Please help me with my Monstera!! :(
Camilla Fox
6 years ago
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fawnridge (Ricky)
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6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoRelated Discussions
help me identify 'rare' monstera
Comments (3)Sorry, this is not a Monstera but at least appears to be a hybridized form of Philodendron bipinnafolium. P. bipinnafolium is a very common plant species although there are a few natural hybrids found in certain areas of South America that are extremely rare including one known popularly as Philodendron 'joepii'. It is extremely variable in its form and can take on many shapes, even on a single plant. These changes are known as ontogeny and a link to explain that further can be found on the page I am linking below. Monstera have a unique feature which can easily be found. Just run your finger up the petiole (the stalk that supports the leaf) and Monstera will possess a "bump" found right at eh point where the petiole inserts into the leaf blade. That "bump" is known as a geniculum and allows the leaves to rotate slightly in order to find brighter light. Monstera typically also have a canal running down their petioles (known as being canaliculate) as well as petiolar sheaths at the base of the petiole. A petiolar sheath appears to be somewhat like a pair of "wings" on each side of the petiole at the point where the petiole (stalk) grows from the bud on the stem (central axis of the plant). These wings are not permanent and fall off the plant shortly after the leaf emerges. Sorry if any of this is technical but that is the way plant genera and species are separated from each other. I will also be glad to give you a link to a list of understandable definitions if you would like to read them. Steve Here is a link that might be useful: Philodendron bipinnafolium...See MoreMy pathetic monstera...help!
Comments (9)It looks like you still have the plant in its grow pot. That's fine. Just make sure it has drainage holes. Assuming it has drainage holes, fill up the sink with room temperature water (definitely not cold or hot) and plunk the pot in. You want the water at about the soil line. Let it soak for 30-45 minutes. Then empty the sink and leave the plant there for another half hour to thoroughly drain. Monsteras are tropical, and it's somewhat of a challenge to give them too much water (unless you're watering literally every day -- don't do that). Get a dowel or bamboo barbecue skewer and use THAT to tell you when to water. Stab it all the way down to the bottom of the pot and water when the stick comes out mostly dry. Monsteras are thirsty creatures, so check often. Also, never water by the calendar. plants drink more on hot dry days than cold wet ones, so you can never rely on arbitrary schedules. The other crucial thing with tropicals is humidity. There are lots of good posts here about evaporation trays and humidifiers to increase the relative humidity around the plant. Monsteras want their RH above 60% and will grumpily settle for less. Below 30% and desperate for water, they look like this. Also, you're totally right: fenestration is a great sign about the plant's overall health! This is an essentially healthy plant that's currently facing some major drought stress. It should bounce back very quickly....See MoreMonstera in gritty mix, slowly dying - please help me troubleshoot!
Comments (30)G - for some reason your most recent post shows up in the 'Activity' tab on my user page, but not here. I sort of deduced you were in some manner a part of the medical care community by way of your phraseology. Edited to say: The lost post showed up around 5PM Christmas Eve - strange, that. .... I always find it fascinating to see evidence of how our physiology and pathophysiology is really not that fundamentally different from our green relatives. Like how animals will occasionally find walling off (like plants do in CODIT) to be the most viable - or only - way to control an infection (e.g. abscesses or TBC granulomas). Or the whole thing about the ability to fend off (opportunistic) infections/infestations as a function of overall vitality levels you reference over and over. I see many similarities as well, even with my pitifully limited knowledge compared to yours, and it makes me tend to want to draw parallels and comparisons between plants and animals. The problem with doing that, even if the equivalence offers a path to instant understanding, is, a lot of folks know what anthropomorphism is and have often point to it as a logical fallacy. I often refer to and get away with using phrases like 'plant central and its chemical messengers' because it saves a ton of writing and I'm pedantic enough as it is. I use those terms to convey the idea that, for the most part, plants' responses to their world are more orderly (until they can't be) than it would seem. To illustrate that I'm intentionally being anthropomorphic, I usually recognize it in advance by setting the word/phrase apart with "quotes" or an 'apostrophe', which seems to work reasonably well. But to get back to the topic at hand: Yes ....... "Older plants that become infected often remain viable for a period after infection but usually die. Often, seemingly healthy basal shoots or leaves will occur, only to collapse from the infection after a short time when the pathogen spreads systemically into the new growth." That's the most fitting description of what I have seen happening with my plant. And while you have avoided spelling it out so far (or well, maybe you did: "followed by involvement and death of the whole organism") my conclusion is that what I have at hand is a systemic infection that is too advanced now to be controlled. Sooo, aside from sitting the plant under some lights and hoping for a miracle I guess I should look at getting another set of cuttings from the mother plant for a second try... I'm not sure what additional info you're looking for, but: For vascular wilt diseases, think of the xylem as where the battle takes place. Vascular wilts can also be bacterial or caused by water molds (oomycetes). Usually the pathogen enters through a compromised root or through cracks that often form at root laterals, but there are several other