Sorry, I don't have any skill when it comes to layout advice but I can tell you about replacing windows. We ended up raising three window openings so we could put counters underneath and lowering and moving another window opening. We removed the windows ourselves and we did our own trim work interior and exterior to match the rest of our 1915 house. We also repaired the exterior stucco ourselves. We hired out someone to install the new windows and to do the framing (there were some header issues and as it turns out some other support problems). The cost of labor was $2,000 for the four window openings (three window openings of about 70" wide by 45" high, one 35"w x 45"h). It was already a total gut job and we insulated while we were at it and got new drywall so I do not consider any of that additional costs. It was a big decision to make whether to move the windows or not but we are SO HAPPY we did. We also have a small kitchen and moving the windows made the layout process easier. I would get bids on the cost to move the window - the brick work might not be as expensive as you think. Also if you are getting new windows I think there are still tax incentives that apply. If you do decide to just drywall over it, my neighbor did that and just put blackout material over the window so it always looks like a curtain is drawn. It is not very noticeable but the window is under a carport and the window sill is above eye level. Personally I think with a small kitchen you are best to keep both window openings - it keeps it from becoming cave-like.

smaller mirror, thinner window trim (that current trim is a little dated anyway) and lose that over head lighting. It's way too bulky and way too 1985. That mirror you have is meant for an antique style set-up. doesn't go w/your vanity or your faucet. do thinner sconces or a pendant light.or a two light over head light. the other option is to redo the top w/new faucet and a right off-set sink. redo the window so you have a white frame that looks like this

I agree with you that this is a very challenging room in which to place furniture. I made some notes on your drawing below. I'd like to see you keep the bed area more restful -- (would love to see the tv removed from this room but understand some folks like to watch tv in bed) -- and so think building a "room divider" between the bed and the hallway to the bathroom would work well. I've designed a couple of master suites with this room divider separation, and frankly first saw the idea in a swanky hotel room in New York City. The photos below show the idea. FYI the doors on either side of the bed lead to the master closet, and the room divider opposite holds the tv on the side facing the bed (he likes to sit in the chair and watch tv), with a built-in full-length mirror on the other side that lines up with doorway to master bathroom. I recommend eliminating the closet located near the head of your bed, so perhaps you could build your room divider with closet/cabinetry on the other side facing the hall to bathroom to add back some of that hanging/storage space. This would also place both your closets together and make that hallway space feel more like a dressing area with the bathroom handy, too. Lastly, I recommend relocating the entry door to your bedroom space as shown. You will have more privacy at the bed/sleeping area. I don't know if you have children or others in your home who don't always knock before entering the room, but if they were to come in to the master suite via the closet hallway, that would give you an extra 3 seconds of privacy. I've made other notes on your sketch below. I hope this is helpful food for thought. Have fun!

That could work but I think you won't be able to put a vanity longer than 42" because you need some space to walk between the toilet and the vanity. I think it is a good size vanity in term of counter top and storage might not be bad if you use wide drawers. I put a little space between the tub and the vanity if you prefer it that way. I believe the plumbing of the vanity will not be in the way of the pocket door. Is your plumbing for the tub on the West wall? If so, it might be a little hard to reach the faucet if you are not standing in the tub (I think an adult can do it but the vanity should not be too high):