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Flooring Design Dilemma Bathrooms

Bathroom Floor Tile Advice

6 years ago

last modified: 6 years ago

Hi, we are renovating our small bathroom with 12x24 floor tile. If we run the tile parallel to tub/wall, we get the dreaded 2" sliver. against the wall opposite the tub. I see a couple of options. one would be to cut 1-2 inches from the full tile against the tub, and add it to the sliver on the wall, giving us 3-4 in there. Is this common practice? Or, just turn the tile and go perpendicular to the tub. Thoughts?

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Comments (4)

SHELEDY SEES
Original Author
6 years ago
Hi, yeah they were going to be in a 1/3 stagger if run parallel to the tub/wall, but if i turn them then i would do a brick pattern. I think turning them is the way to go.
SJ McCarthy
6 years ago
To the original question, yes it is REQUIRED that you "take from one side" to ensure you do NOT end up with a sliver on the other side. Not only is this common, it is considered "Best Practices".

A tile setter will know this and do it for you. Personally, I think those tiles are too big for your space. Turning them will only create the same issue in the OTHER direction. In fact, if you turn them (seams run parallel to the door jam) you will be cutting HUGE amounts of tiles. And every time you make a cut, you run the risk of destroying the entire tile. More cuts = more waste.

Please investigate a small tile. These big tiles are used in massive spaces - because the large spaces show off the tile to their fullest potential. A tiny bathroom will simply feel like you used the wrong sized tile....for financial reasons.
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Did you skip putting hardibacker (or similar) on the wood subfloor before you added the radiant heat mat and tile? If you did, that's probably what caused the damage. My heart sinks for your pain. I wouldn't wish that kind of rework on anyone. But if your tiles are moving, they likely aren't attached to the mat any more. So if you cut the grout, they should come up without pulling the wires with them. If there are still some attachment points, I'd think you could chisel them off from between the tile & mat and possibly preserve the wiring. We used Warming Systems under our tile because it was half the cost of the mats and just a little more work--you tape the wire to the floor. If you can't salvage your SunTouch mats (pulling them up so you can put in Hardibacker may be more destructive than removing the tile), it might be a cheaper replacement alternative. Best of luck. I'd be interested in how it works out for you.
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I was also concerned about the marble tile (and now even more so) Thanks for pointing it out. (Especially since this is primarily the bathroom for two ten year old girls). Jamie - the bathroom is pretty small - approx 30sf. I am tiling the entire shower, the outside of the tub enclosure (using a drop in) and one complete wall (the wall with the vanity ad mirror). The opposite wall will be painted white. There will be a frameless glass door and There is one frosted window in the shower , so not that much light. I was hoping with the high hats, there will be enough. I actually love dark bathrooms (my next one will be a black bathroom) so that part, I don't mind. I'm just hoping it is light enough to capture the green. Dragonfly- thanks for the advice. So if we go with marble instead of tile, 8 x 8, polished black and honed white. Do you think that this would be prettier than cement matte? The bathroom is pretty small and I'd prefer not to cover up the floor with rugs and mats so if that's the only way to make it safe, I'd prefer to forgo the beauty of marble if I have to just cover it all up.
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Bump. Any advice?
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PRO
Cinar Interiors, Inc.
6 years ago
Turn the tile.
PRO
Creative Ceramic & Marble/ Bill Vincent
6 years ago
This is one I'm working on now
SHELEDY SEES thanked Creative Ceramic & Marble/ Bill Vincent

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