POEs, like stomata, hydathodes, insect penetrations, grafting, notching, poor pruning practices ..... Even though both xylem and phloem are accessible to the pathogen, and the phloem is rich in sugars, it usually 'chooses' xylem tracheary elements that provide a nutritionally poor environment. It's widely thought that this occurs because the high osmotic pressure of living phloem cells makes penetration difficult. Symptoms of the disease are usually made manifest acropetally, which is why I wasn't convinced the disease was localized in the termination of the foliage. Which leads me to my next set of questions: - Can these fungal pathogens survive outside a host for some time? Definitely. Spores can survive (even over-winter outdoors) in soil, plant debris, dead host tissues (bark, .....) an infected water source, in insect vectors. Spores can also form a hard mass that includes a food source, and the pathogen can survive as mycelium/ hyphae. As in: Can I reuse the pot and soil mix for the new cuttings or do I have to treat them in some way beforehand (with heat for example)? Right now I feel like just letting them dry out completely should suffice. Given the persistence of the pathogen, you shouldn't reuse the soil or the pot w/o treating it. I would clean the pot thoroughly and soak in a .05% solution of water/sodium hyperchlorite (9 parts water: 1 part household bleach @ 5.25% so-hypo). Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry in full sun. You can reuse the soil w/o worry about fungal infections if you bring a pot of water to a boil, add the soil, cover the pot, return water to a boil, turn the burner off and allow to cool w/o removing the lid, strain, allow to dry. - Can you give me a quick reminder for the correct handling of cuttings? I remember the following: Make clean cuts with a sharp blade to avoid jagged or crushed edges (another parallel to human medicine) and sprinkle the cuts with cinnamon. Best to use something razor sharp - I'm thinking scalpels, for you. I normally use a straight edge razor blade (I buy in boxes of 100) or any of 3 high carbon steel tools I keep sharp on a 3,000 grit water stone to way beyond shaving sharp. For better results, skip the cinnamon - flowers of sulfur is widely available and much more effective as a fungicide. No need to use anything else on propagules if you're using a rooting aid that includes a prophylactic fungicide. Be sure to include at least one node of the trunk for each cutting. Depending on the distance between nodes, 2-3 nodes beneath the soil line is best. At least 2 nodes above the soil line is a good call, too. If one of the distal nodes fail to push a branch from the leaf axil, you have a spare/spares. If you want a single stem and you see more than one axillary branch, rub one off after roots are established enough that you won't be breaking a bunch of roots if the propagule is disturbed, rub one axillary branch off (or snip with sharp scissors) and retain the preexisting leaf for the time being (food factory). I use mostly gritty mix for cuttings, and the uppermost of the nodes covered by soil will tend toward going dry unless the propagule is tented, you're diligent about spritzing (the soil) to keep the top moist, or you covering it (soil). I often cut a slit in Al foil and fashion a loose cover from that in order to ensure the entire soil mass remains moist. If ever you're using a medium that supports a perched water column, please to be sure the proximal end of the propagule is not submerged in the perched water (hypoxia/ anoxia). Cut leaves in half to reduce foliage that has to be supported. This is often a judgment call, but it's better to err on the side of too much reduction of foliage rather than not enough. The drought stress can cause abscission of ALL of the foliage, which is very counterproductive and to be avoided. You'll often hear that NO foliage should be removed, but those with a long history of repotting and propagation know that you have to be able to adjust your thinking at times, so there is no hard/fast rule when it comes to adjusting the volume of foliage to arrive at the desired end. Plant immediately in soil (I'll use the 5:1:1 mix now) and water daily until enough roots have formed. Hold back fertilizer until there's new growth. Depending on the plant material, it's sometimes better to wait for callus to form over the wound before you stick the propagule. For instance, dormant deciduous cuttings, most evergreen cuttings, and a good measure of succulents do best by waiting an appropriate interval for that plant. I've pruned Aeonium in Feb and left the snippings on a paper towel on the basement work bench. Roots grew from the stems and the snippings too right off in mid-May when I decided they'd earned the right to remain viable by virtue of their mulishness. After taking the cuttings I won't be able to plant them for a day and I'll have to transport them. What would be the best way to handle that? Wrap the cut ends in a clean paper towel? Dry or wet? A moist paper towel in a bag or simply lay the cuttings on their side and cover with the moistened medium you intend to use. Whew! You really made me think!I hope that was what you were looking for. Al...See MoreHelp me save my Monstera Deliciosa!
Comments (3)Agree with Jean, looks like he was underwatered for a long time. These guys don't need a ton of water, so don't swing the other way and water too much, but they do need a good drink when the top third of the soil is dry. Conveniently, they will sweat out excess water through their leaves, so you'll know if you need to give it less next time....See MoreCamilla Fox
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoCamilla Fox
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6 years agolast modified: 6 years agofawnridge (Ricky)
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6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoCamilla Fox
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6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoPhoto Synthesis
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6 years agolaticauda
6 years agoCamilla Fox
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoPhoto Synthesis
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