair the lawnmower, I learned that it is important to to open the cover and clean out accumulated grass clippings - I was shocked to see all that were in mine - because they can actually get into the motor eventually and ruin it.

Right - you don't normally fertilize lotus until you get an aerial leaf. They are super easy to burn when they first start growing in the spring from rhizomes. I have learned to plant them into a good fertile soil (soil from my vegetable garden works well) and to give seedlings a small amount of fertilizer - very small - if they are showing any signs of deficiency. That may be what is causing the yellow streaks in your lotus leaves. Sometimes the plant produces leaves that look a little weird opening up, but they usually grow out alright. I normally use a water soluble garden or house plant fertilizer put into a piece of rolled up coffee filter - that gets put into the mud the plant is growing in. Use just a pinch or two - a tiny amount! Don't put the fertilizer too close to the new growth. Osmocote and Nutricote time release fertilizers work too. Enjoy your plants! You will have to post pictures of them here when they bloom for you! They are looking good!