Weighing all the preferences you've stated, a rose I encourage you to consider is 'Gruss an Aachen, Climbing.'. IMO, it's an ideal climber for planting near an entrance because it's not overly rampant, and is practically prickle-free. The blossoms have an English rose "look". Opening with a distinct peachy tint and maturing to a creamy white, the blooms meet ALL your color preferences. The foliage is lovely and, under my growing conditions, is very healthy. It's a rose that performs well as a young plant, and, in my experience, seems only to improve with each passing season. The major problem with GaA, Cl for American gardeners is that it's always been extremely rare in this country. There's good news, however: In late 2011, budwood for the rose was provided to Roses Unlimited in SC. It's possible that RU may have a few plants available this season, and I expect it will be readily available from them for fall 2013/spring 2014 planting.

Hi seil, Dang, I was afraid of that. Guess I'll have to start hacking at Dr. Huey to know what I'm really dealing with. It is quite vigorous but only has flowers for about 10 days in spring and has to be sprayed repeatedly to prevent BS and just isn't justifying the space it's taking up in the garden. The climbers you suggested are all lovely. After browsing the David Austin site I think I am now leaning toward something in the apricot family. I really like Fighting Temeraire, and it is a repeat bloomer and looks like it will fit my space limitations at 8 feet.

I have no head for heights and that makes me feel a bit giddy but it must be fun to look out from there on a sunny day... I think I would grow the rose up the wall on the left and a clematis along the railings.. I would plant the clematis on the right at the corner junction to train the clematis along both railings. However, depending where the sun rises, you might find most of the flower stems try to grow on the other side of the railings away from you and some pulling back in and training this side may be necessary, so you get the most benefit. I'm not sure if I would use 2 individual pots rather than 1 large one. I grow a rose in a pot that's much smaller... it's about 1 foot from front to back, about 2 and half feet lengthways, and about 2 feet deep. The rose I grow in it is 'Benjamin Britten' and it's been there for 3 seasons now and is thriving. It will be good for another 3 I should think and I won't change the soil until I see signs of deterioration. It's about 5 foot tall and I've had about 4 flushes this year, and it's trying for a 5th but the weather has cooled.. I grow bulbs, Pelargoniums, Violas, Candytuft, along with the rose during summer.. nothing too invasive rootwise though. 9th Sept '16 'Benjamin Britten' in a pot... ..you can see a glimpse of my container here below, it's quite narrow across the top. I was taking a photo of my Molinia 'Karl Foerster'. I know I'm a long way off but just trying to give you some encouragement. Hope all goes well....

