Advice - New Dawn Climbing Rose and Clematis for a Newbie Gardener
LIV
5 years ago
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LIV
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Root Barrier For New Dawn Climbing Rose?
Comments (12)flaurabunda, the barrier has worked for me. The first year we moved into our house I added several flower beds. By the time fall arrived the trees had completely consumed and choked the plants in the bed. The trees have a knack of finding moisture so the watering of the beds acted as a magnet for the tree's roots. I ended up loosing a 1/3 of the plants planted and it caused me to do some serious research about how to cope with/control the problem. (obviously, this is my problem, not the tree's!) I will caution that it is not easy to install the barrier because depending on the size of the barrier you choose you have to dig at least a 24" trench for installation. I'm also not an expert on tree root growth, but I would also caution against attempting to restrict the tree's roots too close to the trunk as this could cause serious and long-term damage to the tree. Here is a link to the product I've used: http://www.deeproot.com/products/geomembranes/applications/bamboo-barrier.html...See MoreEasy Climbing Rose for Newbies?
Comments (6)Congratulations on the new house! The easy answer to your question is, there is no such thing as a 'pest free' rose of any type. There are insects in every climate which feast on roses. Generally, no climbing rose is significantly more resistant to insects than any other. When a situation is encountered where it appears the rose 'resists' bugs better, it is usually because of some other condition or situation, not the inherent bug resistance of the particular rose. Some are more cold hardy than others. Some are more disease resistant than others. What would serve you best is research with people local to you, perhaps your local rose society, which climbers are cold hardy for Boston and of them, which are the most disease resistant. But for "bugs", you either let Nature take her course and live with the results, or you choose to spray chemicals to take care of whatever bug issue you encounter. Kim...See MoreNewbie looking for clematis as companion to climbing roses
Comments (5)Hello Bellarosa, Wow your pictures are so lovely! I love your combinations and I loved the photo of Billy Baffin with the nepeta and liatris and daisies down below to hide Billy's knees. Absolutely gorgeous! You should be proud that you have such a lovely home and garden, with a hubby that will actually dig you holes! Wow. Your pictures gave me a breath of summer, since we still have a ways to go before we will be smelling any roses in New England (that we've grown ourselves, anyway!) Tmac96 - I don't grow any of the roses that you ordered, but I do grow the clematis that Bellarosa mentioned and those vines are very easy after the third year. I have a rose garden in the front of my house (sorry no photos like B.R.) in an oval with an obelisk in the center. The obelisk is where the clematis climbs. I have three separate types/colors growing together. Madame Julia Correvon, Etoile Violet and Comptess DiBouchard. Since I'm a "lazy gardener" I cut all the vines down to 12" from the ground when I see the forsythia bloom. Every year this will be a different time, based on the weather. If I had the vines growing on the roses or along with the roses on a trellis, I would cut the vines at the 12" height and simply unravel them from the rose bush, cutting away any pieces or parts that might harm a swelling rose bud. Do a little reading on the types of clematis, A,B, or C or 1,2, or 3. Try to plant the types that get cut to the ground in early spring -- they are easy and very rewarding. (I require - high R.O.I. Return on Investment!!!) It's not so much the cost of the plants, or even the hard hole-digging labor, -- it's the anticipation I can't stand. I love the plants that come back every year bigger and better than ever with hardly any work on my part. Oh! And O yeah, plenty of reading and posting on GardenWEB....See MoreNew Dawn Climbing Roses along a fence?
Comments (34)I have become convinced that ND is not suitable for an arbour unless you combine it with a swag and then diligently train the canes onto the swag. In late July we will be cutting our ND back completely, to the top of the arbour and starting over, swagging every cane of a suitable size from the begining. The consensus of rose folks seems to be that ND will survive the treatment. We didn't start swagging our ND until there was already a thick accumulation of canes on the top of the arbour and dangerous tentacles reaching out everywhere - those thorns are NASTY! Even with the swag, the volume on top of the arbour has grown, because it's not easy to work with the stuff up there because of the thick tangle of older canes - not to mention at least three different clematises... I am concerned at this point that ND will bring down the arbour/south alley gate if we don't do something about it! So it's time to clear the slate an start again. My advice is only go for it if you've got an appropriate set-up to control it and are willing to be diligent in controlling it (which we weren't for the first few years, and then it was too late...) Given our experience I really think the appropriate place for ND is trained along a relatively low fence (4' or so); tie it in to the fence as if the fence was a swag. A low fence would make it easy to work with it - as opposed to needing a stepladder in the case of an arbour. Good luck....See MoreVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
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