@hallettco @Joseph Corlett, LLC suggested in order to hide an unsightly underside of a quartz counter overhang (in my case i have storage cabinets underneath and I can see what looks like several large orange rust stains) to seal and paint it. since it is not the finished top, but rough and unfinished do you need the sealer he recommended to get any paint to adhere?

The island appears to be a foot inside the entry into the FR. Reducing the size is warranted, but more important is the seating on the stove side. It is likely this will impact flow. Is this 39"? There are several options to support the walnut top. A single leg centered, two legs on each side of the cabs that extend out (see pic), two legs at end if counter or supports that are not visible unless looking from below counter. The latter is common with granite tops. You stated there is not a need for support per the company and your physicist FIL. Have you seen any if the tops made by this company? Mine certainly flexed without support, but it also ran parallel to the cabs. We have 4 grand kids 3 and under and I knew they would climb up to the counter from the stools.

You'll need new skins, wider than 48''. Detach the full height cabinets under the proposed overhang. Attach 2 2x4 pressure treated pieces of lumber to the slab with a Hilti or ramset where I show the RED lines. Also use some construction adhesive. Yes, I like belts and suspenders. :) Build a 34.5''H pony walls with conventional framing techniques, taking the wall to the end of the cabinets. Attach the existing cabinets to the pony wall. Reattach the full height cabinets to the pony wall studs. Here is where you will need the custom steel for the 33'' long steel pieces (BLUE) needed to support the overhang. You will also need 12'' ones for the side overhang. They cannot be flat steel, as that is too flexible. 1'' tubing is too thick for your full overlay cabinets, even with the doors adjusted as far down as they will go. You could use 2''W flat 1/4" steel with a 3/8'' ridge welded to it to create rigidity, in a T shape, flat side up. Holes would need to be drilled into it to attach to the pony wall. Once the steel is sourced and created, you can rout out the pony wall (2 step process, once for the ridge, once for the flat stock) and top of the face frame to accept it. Once the steel is attached, then the skins (GREEN) can be applied to the sides and ends to cover the pony wall. You may want some Outside Corner molding and Batten molding as well to hide the seams. This is a serious design deficiency on your KD's part. He should arrange for the cabinetry materials gratis, and also pay something toward the steel. Labor for this will need to have good experience dealing with finished cabinets and routing, so let the KD pay something towrds that as well.

Thanks for input. Removing backsplash not an option & of course decisions are easier when replacing all! But, sounds like your idea is to tie new counter in to backsplash color. The backsplash & granite do look more color complementary to each other when seen in person! The granite background isn’t as white as appears & is warmer. It’s Santa Cecilia granite but the lightest example we’ve ever seen of it.