LIV - I'm in zone 5 too and I have a lot of climbers, so you're right to ask for advice before you get too far in your plans and work too hard. We want you to enjoy your roses rather than get disappointed in your first planting, so that's why we're being discouraging about your original plan and encouraging other roses or combinations of where to plant what you have and what you could have. You can plant these NDs but I really wouldn't recommend in front of the house. You could probably prune very hard each year and keep New Dawn a modest size, but odds are you'd also be cutting off most of your chances for rebloom or even a first bloom if you're trying to rein it in. Roses tend to bloom best at their preferred size, and climbers are particularly notorious for not wanting to bloom much until they've spent some time at their height where they want to bloom. That's why we in cold zones want to plant tip-hardy roses that keep their canes after the winter so they can keep growing taller and putting out more laterals. Any climbers will bloom better if you can tie the initial canes horizontally to allow them to put out canes growing up off that sideways cane (we call these laterals). If you don't want a couple of "powder puff" blooms on the end of a tall narrow climber, that's the kind of treatment you want to do for the rose. The narrow width of your trellis doesn't really allow much room for the canes to be bent sideways and as others have said if ND is happy in this spot it will actively and aggressively pull it off your house and attack you and your neighbors when they come to the door. So here's your dilemma if you try to leave the NDs in the front of the house where you have them: scenario 1 - like mine your NDs will not grow beyond knee high in 3-4 years and never bloom, eventually dying, so you're disappointed scenario 2 - your NDs are happy with this spot in front of your house and grow to the size of anything like Oakley's or Daisy's, totally outgrowing this space and making you and your neighbors unhappy scenario 3 - you vigorously and constantly prune back a happy ND to the point where it is now unhappy and puts out only leaves with no blooms I'd opt for scenario 4, where you put them to the sides of your house where they can expand to their heart's content if they're happy, or they won't wreck your vision for the front of the house if you're unhappy. There's a circle off to the left of the original photo that could probably rein in one of the NDs, and there's (unnecessary?) grass beyond that on the side of the house that you really didn't want to mow, did you (smile)? You asked about the type of support that can hold a happy ND in our zones, and my suggestion would be something like the 8'x6' arch where I have a vigorous and aggressively happy Quadra (yes, that's all one rose): If you find that after putting the NDs under an arch like this at the side of your house you end up with scenario 1 and the scrawny runts look ridiculous under the arch, that now becomes an excuse to buy more roses (something we all can help you do with glee). You won't know however if you have a happy ND for about 4 years, since that's how long it takes climbers to mature so be patient and let the set down roots for a while. Moving the roses now when you've just planted them won't set them back particularly but moving them next spring or the next when they start to overgrow their space may delay them maturing even longer What I'd recommend is not putting a rose on the trellises next to the front door. Those are ideal spots for the Jackmanii clematis and that's a vigorous enough clematis to more than fill those trellis spots. Here's what Jackmanii can do if you let it spread out to its heart's content - this is the purple spread out all along the back side of a maybe 10' square cage for my blueberries (again this is one clematis plant): You can contain Jackmanii more narrowly on your trellises but be prepared for a lot of foliage to rein in and encourage on the trellis. This is a different purple clem on the double shepherd's hook (swamped) plus a truly thuggish pink Princess Diana clem attacking a rose on the right. So, if you put the clematis on the trellises by the door, and ND to the side or sides of your house, you now have trellises that are open on the far ends of your house. If you want a rose there, you want something that will naturally stay narrow. Embothrium's suggestion of Aloha is a great one, and mine is cane hardy for me in zone 5. It stays no wider than about 3' if it has something to climb or lean on, and I can get away with loosely attaching mine to another shepherd's hook rather than a trellis, but it would prefer something like a trellis I'm sure. Do be aware that roses need to be attached (like with pantyhose strips or those green velcro plant holds) as opposed to clematis that attach themselves to things. Here's Aloha fairly early in the summer before she has put out a lot of laterals - you can see I hooked her under the support and she's just now starting to bloom off the sides that are facing vertical. She'll pretty much hide the hook by the end of the season, but you can tell that she's relatively happy being tall and narrow. Other hardy roses with similar narrow growth habits include Poseidon (a lavender) or Queen of Sweden (pink fluffy blooms) - neither of these are really climbers but they'll get to 6' or so in our zone and can either be attached to the trellis or climb in front of it. You'd have the option of putting the clematis on these side trellis panels too and then the tall narrow rose in front, and letting some of the tendrils of the clematis twine around the rose for the effect. Jackmanii is a vigorous enough clem to overwhelm a whole lot of climbing roses in our zones, so this might keep yours from being swamped. You can see in the clem photo previously that Scepter'd Isle (another relatively narrow growing rose) is totally being pulled off its usual 6' height by the clem and it's bending down to the height of the 3' A/C unit. The Canadian roses (like Quadra) could handle Jackmanii, but I don't know of any that climb that will stay narrow or mannerly enough for the spaces you have. You might not be able to find the roses we discuss at average nurseries or other stores around town, but there are several nice Canadian mail order nurseries that would sell you these roses at $20 or so, which is quite reasonable and they have great quality plants with more choices. You'd want to wait till spring to plant these though, since it's not an ideal time to plant roses to have them put down a good root system. You're of course free to plant what you want where you want it and if you're happy it's not a wrong choice, but we're sharing some advice to help you avoid frustration if possible. Cynthia